Rust spots on yoke I cannot remove

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Hey guys I am looking for some insight and wisdom on how to remove tough rust spots on the yoke of a blued smith. I normally have used 0000 steel wool and some gun oil on other revolvers and it has come off very easily but these spots on the yoke will not lighten up. It is very minimal and I am starting to wonder if it even is rust. I just do not want to remove anything else besides the red.



I started collecting older smiths a few years ago so I probably need some experience and knowledge from some more seasoned collectors/shooters. Thank you for any help.


Jeff
 

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Yeah that was hard to see. I went in and added some arrows so I could pinpoint the spots. Thank you for your help.
 

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What is in the groove of the gas ring may be copper. The other small dot may be rust. If it doesn't come off easily it is in the metal, not on top of the bluing. Quit trying or you will remove the bluing which is nothing more than "fancy rust", Iron oxide!
 
The bit of copper looking color at the point where the tube attaches to the crane is just about for sure residue from where it was joined together during the process of manufacture. The other bit of color that appears to be rust is best defined as IDK. While I have noted something similar on other S&W revolvers, it was so occasional that I never gave it any thought. None of my currently owned S&W revolvers display such an oddity. Worn finish, scuffs on the side of a hammer, bent rear sight, mismatched grips, etc., but no bits of possible rust. HTH. Sincerely. bruce.
 
I'd think the copper color is from the joining of the tube to the yoke during mfg'r.
Guessing,,but likely done with Braze and induction coil heat set up.
The process takes only a couple seconds.
The ring of copper is the tiny amt of excess solder if you can even call it that that accumulates at the visible part of the joint.

The small patch of copper color away from the joint is likely from spatter when the joint was soldered.

Just my guess of course, but that's what it all looks like judging from what I've seen done and have done on other firearms.

The copper color comes from the clean up of the brazed joint after the process which is usually done with an acid. (HCL).
The brass Brazing alloy is primarily Copper & Zinc . The clean-up soak in the weak acid wash and rinse leaches the zinc in the alloy out of the very surface of the Braze and leaves it with just the copper color look.

Brazed joints for attachments in other firearms assemblys that have gone thru bluing, CCH, or some other finishing processes usualy show as copper colored joinings as well.

FWIW..
The CCH people sometimes will refuse to do a part that shows a Brazed joint.
The Brazed joint will hold up OK thru CCH, the heat will not effect it. But some purveyors say the small amt of copper in the case hardening 'box' ruins the both the box and the finish being done to the other parts in it.
..and then some others say it doesn't and simply CCH the parts as if the Brazed joint isn't a factor in anything.

Best to ask the shop if it's an issue before sending in assemblys if you know there are any Brazed joints in the part(s).
Hard Solder (High Temp Silver Solder) will NOT hold up thru most CCH processes. The solder will melt just at or below the CCH temp.

I had a Colt SAA engraving project CCH where the gold rire border inlay 'melted' during the process.
Just in one spot on the frame. That was strange.

It turned out that the gold wire didn't melt (24k). What happened was that the gold wire I was using had a soldered joint in it's length. When wire of specific dia is supplied to the trade, it is 'drawn' to dia thru a series of small hole dies down to the required dia. Sometimes the wire breaks duing the process and the ends are soldered back together with special alloy 'gold solder' in this instance. Low temp compared to the melt temp of the base metal (24k).
Then the with with the solder joint redrawn again and the solder joint blends right into the continuous length of wire.

When it went thru the near 1500F of CCH,,that solder joint alone melted.
With some extra work, all was made good again.

Sorry for the story time post.
 
A patch soaked in Kroil and wrapped around whatever will remove most rust in a few days.
As posted, do not think you have a rust problem.
 
2152HQ

I'd think the copper color is from the joining of the tube to the yoke during mfg'r.
Guessing,,but likely done with Braze and induction coil heat set up.
The process takes only a couple seconds.
The ring of copper is the tiny amt of excess solder...

Thank you for this informative comment.
I learn something every day.
What did you mean by saying, "Sorry for the story time post"?

Thank you and kind regards!
BrianD
 
Hey guys I am looking for some insight and wisdom on how to remove tough rust spots on the yoke of a blued smith. I normally have used 0000 steel wool and some gun oil on other revolvers and it has come off very easily but these spots on the yoke will not lighten up. It is very minimal and I am starting to wonder if it even is rust. I just do not want to remove anything else besides the red.



I started collecting older smiths a few years ago so I probably need some experience and knowledge from some more seasoned collectors/shooters. Thank you for any help.


Jeff

First, get rid of all your STEEL WOOL
At the risk of disclosing my own obsessive tendencies I saw what you were seeing. Try the tip of a bamboo skewer dipped in mineral oil, the bamboo will keep you from damaging steel and the rust (if it is) will become the abrasive.
 
Are you aware that BOILING a rusted part in water for 45 minutes to an hour will caused a chemical reaction where the red rust is converted to Black Oxide (another name for Bluing).

You have a very simple solution that is easy. Take a pot that your better half won't care if you boil gun parts with it or just purchase a new one at Walfart, fill it with water, they boil your part for as long as the part remains fully submerged in that water. BTW larger pots allow for a longer boil, think nice big pots for boiling noodles. After the boiling cycle you can lightly clean the "dust" off the part with some 0000 bronze wool or a very fine bristled bronze brush. If those are not available in your area get the "hardest" toothbrush you can go to your local pharmacy and scrub vigorously with that nylon brush. Note I usually buy these in the bulk packs because they are just so handy for cleaning in the nooks and crannies.
 
Agree with most - that is not rust and merely some reaction to manufacturing. Examine rust with a magnifier and you will see that it is not smooth - more like a textured coating.
 
Thank you for this informative comment.
I learn something every day.
What did you mean by saying, "Sorry for the story time post"?

Thank you and kind regards!
BrianD

I have a habit of wandering off subject and adding more info to the response than is relevent to it,,,story time stuff.
Makes for extra long postings
 
Wow thank you all for your inputs. I do not mind a lengthy post, I get to learn so much about the manufacturing process of these beautiful guns and it is quite fascinating. I am gonna reread what you guys have posted and take it to heart. I am definitely going to come to the forums for more future questions.


Thank you for everyone's time,



Jeff
 
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Lazy me, I would just hit it with a black Sharpie. You can remove the excess with a Q-Tip and acetone. I doubt I'd worry too much, but I also understand wanting it gone. It wouldn't be a deal buster if that's the only marks on the gun. Keep it oiled lightly, maybe.
 
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