S&W 1917?
- Thread starter TazTJ
- Start date
Yes, this is called a "fouling cup".
amazingflapjack
US Veteran
That one gets my vote.
Finally got to shoot this today. Trigger was very stiff in DA and even SA, but I put 5 out of 6 in the same hole at 10 yds in single action and got a nice clusters at 10 yds in double action. I put my Koa Magna's on it from my 27-2, but they didn't feel as good as they do on the 27-2 for some reason, so I am currently looking for new, slim grips for this. I backed out the strain screw and that made the trigger 1000% times better, but I want to make sure it's reliable, too.
Definitely enjoyed the 45 in the revolver, I will start looking for a 4 or 5" used S&W 45 acp now as well! The sights were a real struggle for me, but it was still a ton of fun shooting a revolver that is nearly 100 years old!
Definitely enjoyed the 45 in the revolver, I will start looking for a 4 or 5" used S&W 45 acp now as well! The sights were a real struggle for me, but it was still a ton of fun shooting a revolver that is nearly 100 years old!
Got moon clips in, got my Lewis Lead Remove 45 upgrade, got a WonderSight for it and even got an old pair of Eagle smooth Rosewood grips for it 
Time to go shooting, been loading ammo into the moon clips the last few days to prepare!
Time to go shooting, been loading ammo into the moon clips the last few days to prepare!I also did a new reduced power Wilson Main Spring and 13# rebound spring. Lots of light strikes, so I went to the Brownells reduced power MS and 14# rebound spring. Only a handful of light strikes, but with both setups, I noticed that the trigger would often lock after it moved around 1/8 to the rear, often after the first shot. Something internally was locking up, but I am not sure why? It's like when you squeeze the trigger back with the side plate off and the pieces aren't sitting flush and the gun locks up and the trigger and hammer will not pivot. Opening the cylinder and closing it doesn't do anything, and I can usually cock the hammer back into Single Action, but I feel weird drag internally when I do so. Played with different combinations of rebound and main springs and didn't find a combo that works yet. The WonderSight and new grips worked well, but trying to reduce the trigger pull, which was stupidly heavy, is still an ongoing issue.
The factory MS is nearly flat, the Brownells has a little curve to it at the top where it hooks into the stirrup and the Wilson has a huge curve at the top. With the strain screw locked down on the Wilson, the hammer will not lock back into Single Action, but if I back off the strain screw (I know, a no no!), it will lock back in Single Action.
Any ideas??
The factory MS is nearly flat, the Brownells has a little curve to it at the top where it hooks into the stirrup and the Wilson has a huge curve at the top. With the strain screw locked down on the Wilson, the hammer will not lock back into Single Action, but if I back off the strain screw (I know, a no no!), it will lock back in Single Action.
Any ideas??
I went back to the original springs and still noticed the binding issue, which was hidden by the very heavy trigger pull. When the cylinder is swung out of the frame, the whole cylinder can move back and forth at least 1/32", maybe almost 1/16". When the cylinder is closed, it only moves back and forth slightly, but when it's forward, it's rubbing on the forcing cone. Is this endshake and should I order the shims/bearings for it or does it need to go to a Gunsmith?
That much movement is excessive, IMO. The binding could be caused by the cylinder/forcing cone contact. You can try to see if pulling the cylinder rearward while you pull the trigger reduces or eliminates the binding. That would indicate you need some endshake bearings or other work. But, I suggest you find a good gunsmith. Endshake bearings are cheap, but that may not be all that's going on. I'd have it checked out by an expert.
I tried pushing the cylinder forward and it was binding. Pushing it backwards also got it to bind, but not as much. Tried the same pushes with my other S&W's, no binding. Cleaned the cylinder face, saw some rub marks on the face of the cylinder. Looking at the forcing cone, it may not be flat, it may angle up towards the cylinder face at the very top, so I will be bringing it to a gunsmith to check out.
I tried shooting it with and w/o moon clips and it bound up both ways.
I tried shooting it with and w/o moon clips and it bound up both ways.
I have seen massive endshake cause just that binding in at least one otherwise pristine 1917 so I think it was pretty common for those guns.
Lots of endshake washers is the quick and easy fix, otherwise some more advanced smithing is needed.
Lots of endshake washers is the quick and easy fix, otherwise some more advanced smithing is needed.
Based on the butt markings it is definitely a Model 1917 with a replaced barrel. Since it is not date stamped on the left frame I would think that the work was not done at the factory, however, the diamond and the addition of the post WW2 4 line address say otherwise. It is possible that they merely forgot to stamp the date on the frame after the work was done. Also possible that the gun was reworked by a factory employee and he therefore was not required to stamp it for his own modifications.
As is said many times, "if only they could talk."
As is said many times, "if only they could talk."
Big Cholla
Member
Re the trigger 'binding' up and failing to return easily. IMHO, you should have your pistolsmith look carefully at the fit of the cylinder's extractor star for correct fitment. This handgun has obviously been extensively refitted with many parts and the cylinder or the hand or both could have been changed. What I think you are describing is incorrect fitting of the portion of the extractor star that allows the hand to pass by thereby freeing the trigger to complete the stroke and return to its forward position after the cylinder is indexed and locked by the cylinder stop for the next shop. IMHO, the hand is dragging on that protrusion. It is a relatively easy fix by a knowledgeable pistolsmith.
Trigger going forward isn't an issue. It stops and drags while I am squeezing the trigger back. The trigger will sometimes move back around 1/8" or so and then lock up tight. Releasing the trigger all the way forward often will not release the trigger fully. If it's locked up, I can manually cock the hammer back, but I feel extra resistance as I am cocking the hammer back. Other times, the trigger binds and if I apply more pressure, sometimes it releases and continues its rearward motion. Other times, as I am squeezing the trigger back, I feel the trigger pull weight increasing like there is something rubbing or extra friction.
THE PILGRIM
Member
Nice find!
The grips alone would make me want to buy it!
The grips alone would make me want to buy it!
Drag marks on the front of the cylinder indicate endshake and will also nearly bind up a double action revolver. Correct the endshake, then check for a clearance of at least .004 in the B/C gap. If this does not correct the binding, then you have another issue, but at least one suspect out of the way.
I decided to try the endshake bearings. Got the tool and shims/bearings from Midway. Only bound up once (but it was fixed by opening/closing the cylinder, which didn't use to work) out of 36 rds and that was on a Rimz moonclip, which had some flashing on it.
