S&W 28 hammer spring replacement

[Simone]

Hello, i'd like to buy an improved spring from Wolff for the hammer of my Smith & Wesson 28. Before to order it my question is: to replace this spring have i to remove also the sideplate or remove only the grips is enough to do this job?
Thanks for your support.
Simone

 

[UncleEd]

Remove the sideplate.

 

[k22fan]

You have to remove the side plate. A lighter mainspring is not necessarily an improvement. A Wolf mainspring gave me missfires in double action. I did not want to limit the revolver to Federal primes so I went back to a factory mainspring. However, I routinely use Wolff's lighter rebound or trigger return springs. They lighten the trigger pull more than a lighter mainspring does and do so without affecting ignition. It's best to buy the pack of various strength rebound springs so you can experiment. They do slow trigger return so you would not be able to keep up with Jerry M. with one installed.

On the other hand, if you are not comfortable removing the side plate I'd leave good enough alone. If you do open it up only use a carefully chosen flat head screw driver and do not pry the side plate up. To raise the side plate tap the grip frame with something like a plastic screw driver handle.

 

[Gene L]

Have to remove the sideplates AND the stocks.

 

[gmborkovic]

I think just remove the grips and remove strain screw. Without a lot of cussing , you should be able to remove the spring from the hammer stirrup. And replace.

 

[Simone]

Thanks for your indications. I think for me is better to adjust the original spring using the adjustment screw without replace it. Also for me is not good to limit my revolver to fire only with a specific brand of primers. My revolver must shoot (almost) every ammo in every moment.
ciao
Simone

 

[muddocktor]

I always have taken off the sideplate when I replace the mainspring. I don't know if you can do it without removing the sideplate. Sorry that I can't be more help on it. BTW, with the Power Rib mainsprings of Wolff, I've only used the type 1 (standard power) springs, as I've found that the strain screw goes into the power rib and lightens the trigger already when using a stock strain screw.

 

[UncleEd]

Simone,

The strain screw (adjustment screw) if loosened
then may in time work itself out a little farther
and cause misfires. But it has been done many
times, those many times including old timers like
the well-known writer Skeeter Skelton. A half turn
or one turn often does the job.

Right now, I think your facing the "unknown" has
you reluctant to remove the side plate. But if you
do, and have a schematic handy (available on
internet) you'll find the mechanism not all that
complicated.

It will also give you a chance to "wash" out the
inside with a gun scrubber and then oil a tiny
bit.

Obtaining a proper fitting screw driver to remove
the side plate screws is your only problem but
easily solved. Unless, of course, you run into a
"frozen" screw so tough to move that you face
ruining the screw head.

Earlier advice that if the gun is working fine, it
still is best to leave everything alone and just
enjoy the firearm.

 

[gmborkovic]

Simone, I just noticed you are new to the Forum and from my favorite country in Europe, Italia! I lived in your country back in the 90s working for the State Police and Military. I lived right in the quarters with the officers.
Ate and drank like a king.We drank homemade Grappa. I do miss that time. Best, Mike

 

[Simone]

Simone,

The strain screw (adjustment screw) if loosened
then may in time work itself out a little farther
and cause misfires. But it has been done many
times, those many times including old timers like
the well-known writer Skeeter Skelton. A half turn
or one turn often does the job.

Right now, I think your facing the "unknown" has
you reluctant to remove the side plate. But if you
do, and have a schematic handy (available on
internet) you'll find the mechanism not all that
complicated.

It will also give you a chance to "wash" out the
inside with a gun scrubber and then oil a tiny
bit.

Obtaining a proper fitting screw driver to remove
the side plate screws is your only problem but
easily solved. Unless, of course, you run into a
"frozen" screw so tough to move that you face
ruining the screw head.

Earlier advice that if the gun is working fine, it
still is best to leave everything alone and just
enjoy the firearm.

Dear Ed, yes i'm scared to remove side plate because i find this revolver in mint conditions in his original box just one month ago. You can see it in my last post here:

Smith & Wesson 28 blueing wear

It is really too perfect to risk to damage the screws.
So if the job was possible only removing grips i can try to do it, otherwise i prefer to wait when the revolver will be more used.
The original position of the strain screw was with head almost aligned with the frame. Now is out of the frame but i have to measure how protrudes. Anyway, also looesening the screw i don't have yet missfire.
I update you soon, tomorrow here is holiday and i go to the range to try it.
ciao!

 

[Narragansett]

I f you intend to shoot the gun, then by all means do so. After you have put 10 thousand rounds through it, you may not feel the same way about changing parts. Use will make it smoother. At some point you will have to remove the side plate for lubrication. Make sure you have the right HOLLOW ground screwdrivers. Brownell's in the USA makes a 4 bit screwdriver set just for smith and wesson type screws. I recommend it. You use hollow ground screwdrivers so that the torque on the screw is at the bottom of the slot, not the top

 

[monsai52]

Also, after you've removed the screws, don't try to pry off the side plate with a screwdriver, just tap the frame with a hard plastic or rawhide hammer and the side plate will pop loose.

Best regards,

 

[Jim Watson]

Loosen the strain screw before you take off the side plate, so as to not have spring pressure against the hammer pin with only one end supported.

 

[Muley Gil]

Also, after you've removed the screws, don't try to pry off the side plate with a screwdriver, just tap the frame with a hard plastic or rawhide hammer and the side plate will pop loose.

Best regards,

monsal is referring to the GRIP frame.

 

[Drm50]

I have never had to replace a main spring in a N frame but have had many apart for other reasons. I have replaced mains in a dozen or more K frames and only take off the grips and back out the strain screw. You are going to have to do that anyway. Never knew I was doing it wrong. I avoid taking side plates of any S&W unless necessary. Seen many that had been pryed off because bubba didn't know what he was doing. I put an after market main in a 19 for a guy. Brand unknown, he bought it at a show as a target style spring for light SA trigger pull. It was light, to light. Certain ammo it would light strike. It wouldn't fire CCI 550 primers 50% of the time. Gun shot all over the place and that spring was the cause. Later I had this happen to myself with a used 19 but due to the experience I knew what it was. Put in a stock spring and no futher problems. Still have the gun and no more trouble for 30yrs.

 

[k22fan]

I admit that I never tried changing a main spring with the side plate still on. As a double action shooter I have found it smart to leave the factory main springs in the gun and removing a side plate is a quick small job so there was never any motivation to try.

Forum members disagree on the possibility of strain screws that are backed out a small amount rotating further out on their own from vibration. In my 45 years of shooting S&W revolvers that has not happened. Normal mainspring pressure acts like a lock washer on the screw. Consequently I never shorten the screw. However, a very light mainspring that was adjusted to only set of Federal primes or was adjusted for the lightest single action pull with disregard to reliable double action ignition might not put enough pressure on the strain screw to act as a lock washer.

One final thought. Trigger pull weight is like the weight of your hiking boots. If you wear those boots most of the time then when you go hiking their weight is not noticeable. If you wear light shoes when you are not hiking then when you hike the boots feel like lead weights. Practice with a normal trigger pull that sets off all brands of primer double action and its weight will not seem like an obstacle.

 

[Drm50]

Seeing as I never replaced a main in a N frame and already had side plate off maybe you do have to take plate off. No matter what my reason any time I pull side plate, gun gets complete claning and lube before it goes back together. So I probably reassembled gun before replacing side plate.
Never really thought about it until this came up.

Main spring breakage in Ks almost always the result of guys using stain screw as agjustment. Spring is designed to take the "load" with screw tight. A big change will change and crystallize spring causing breakage.

 

[Simone]

Simone, I just noticed you are new to the Forum and from my favorite country in Europe, Italia! I lived in your country back in the 90s working for the State Police and Military. I lived right in the quarters with the officers.
Ate and drank like a king.We drank homemade Grappa. I do miss that time. Best, Mike

Thanks, i sent you a message.

 

[H Richard]

Just remember the strain screw in "not" an adjustment screw, and is designed to be kept fully tightened. An action job may include slightly shortening the tip of the strain screw then fully tightening it again. Only an experienced armorer should do this.

I also have fond memories of days spent in Italy, Rome, Tuscany, Pizza, Florence, Venice. My wife really wants to return to Venice.