S&W 3000 Pump Shotgun

dek

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I'm trying to change the fore-end on my 3000 pump. In order to take the fore-end tube out of the fore-end, I first have to unscrew the fore-end nut. My problem is the nut will not turn. I've dropped kroil in the threads with no help. I put it in the freezer for a couple of hours, no help. I'd apply heat but that would burn the wood fore-end. Where these loctited when originally assembled? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Dennis
 
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3000

I'm trying to change the fore-end on my 3000 pump. In order to take the fore-end tube out of the fore-end, I first have to unscrew the fore-end nut. My problem is the nut will not turn. I've dropped kroil in the threads with no help. I put it in the freezer for a couple of hours, no help. I'd apply heat but that would burn the wood fore-end. Where these loctited when originally assembled? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Dennis

These are very similar to a Rem 870 and no the end cap was not originally loctited. I suspect dried oil and I use a set of rubber lined pliers specifically used to remove mag end caps I got from Brownells years ago when I was an LEO armorer.
 
Removal of the action bar tube from the wood requires a special "spanner" wrench or a home made tool.

Here's what the wrench looks like:
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=723227

You can make a substitute from a piece of 1/8" thick plate steel. Cut a length that will fit between the two notches in the tube nut, and grip with Vise-Grips to unscrew the nut.

WARNING: Some people have had luck using needle-nose pliers as a spanner. This only works on nuts that are loose enough to break loose.
Problem is, slip with the pliers, and the very thin action bar tube threads are seriously damaged and this requires a new action bar tube.

Best advice: Buy a spanner wrench, borrow one at a gun shop, or make one from plate steel.
 
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