S&W 500 Reloading Ranier

[sturtyboy]

I've loaded 2k plus .500 mag. I tried to be economical and use plated bullets and discovered they jump the groove no matter how tight I crimp them.

I load full power loads in the .44 and .500. I just don't see why you tame them way down and waste all that money and time to watch the bullet fall out of the end of the barrel. I bought these calibers to experience the benefits of them... back to your loading problems.

So in my experience all the plated bullets jump the groove created by the crimp the 3rd - 4th round. I use only jacketed bullets now.

For economical jacketed loading, I use Zero jacketed at a great price. (as good if not better than plated pricing,) followed by Hornady, and Sierra jacketed.

I'm almost out of plated bullets and I use them for my .44 auto.
500's are all gone ....jacketed only for me on these big jumper revolvers

 

[rpollard01]

I know they have found elevated levels of lead in the brain along with fluoride and other heavy metals in the brain in Alzheimer's patience after death. This was from brain surgeon reports.
I will take another look at the information I have received here and consider using them based on what you guys said.
I like the idea of the coated in which I saw during research but didn't see anything but 700 gr available.
I do realize there is definitely a political agenda behind lead bullets if not for any other reason, they want to use tat to ban them.
But, finally, someone that has found some jacketed that's not more expensive than factory rounds.
Thanks sturtyboy go the tip. Why is it so difficult to get this kind of information I wonder?
Thanks guys!

 

[Sevens]

You didn't get the information you seek because it seemingly doesn't exist. He (generally) uses Zero jacketed bullets because Zero makes low-cost and bulk available jacketed bullets -- in popular sizes and weight that the masses use, and of course that doesn't include .500 S&W Magnum because folks don't plink with X-frames.

Zero doesn't make the magic, cheap bullet that you insist you must have.

If you sold your S&W .500 Magnum and bought a Model 10, you could buy many years worth of jacketed bullets and make your handloads for a pittance.

Every contributor to this discussion bends over to help but you seem no further along than you were in post #1. Can't say we haven't tried our best.

 

[rpollard01]

@Sevens,

I really do not understand why I caused hostility with you. I don't see where you believe you got no where... I did say I was going to take a second look at lead. And I don't recall saying the information doesn't exist.
Why, if this is common knowledge, did you not tell me about it??? I somehow rubbed you the wrong way and you pretty much went hostile from that point out. I believe it was was earlier on when I said something negative about lead. Not sure.
Anyway, you are wrong about people not plinking with X Frames. I have talked with dozens of people that do and use Ranier and Berry's to do it. I'm not wanting to be a part of an elite club that turns their nose up at cheap because of what frame S&W builds the gun on. I just wanted some guidance from people whom I thought would willingly give it because they remember how they once knew nothing and wanted help.
Thank you for what you did give and thank everyone else for all your help. I guess I just asked way too much and seemingly did not appreciate it.
I don't care much for going through this every time I ask a question. I'll find another forum one day or build my own.

 

[Sevens]

Did the dozens of people that you spoke to refuse to help? Where are they?

 

[gwpercle]

You are way, WAY off base in the health risks and concerns regarding lead and especially lead bullets. I could tell you how and why, but your mind seems made up. You should research this subject-- the education may be enlightening.

I asked my doctor about testing for lead ....he tells me " the dangers have been blown all out of proportion to the reality of it. Do you put them in your mouth? I said No "...he declined to do a test , called it unnecessary ! He told me "don't chew on or eat cast bullets and wash your hands after casting or shooting "...I'll go with the doctors advice .
Gary

 

[muddocktor]

BTW, the Missouri Bullet Co coated bullet I am talking about is a 400 grain hard cast Hi-Tek coated bullet and they have them listed for around $55 per 200 bullets. Not quite as cheap as the Ranier bullet but still loads cheaper than a Hornady or other jacketed bullet and they have a proper crimp groove on them too. And it looks like it would make a good hunting bullet too. Here is a link to the bullet for you. <<<LINK to .500 bullet>>>

 

[rpollard01]

@Sevens,
Please point out in my response that addressed only you where I said no one helped. In contrast to what you implied, I thanked everyone including you for their help.
If you don't like helping me out, you don't have to say a word. I still appreciate the useful information you gave but just like their were hostile responses when I first posted about buying one, I'm getting this same negative feedback from you. Still do not know why.
Is it because I would like to have an economical practice time at the range and am researching if anyone knows about such economical options. Or, could it be I was negative about lead poisoning. That's all I can come up with. Anyway, thanks for your help!

 

[rpollard01]

@muddocktor,

Awesome. Thanks for the pointer. For higher quality, that's reasonably priced. Just calculated out to $.027 per round. That's the same price range as Berry's.

Excellent find!

Thanks!

 

[Sevens]

You are absolutely welcome. I come to these pages to help AND to learn, apologies if you are finding hostility.

Please take heed to my post #9 about the construction of and abilitiy of low-cost bullets to handle the extreme pressure that the .500 S&W Magnum is capable of producing.

 

[rpollard01]

@Sevens,

Thank you!

The research I did before buying the 500 was intense and deep. I heavily research things like this. I knew that going from a 9mm to a S&W 500 Magnum was going to be a leap.
This forum helped guide me on the right path and with all the research I did, and with all the information I got from this forum, I made a great choice in the final 500 model I bought. It is the 3.5" PC and I love it.

I won't bore you with the details of how I went from the lowest recoil factory round to a pretty hot (1801 ft/s) round, but it was awesome!

I re-read your post and will heed your advice. I never meant to lead you to believe I was going to try to squeeze out enormous velocity out of these rounds. This was more so to get a 1500+ ft/s thrill and learn to reload a difficult to load round.

This part of your post
"I see no reason whatsoever to be concerned with what you see (or think you see) in a primer unless/until it is leaking.

Agree with mikld above that regardless of what Ranier says, these are not optimum bullets for a .500 S&W Magnum. They should be used for light target only... keeping in mind that at much lower speeds, you may find yourself needing to adjust sight elevation just to get them on target."

and especially the first sentence was extremely helpful. I was told by an RSO the primer was coming out to far and I should be cautious.

I completely agree... These bullets are NOT optimum for the 500. I knew that going into it. But, as I said, I want to practice reloading and make sure I have all the tools necessary and few rounds under my belt before taking on the heavy loads like I shot with the Magtech...

Thank you kindly!

 

[Wise_A]

(1) Don't lick the bullets for flavor, maybe think about wearing some nitrile gloves while reloading, limit indoor range use, and wash your hands with cold water after shooting. Dose makes poison. Most of the people with adverse health conditions from lead exposure spent a lot of time in lead-soaked environments--professional rangemasters, for instance.

(2) If you want cheaper .500 Mags, cast lead is the way to go. But really, .500 is expensive to shoot, and there's no getting around that.

(3) I would suggest that focusing on crimp tightness ignores the other half of the equation--where the crimp is. If you start the crimp with the case mouth all the way at the top of the groove, the crimp is formed with an enormous empty space beneath it, allowing for bullet jump. Not that I'm actually convinced you have a bullet jump problem.

(4) I highly doubt that you have any sort of an issue with the primers. My .44s loaded with WLPs get a fairly "dished" look to them after firing, with everything from moderate to maximum loads. Protip: nobody blows more hot air than an old fart who hangs out at the range for free to minimum wage. These are the guys that couldn't get a job working at the gun shop for an at-cost gun a month.

 

[mikld]

Anything in excess, even plain water, can be harmful/toxic/or poisonous to human beings. The lead exposure from shooting or casting is infinitesimal when compared to toxic levels. I was breathing more lead from LA air than I got from casting bullets...

 

[rpollard01]

@Wise A,

(2) It sounds like cast lead or Hi-Tec cast rounds are he way to go. I am going to ry to sharpen my reloading skills by finishing up the Raniers. But will probably move to more solid rounds

(3) There is no crimp groove in these rounds. It's all smooth or somewhat smooth surface.

(4) As one previous poster indicated, no need to worry about primers until I see signs of leaking. My idea of what I would look for is burnt powder out of the primer pocket. Is this correct?
I'm learning who to listen to. I take information and after thinking about it from my perspective, I turn outwards and reach out to others to see how far off base I am.

Thank you!

 

[rpollard01]

@milkd,
That's why I have a whole house 2 stage water filtration System with an Reverse Osmosis drinking water filter. There are over 7000 chemicals/toxins, pharmaceutical drugs, etc in your drinking water. Not to mention chlorine which has been proven to cause cancer.

 

[muddocktor]

rpollard01, you will see carbon around the rim of the primer and primer pocket if you start leaking at the primer pocket. And you also might see the firing pin indentation actually blown back out with overpressure rounds. If you have a reloading manual such as the Hornady book, they should have some clear pictures of overpressured cases that have leaking primer pockets to give you a visual reference of what to look for.

 

[rpollard01]

@muddocktor,
I do have the Hornady tenth edition. I will look for that. Good detail. I'v been doing this for 2+ years and am always learning more about reloading all the time.

 

[BLUEDOT37]

rpollard0, I didn't take the time to read all the arguing back & forth but to your original question:

I use, & prefer over Berry's, Rainier's 335gr plated bullets for the moderate loads I use at the indoor range. Rainier rates them to 1500fps & in my 500ES snubby that's not a concern. They're fine for "fun time" loads. Definitely go with sometime stronger for serious loads.

Since my loads are "reduced loads" I avoid the crimping issues/concerns mentioned by deep seating the bullet to the ogive & then taper crimping onto it. I've not had any problems with the bullets jumping crimp doing it this way & I've done it this way with several different brands of plated bullets using four or five different moderate speed powders.

You might want to back off that 31gr/2400 & start with 29grs & work up if using the deep seating I mentioned.

.

Here's a thread a started some time ago:
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Range Fodder for the 500 S&W : ACME, HSM & RAINIER bullets

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[mikld]

@milkd,
That's why I have a whole house 2 stage water filtration System with an Reverse Osmosis drinking water filter. There are over 7000 chemicals/toxins, pharmaceutical drugs, etc in your drinking water. Not to mention chlorine which has been proven to cause cancer.

You missed the point; Anything, even water (filtered, bottled, spring, or Chetco River water) in excess is harmful...

 

[rpollard01]

@BlueDot37,

Good information. Just talked with a fellow at our local gun store who has been reloading for 37 years and he said to try the taper crimp versus the roll crimp. I'm going to order the Hornady taper crimp as there aren't many choices for the 500 for taper crimping. I'm currently using the RCBS 3 die set with a roll crimp. His logic was there's more surface area of the case holding on to the bullet than with a roll crimp. Makes sense.
It appears you have taken it a step further and used the ogive to help hold it in.
The OAL I got of 2.070 from Ranier along with the min/max charges. I just saw a video from Gavintoob that said the Alliant 2400 powder can be used with reduced loads.
Sounds like solid advice.

Thanks!