S&W 625 vs. S&W 325 Thunder Ranch

IanLawerence

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Hello all I am new to the world of revolvers, and this forum. I guess I woke up one day and said dang, my semi's have grown boring. I still love them but they lack something, or maybe its like my wife says I just want to justify a new presant. I own many semi's love everyone of them but they don't offer the same excitement. So my buddy who is a police officer let me shoot his Model 66 .357 magnum and I fell in love with revolvers and decided to get one now.

The two I narrowed down because I own .45ACP semi's and want to not add a new bullet to my growing inventory is the Model 625 JM and 325 Thunder Ranch. I am torn between them and was wondering if any one could help by telling me the plusses and minuses of each if anyone has any experiences with both? Or which they prefer and why? The weapon would be used for both recreation and defense. I have CCW and prefer a full sized handgun, with a 4-5in barrel. Thank you and I look forward to learning alot since this to me is a new weapon system and my apologies for being a noob if this has been asked 500 times before.
 
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I have a couple of 625's and use them a lot (my favorite two revolvers). One is a 4" JM Special and the other is a 5" model of 1989.

The 625's are not light guns. They are shooting machines, however, if you want to carry them, they are a bit heavy (not to mention bulky). If I were carrying in a duty holster, fine. Concealed carry - uh-uh (no). My CCW revolver is a 642 that I carry in a Mika pocket holster.

The 325 is still bulky, but is quite light for it's size. It is not nearly as comfortable to shoot as the 625 but makes much better sense as a carry gun.

So, I would say the 625 is a gun you shoot a lot but carry a little.

The 325 is a gun you carry a lot but shoot a little.

Just my personal take on the matter...

Dale53
 
I don't own either, but I believe the big difference is weight. For a carry gun, I would go with the 325. For a dedicated range/game gun, I would go with the 625. I don't think you can really go wrong with either.

You might want to check with the reloaders on the board. I've heard some have trouble with their auto reloads chambering in the revolver because of the small bulge at the base of the brass. I think there is a way around it (small base dies?) but you should check. Otherwise you have to keep the revolver brass away from the auto brass, which is nearly as bad as adding another caliber.
 
I have both and contrary to what others have said, the 325 Thunder Ranch is extremely comfortable to shoot at the range and even more comfortable to carry on your belt. The 625 may soak up more recoil but after a day at the range, the 325 is not going make you want to soak your hand. It's more likely that your thumb will wear out from loading moonclips than putting lead down range.

For carry, the 625 will fit all standard holsters, the 325 will not, especially if you leave the light rail attached. With the light rail removed you may find that some 625 holsters are still too tight.

If I had to keep only one it would be the 325 Thunder Ranch.
 
I don't own either, but I believe the big difference is weight. For a carry gun, I would go with the 325. For a dedicated range/game gun, I would go with the 625. I don't think you can really go wrong with either.

You might want to check with the reloaders on the board. I've heard some have trouble with their auto reloads chambering in the revolver because of the small bulge at the base of the brass. I think there is a way around it (small base dies?) but you should check. Otherwise you have to keep the revolver brass away from the auto brass, which is nearly as bad as adding another caliber.

My experience with the 625's I own and shoot has NOT born that out. I have several thousand .45 ACP cases - all shot through a 1911 and NONE of them have created a problem. I have three different 1911 platforms, so have a small cross section to talk about. Properly loaded .45 ACP cases do not bulge cases to a point that they become a problem.

I suspect that you are thinking about brass used in a Glock. They have had some case bulging problems and also a 1911 which has had "bubba gunsmithing" done could present the same problem. However, GOOD guns on the 1911 platform present NO such problems, in my experience.

In fact, the 625's I and a couple of friends have, are some of the easiest firearms to "feed" that we have seen. The relative small capacity of the case limits the amount of room that the powder has to "move around" and seems to add to the accuracy quotient. I run the same loads in the same cases loaded the same way in both my pistols and revolvers.


FWIW
Dale53
 
I love my 625-4, but I would never carry a .45 wheelgun for CCW.

These things are great range and competition guns and they are adequate for home defense IMO.

Forget the 325, the lightweight, yet big frame takes the fun out of shooting this round. The steel frame 625 absorbs the recoil superbly and the 325 is too big to conceal comfortably anyway.
Personally, I prefer the pre-lock 625 or the almighty 25-2. Quality revolvers you can shoot all day long.
 
625 v 325 Thunder Ranch

I own both a 625 4 inch "Model of 1988," and the new Thunder Ranch. I echo all that folks have opined; but, for me, what makes the most sense is I carry a stainless Colt Government Model on my dominant hip and the 325 will ride on the non-dominant hand hip in about six months, when my Milt Sparks IWB holster comes in. The reasons for this curious arrangement (see Clint Smith's article in American Handgunner March/April 2010, p. 28) is that I don't have a non-dominant hand safety on the Government Model; and, am able to use my left hand independently of my right. As the manual of arms is different, I use the Smith as a non-dominant handgun; therefore, don't have to worry about making the Colt any more complicated. Until I get my left forearm much stronger, I use Black Hills .45 Auto Rim with a 255 gr. LSWC on HKS speedloaders (hope to convert to Double Tap 255 gr. .45 Auto Rim when left arm strong enough).

Also, you get a much finer trigger pull on the Model 325 Thunder Ranch (Performance Center prepared) than the stock 625 (had to have Andy Cannon work on my 625 to give it a great trigger pull).

Go with the 325, you won't look back.

What I don't know is the longevity of the 325 Thunder Ranch compared to the 625; the 625 is a workhorse!

Ric
 
I have a 625. It's a good gun. I'd probably get the 325 over the 625 due to the extra features.
 
I have the older 4" blued steel Thunder Ranch Model 22 which I consider a treasure and a beauty - excepting the dreaded Lock Hole (IL). It fits the ******* rig I bought for my 329PD. Carries OK, shoots well. Whatever the model, .45ACP in a revo is a neat trick. Plastic moon clips can ease the moonie blues.
 
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Great information, since I am new to revolvers what is the trigger pull like on these two weapons, I keep reading alot of people had there 625's worked on to have a better trigger pull. Is this a necessity? I would only be shooting DA and this is not a tourniment gun but a defensive one because I read that you can have the trigger lightend too much for matches. That being said who would you all recommend for defensive trigger work? One more question with the 325 since this has a screw in barrel does this ever work loose? Thanks again for the help.
 
Great information, since I am new to revolvers what is the trigger pull like on these two weapons, I keep reading alot of people had there 625's worked on to have a better trigger pull. Is this a necessity? I would only be shooting DA and this is not a tourniment gun but a defensive one because I read that you can have the trigger lightend too much for matches. That being said who would you all recommend for defensive trigger work? One more question with the 325 since this has a screw in barrel does this ever work loose? Thanks again for the help.

+1 on Dale53s posts.

I would recommend against trigger work on a defensive gun, but if you have to, send it to the Performance Center.

Problems with the 325 mentioned in a few posts last year concerned overtightening of the barrels at the factory resulting in some cracked frames. I believe they have these issues worked out now.

Certainly, the 325 would make a better carry gun, and it's not too likely that you'll wear it out anytime soon. I have the 325 Nightguard with 2 1/2" barrel and it is a handful to shoot, but not really any moreso than a K frame .357. It makes a great carry piece though; easy to conceal, lightweight, but powerful. The TR 325 is a very versatile gun and I'm sure easier to shoot well with the longer tube.
 
Although the TR is pricey, I think it is well worth the investment. Shooting at the range with various high quality loads, I found the TR to be more "snappy" than "painful", and had no problem going through 100+ rounds in a given afternoon without any type of physical distress.

While many forum members have crafted some ingenious moon clip devices, I splurged and bought a great mc loader/unloader for $35 that makes life easy with the TR. Admittedly, carrying around three fully stocked moon clips for the TR can be a bit on the heavy side, thus it is not my primary carry pistol. Also as previously mentioned, finding a holster that fits the TR isn't easy.

IMHO, the comparison between the 625 and TR is similar to comparing a 4" 629 and a Mountain Lite (44 special). The biggest difference comes in the weight dept. as both are capable shooters with larger caliber rounds.

One other issue you may or may not consider is resale value. Both the 625s and TRs appear to retain their used values fairly well, though the TRs seem to have a bit more upside due to their limited production #s.
 
I just started carrying a S&W 25-14 .45 revolver in a OWB Simply Rugged Sourdough Pancake holster. I have been carrying it for two weeks mostly in shorts and untucked t-shirts and not had an issue with printing or properly concealing. I have about 120 rounds through it so far and feel pretty confident in it and my ability to handle it. I would not be worried about carrying the properly outfitted rig in a .45 revolver that you have practiced with.
 
My experience with the 625's I own and shoot has NOT born that out. I have several thousand .45 ACP cases - all shot through a 1911 and NONE of them have created a problem. I have three different 1911 platforms, so have a small cross section to talk about. Properly loaded .45 ACP cases do not bulge cases to a point that they become a problem.

I suspect that you are thinking about brass used in a Glock. They have had some case bulging problems and also a 1911 which has had "bubba gunsmithing" done could present the same problem. However, GOOD guns on the 1911 platform present NO such problems, in my experience.

In fact, the 625's I and a couple of friends have, are some of the easiest firearms to "feed" that we have seen. The relative small capacity of the case limits the amount of room that the powder has to "move around" and seems to add to the accuracy quotient. I run the same loads in the same cases loaded the same way in both my pistols and revolvers.


FWIW
Dale53


I'm the other side of that coin. I have 3 1911 Kimbers and an M&P 45.

3kimbers.jpg


I keep the brass separate between the auto's and the 625-3, 625-10 & the 25-2.

10-10-06006.jpg


One of the best features of these revolvers is how fast they will reload. The last thing I want in a match is a tight fit when trying to do a fast reload.

I may have to get a 325 TR pretty soon, I just need to convince my wife to part with the funds.
 
I have been carrying 3" and 4" full lug 625s concealed for quite a few years now. There is nothing difficult about it when the right holster is used.

I have no use for an alloy framed revolver because it doesn't hold up as well and the recoil is more severe. Extensive use will likely require its needing to be sent back to the factory for service.

I have reloaded and fired tens of thousands of rounds of .45 ACP in brass that I found at the range. I do not have problems with brass that has been shot out of a 1911 or Glock 21 or whatever. Never.

Anybody can perform an action job on a S&W revolver by carefully bending the mainspring and shortening the rebound spring. You do not need any aftermarket parts. You should be able to reduce the pull somewhat and still be able to fire all the harder commercial primers with complete reliability.

Dave Sinko
 
Great information, since I am new to revolvers what is the trigger pull like on these two weapons, I keep reading alot of people had there 625's worked on to have a better trigger pull. Is this a necessity? I would only be shooting DA and this is not a tourniment gun but a defensive one because I read that you can have the trigger lightend too much for matches. That being said who would you all recommend for defensive trigger work? One more question with the 325 since this has a screw in barrel does this ever work loose? Thanks again for the help.

Love my 625JM what a shooter!! I changed the rebound spring to 13# wolf spring kit, didnt change the main spring and what a nice trigger, just right for me. No big deal to do it yourself.
 
Great choice for caliber!!! Endless speculation about 'which platform' to use it in.

The odds are you will find reason to acquire more than 'just 1' revolver.

"so many guns.....so little time".....
 
A different Thunder Ranch (22-4)

I have the older 4" blued steel Thunder Ranch Model 22 which I consider a treasure and a beauty - excepting the dreaded Lock Hole (IL). It fits the ******* rig I bought for my 329PD. Carries OK, shoots well. Whatever the model, .45ACP in a revo is a neat trick. Plastic moon clips can ease the moonie blues.

Another vote for this Thunder Ranch version, especially since you are looking at recreation and defense. I took mine to the range this morning, running 65 rounds thru it single action, and another 50 double action. All was at 10 yards. The 65 single action rounds all went into one hole about 2.5 inches in diameter...the quicker fired double action all stayed in about 5 inches...all dead on, center of aim. It's a much better shooter than a favorite Mountain Gun I comfortably carried concealed in an IWB years ago, before I went to SIGs on the job. This one shoots so well I've ordered another Sparks IWB for it. The nice thing is it only weighs 4oz more than my wife's 3" M64. I know they are not in current production but there are lots of them out there NIB. I almost got a 625 JM when I decided on this and I think I made the right choice. Had it been strictly a range gun the JM would probably have been my choice. This one is a pleasure to carry, shoot and, IMO, even looks better. Has the "hole" but the plug's on the way.
 
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I shoot 3 625's, in .45 ACP. A 625 Mountain gun. a model 1988 in 5 inch and a model 1989 in 4 inch.

My Dillon just spits out the .45 ACp rounds and I use them in the .45 ACP chosen for the day which also includes several 1911 style pistols.

I don't seperate the brass the loaded rounds either go into a moon clip or a magazine. No problems so far.
 
Hello I wanted to thank everyone for there help in helping me with this question. I actually purchased a 325 Thunder Ranch and the guy asked me if I was interested in a .357. I said sure and because the market in my area is such that no one around here wants a "wheel" gun any more and it has been sitting in his used gun cabinet for months, he offered me a 681 for $150, has minor scratches on it since it was an old Police Dept gun, but other than that its in perfect working condition. So I got that as well, since the 625 remains ever ellusive in my neck of the woods.

I actually like the feel of the 681 and the action is alot smoother than the 325TR.

Oh I will post pics tommorow once my wife gives me the camera back. But again thanks for the insight and help with this question.
 
681 and 325 TR

Here are the two pictures, cannot wait to go to the range this Friday.
 

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My 5" 625 has a DA trigger pull that is smooth as butter, and is actually more accurate than my custom accuratized 1911 (or at least I shoot it better). The 625 is a real joy to shoot, but I would not want to carry one all day. If you don't like moon clips, than 45 AR is available.
 
I will actually be going to the range this Friday when I am off and doing a small review of each. I am very interested in seeing how the 681 shoots because its trigger pull is substantially lighter than the 325TR. Granted the 681 is alot older and has been used alot more by its previous own who was law enforcement.
 
I had a 325PD, beautiful light gun. It beat the hell out of me at the range. I bought it cheap, sold it cheaper. Took a while for the skin flap on my thumb web to grow back.
Sonny
 
Hello I know I am a tad late with the review of the 325TR and 681. I shot around 200 rounds, of .45ACP. Brands consisted of Remington, Blazer ball, and lastly 230 grain Winchester Ranger hollow points. With all the rounds the recoil was actually less than my 1911's. Accuracy was around 2inches at 25 feet. I only shot it double action and only with full moon clips from Wilson Combat.

The 681 was very easy to point and shoot much like my 1911's. Being the original and since it does not have an M above the 681, this was never sent back for the recall, but for $150 while I never set out to ever get a .357 Magnum I figured what the heck sure. I am not too sure what the recall was about, some of the Police I know said they sent theres back and than they had problems. I thought about sending it back to get the recall fix for free, and to pay to get the cylinders chamfered. Does any one have any insight on this recall? I did learn that with wooden grips the 125 grain + P's are like sand paper, the grips flexed and caught the flap of the skin by my thumb, but it made for a nice blood blister. I than shot about 100, 158 grain jacketed hollow points through the weapon and it did just fine with little recoil. Accuracy good about 3-3.5 inches at 25ft.

Actually being the first two revolvers I ever owned I was more accurate in speed drill's and while taking my time aiming them than with any of the semi's I own. So with no bullets left and a bloody hand, I decided to head home. Next time I will post pics and my apologies for not having any. I am still searching for a 625 though.
 
The modification is only applicable to the 681 and 681-1 models. Check your revolver's actual model number by releasing the cylinder and looking at the inside of the frame where the yoke usually resides. It should have the model and serial number there. The serial number, written like 'AAB1XXX', obscuring the actual last three numbers, will suffice.

As far as moonclips are concerned, Ranch Products makes the units supplied with your S&W - and sold by S&W. They are pretty decent folks and will ship you 100 blued full clips for a 25/325/625 for $35 delivered. The nutdriver style demooner from Brownell's works fine, too. I love my 625JM, the second 4" 625-8 I've had - bought it when they first came out 2/05. I resprung mine with lite Wolff springs - and it gets it's own Starline brass, Federally primed, my other, ie, range sweepings brass was used for my only bottom feeder - a Marlin Camp .45 I sold years ago. I use Lee dies - including a separate seater and carbide resizer/crimper, which makes all ammo fit the 625s perfectly. I need a spare 625!

Stainz
 
i have a question about reloading for the model 22 45 acp. bought some lead round nose bullets marked .451, the correct diameter. loaded them in winchester once fired brass and they wouldnt seat in the cylinder. put the micrometer on them and discovered they were .452. had some loaded in remington brass and they worked fine. anyone else have this problem. btw they all work in my kimbers with no problem
 
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