S&W 627 Performance Center- Blood Work

S&W part number?

I found the 4" in the S&W web catalog, but the snubbie is not listed. What's the stock number? Thanks!
 
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Cougar,

On the S&W Web page look under Performance Center/Revolvers. The 627 Snubby is on the 1st page , 2nd from the bottom. Product Code is: 170133.
Carl
 
I ended up putting a set of Pachmayr K-frame Compaq grips on mine. Not the best looking but feel the best in my hand as compared to the Eagles, S&W Combats, and Spegels.

Of course I change grips like I do underwear...once a week whether I need to or not.

389935115.jpg
 
C & L,

The 627 looks great - even if you only change once a month like i do. Wife then shakes them out
Carl
 
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I ended up putting a set of Pachmayr K-frame Compaq grips on mine. Not the best looking but feel the best in my hand as compared to the Eagles, S&W Combats, and Spegels.

Of course I change grips like I do underwear...once a week whether I need to or not.

389935115.jpg
_______________________________________________________
Great looking gun.
My guns are for shooting, not collecting or show, but I do enjoy great looking grips. However, when it comes to shooting pleasure, looks come second. I have the same Pachmayr compacts on my S&W mdl. 13 (3") and on my 625 (45acp) and they are very comfortable. I also have the S&W-Hogue rubber grips they put on the 500 on my .44 and .45 Mtn Guns. Great looking they ain't, but practical in the extreme.
 
RPD20,

Nope, they are not on the website. You can call S&W Sales/Customer Service & tell them you want to purchase a set of Grips which have Product Code: 414170000. They run $49.99 plus Shipping.

Edited: Today 9/8/10 i ordered a 2nd set & price was quoted at $48.00 plus shipping. They are in stock at S&W. These same grips also fit on my L-Frame 686-4 snubby. Only modification i can see is a little sanding adjustment on the top of the back strap area on both sides. They go together at the seams, & stick down a little further on the hand griping. When these come in i'll post a picture.

Carl
 
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Thanks one H*** of a lot!

RPD20,

Nope, they are not on the website. You can call S&W Sales/Customer Service & tell them you want to purchase as set of Grips which have Product Code: 414170000. They run $49.99 plus Shipping.
Carl

First, you cost me $1,036. Now you just cost me another
$49.99 plus tax and shipping! Stop posting these great pics!!!
 
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S&W advised that in May, 2010 they made a bunch of fluted as well as unfluted guns in the PC Section. The 627 PC does not have any MIM parts in it according to S&W. The rep i spoke with advised that in June forward they used unfluted cylinders in their 627, 629, & 657 model snubbys.
DSC_2028SW8527PVB.jpg

Do you know how many fluted versions were made? I would like to own one. Do they give you the option of fluted or non when ordering? Thanks.
 
Magnum,
Sorry, i don't know. The Sales/Customer Rep just told me they made "both types" - fluted & unfluted in May 2010.

When i ordered mine I had a choice of either one, & I asked for the fluted.

Cougar,
You still need to get the "Plug" for your 627 & thats another couple bucks. Then either an IWB or OWB holster, & a half dozen Speed loaders, as well as boxes & boxes of 38/357. Its never ending isn't it my friend ?

Glock,
Yes they are beautiful. But a gun is made to shoot & the 627 is super with 357. You just don't feel it like as in my 686 snubby. I've cranked around 200 of 357 through it & i still have my fingers on & my wrist is still working. It is a true "flame thrower" to see at night out in the yard when that critter goes off.
Carl
 
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Since I originally posted a picture of my new 627 PC Snubby several weeks ago, there has been a lot of PMs about the Fluted Cylinder and whether there were any MIM parts in the Performance Center model. I was in contact with S&W this morning to research this gun. The particular 627 based upon the serial number was made in May, 2010 with a fluted cylinder. S&W advised that in May, 2010 they made a bunch of fluted as well as unfluted guns in the PC Section. The 627 PC does not have any MIM parts in it according to S&W. The rep i spoke with advised that in June forward they used unfluted cylinders in their 627, 629, & 657 model snubbys. Hope this helps some.
Carl

DSC_2028SW8527PVB.jpg

Might be a total rookie question, but how do you cock the hammer with the cylinder open? My 686 will not do this - can't open the cylinder with a cocked hammer and can't cock the hammer with the cylinder open...:confused:
 
Might be a total rookie question, but how do you cock the hammer with the cylinder open? My 686 will not do this - can't open the cylinder with a cocked hammer and can't cock the hammer with the cylinder open...:confused:

Hold the thumbpiece back while you cock it.
 
^^^^ Yea I noticed the cylinder open and hammer cocked too. It most likely has something to do with the IL being removed.
 
^^^^ Yea I noticed the cylinder open and hammer cocked too. It most likely has something to do with the IL being removed.

Has nothing to do with the lock, the man above told you right. Open the cylinder and the same piece that you pushed on pull it back and hold it then cock the hammer.
 
Jas & Scott,

Yup, like the guys above mentioned. When you push the "Cylinder Latch" forward to open the cylinder the "Bolt Assembly" inside also goes forward. The Latch is attached to the Bolt by that Screw in the middle. This prevents the hammer & trigger from functioning. Attached to this are the Bolt Pin & bolt spring. By pulling the latch back to its original position this allows you to cock the hammer. I have a 686-4 snubby & you can do that gun also. Nothing to do with the IL at all. Only thing to "really remember" is if your cylinder is loaded, you need to ease the hammer down before closing up the cylinder otherwise when you pull the trigger its going to go off. If you have a leg/arm or whatever in the way its going to hurt a lot.
Carl
 
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Jas & Scott,

Yup, like the experts above mentioned. Open the cylinder, pull the latch back, & cock the hammer. I have a 686-4 snubby & you can do that gun also. Nothing to do with the IL at all. Only thing to "really remember" is if your cylinder is loaded, you need to ease the hammer down before closing up the cylinder otherwise if you pull the trigger its going to go off.
Carl

A day without learning is a day wasted. Thanks!
 
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