S&W 686- Ammo/flame cutting

[eddieE76]

What is the general consensus on the use of 130 gr. factory ammo in the 686 or even the 627? Is this "too light" for the caliber? I have been reading about flame cutting and I think I read that if you use ammo that is too light, it will lead to back strap and forcing cone damage.

Thanks

 

[M3Stuart]

Flame cutting, IMHO, is only an issue with lead ammo. That's because it leaves, or can leave, lead deposits in the barrel. Even then, it's not enough of an issue to worry about. You just clean it out with a brass bore brush.

In my experience, the 125 and 130 gr bullets have only one issue; they shoot a little bit lower than the 158gr bullets due to the way the factory sights are set up. Again, it's not an issue to worry about. I wouldn't worry about damaging the forcing cone or backstrap. The issue you may be referring to may involve .357 mag loads in the 66 and other K frame .357's. But that was quite rare as I understand it.

 

[qrachel]

I shoot all kinds of factory in my 686+. The lighter ammo feels a little (?) snappier at times but other than that I've had no problems with about 1,000 rounds now. I shoot a mixture of 38spcl range and 357mag JHP. It's all good. I don't seem to notice any difference shooting silhouettes at 35 & 50 yds. Of course, I'm a new shooter and think I'm doing great when I hit 50-60% of my shoots - old Hickcock45 is in no danger.

Just clean it and shoot it . . . . take care,

Rachel

 

[OKFC05]

First, what caliber of ammo are you talking about?
Flame cutting is a non-issue with .38 ammo. I have taken a brass scraper and removed the "flame cutting" line left from .38 ammo, which was in fact a thin line of residue.

With .357 ammo, particularly with certain powders, flame cutting on the topstrap happens, but is pretty much self limiting and inconsequential in a 686.

As far as the weight of the bullet, you are simply mixing your stories, and the 686 is not a K frame with the potential to crack the forcing cone. The bullet weight is irrelevant to flame cutting.

Rachel gave great advice: clean it, shoot it, Repeat PRN

 

[eddieE76]

Thanks folks. To clarify, I was talking about 38 special with 130gr. Fmj projectiles. We spend all this money on guns, I just want to make sure I am not abusing my investments.

 

[BJoe]

This is my night stand gun. It gets fired EVERY WEEK, 20-50 rounds. It obviously gets hot enough to turn blue. I shoot every and anything through it. Top strap/forcing cone is PERFECT.Fire away.

 

[USBP SW]

I believe that flame cutting (erosion on the leading edge of the barrel and top strap)is the result of hot gases escaping from the gap between the barrel and cylinder as the bullet is engraved and forced through the barrel. This action is most pronounced with slow burning powders and jacketed bullets, since the pressure is still building and more force is required to engrave copper as opposed to lead. I have observed that the erosion is noticiable after a few hundred rounds but tapers off and there is no discernable change once it reaches a certain point. I have only noticed a problem on medium frame revolvers (Model 19 & 66), with a substantial amount of heavy magnum loads. So shoot and enjoy your revolver.

Good shooting, Steve

 

[butchkent]

Flame cutting can occur with any high intensity load. It is primarily a problem with shorter bullets. They are short enough that they don'engage the forcing cone before the bullet leaves the cylinder. The bullet jumps or flys to the forcing cone. This let's high temperature gas escape around the base of the bullet and from behind the bullet. The very hot gas then passes through the cylinder gap and has enough energy to cut the top of the frame. Longer bullets would hold the gas trapped behind the base of the bullet longer and use much of the energy accelerating the bullet to higher velocity. Frame cutting is only one of the problems resulting from the use of magnum loaded short/ light bullets. Use of some of the newer alloy lighter bullets should help since they would be longer. IMHO this is the long and short of the issue. Check for yourself. Longer, heavier bullets do not cause the problem even when loaded to same pressure as short bullets.
Regarding the use of factory 130 gr ammo. I wouldn't worry about it. If you bought or loaded the very hot 125-130 gr magnum loads then you could see minor cutting. Not a big issue for most shooters. For competition shooters who shoot many tens of thousands of rounds a year, just plan on buying a new or having major overhaul every couple years or so.
Either way, enjoy!

Responding from phone so please excuse typos, etc.

 

[jtcarm]

Warning: shooting your gun may cause wear!

Too light loads cause flame cutting,
Too hot loads cause flame cutting
Fondling your gun too long causes flame cutting.
Gun may spontaneously combust on removal from box.

Seriously, the .357 magnum is 78 years old. The .38 special is over 100. To read all the hoopla about flame cutting & "abrasive powders", you'd think a shooter was putting himself in mortal peril by shooting one.

And don't forget: shooting .38s in a .357 contributes to global warming!

 

[snowman]

I have 3 686s, and shoot ONLY .357 125gr. JHPs with a near-maximum charge of vv N110. NONE of the three have flame-cut top straps, or any other sign of accelerated wear. Any load that stays within safe pressure limits is fine.

Regards,
Andy


P.S. If I used my H110 it might cut the top strap some, but as has been noted earlier, flame-cutting is not a serious problem. It goes so far and stops.

 

[Mister_Smith]

I have this here 686 from 1990 and have put maybe 100 rounds through it, at the very outside, maybe I goofed memory wise and there are 200 rounds through it, nearly all .357 with some pedal to the metal supercharged loads (according to the guy who hand loaded them) and so far, no flame cutting. That's not to say it won't happen, but in 100 to 200 rounds, not even a shadow of a flame cut on the inside of the top strap and I gave it the fingernail check many many times. Smooth as can be, so far...