S&W AIRWEIGHT CLEANING

[jimmyj]

Hi:
What is a good bore cleaner for airweights?
Hoppes #9 might be too harsh?
Thanks,
Jimmy

 

[indiandave]

Jimmy, Hoppe's # 9 works well on all my J frames. I have a 642, 60, and a 36.

 

[Andy Griffith]

No harsh stuff on the clear coated ones (638,637,642,317) such as acetone, brake cleaner or gun scrubber- or the coating will come off. Hoppes doesn't seem to eat at the clear coat, so using it moderately shouldn't be a problem. It doesn't matter on the blued airweights as they are anodized and the cleaners won't hurt them.

Some of the oldest stainless airweights were silver anodized, but people complained because the anodizing didn't match the stainless too well. They switched to some kind of clear coating that matched so much better, but it is affected by strong chemicals.

 

[chief38]

Been using Remoil, Rig #2 oil (Brownell's #2 oil) and Hoppes for years without any issues.

 

[Rugskipper]

You guys clean your airweights? I just put mine back in my pocket dirty. Builds character.:eek:

 

[Rule3]

Anything. If it's a alloy frame like a 642, just don't let the #9 sit on the frame. For the barrel it's fine.

Just use Break Free CLP or Rem Oil brush and patch your done.

 

[JcMack]

What is this "cleaning" you speak of?

 

[jimmyj]

Hi:
Just was speaking to S&W Customer Service Rep. He advised not to use
Hoppes #9 as the fumes would harm the clear coat finish.
Is Rem-Oil a bore cleaner?
Thanks,
Jimmy

 

[Bat Guano]

I've used Hoppe's #9, Ed's Red, and 1969 dated GI bore cleaner on a 34 year old M37 and a 16 year old M442 (both anodized, I guess) without problems. Don't have any of the exotics so no idea about those.

With all the different finishes nowadays it probably pays to read the fine print. The charcoal blue finish Uberti uses is supposed to be very touchy that way; apparently Hoppe's is death to it. Break-Free is supposed to be the way to go.

Maybe it's time to go back to hot soapy water and sperm oil.

 

[Rule3]

Hi:
Just was speaking to S&W Customer Service Rep. He advised not to use
Hoppes #9 as the fumes would harm the clear coat finish.
Is Rem-Oil a bore cleaner?
Thanks,
Jimmy

Rem Oil is not a great cleaner IMO. It is a good lube.

Use the Breakfree CLP

I have a 442 and 642 and have used Hoppes in the Barrel and many occasions. No problems. But as I said not on the frame.

If you are really concerned get a can of Ballstol (Sportsman's oil) non toxic and works real well. You can put it on anything

Ballistol Sportsman's Gun Oil 16 oz Liquid - MidwayUSA

 

[lemeni]

I use Hoppe's Elite Gun Cleaner on my scandium Night Guard. Works well, doesn't harm the finish. (Actually, I use Hoppe's Elite on all my guns now.)

Hoppe's 9 - Elite Gun Cleaner

 

[Cyrano]

I'm another Hoppe's Elite user. My 638 hasn't had any surface damage from it, and I've put plenty of it on the alloy frame getting the powder stains off.

 

[JcMack]

Did they not discontinue that clear coat. I thought 638's, 642's and 637's were all matte silver anodized for a long time now.

 

[JohnnieB]

Did they not discontinue that clear coat. I thought 638's, 642's and 637's were all matte silver anodized for a long time now.

You might be right about that, there doersn't appear to be any clear coat under the all the GSR on the 637 I bought new a couple years ago. ;)

John

 

[Cyrano]

My 638, bought last year, is matte, but I thought it was matte aluminum color, rather than silver anodized.

 

[JcMack]

My 638, bought last year, is matte, but I thought it was matte aluminum color, rather than silver anodized.

The S&W site lists the 638 as aluminum alloy with a matte silver finish. I agree it looks like matte aluminum. For a while it seems they eliminated the anodizing process and did a clear coat on it. I had a 632 2" with such a finish and it was indeed a thing of beauty. That clear coat seems to have been a problem resulting in many returns to the factory. I don't see any clear coated new guns and I just assume the guns are now anodized.

P.S. After reading a little bit about the anodizing process it appears the "clear coat" might be a form of anodizing.

 

[Pointman]

When I first got my 642 2-3 years ago had to send it back to S&W to replace the clear-coat. They said to use Hoppe's Elite and wouldn't be a problem. Have since then and no problem.