S&W M&P model 1899

[Ceb427]

Hi guys I’m new to the forum so please excuse me if I posting this in the wrong place but I just picked up a smith and Wesson m&p model 1899. I was wondering what caliber were these made in mine is a .38 but is it .38 special or .38 long colt is it safe to shoot modern Ammo in it ? It’s an early production serial number in the 1,500s no roll mark on caliber on barrel from my understanding these were made from 1899 to 1902 this one is in excellent mechanical shape and isn’t bad cosmetically thank you so much for your help

 

[cgt4570]

I have a few. I shoot them with modern .38spl target loads.

 

[murphydog]

Welcome! I moved it to the Revolvers 1896-1961 subforum, as it is a Hand Ejector and not an antique.

The commercial 1899 model was made in .38 Special and the military version in .38 Long Colt (aka .38 Military - who wants to put your competitor's name on the barrel?) A mechanically sound example should handle standard pressure .38 Special fine as Chris noted. Enjoy!

 

[Ceb427]

Thank you How do you tell the difference between the military model and the commercial model

 

[Absalom]

... How do you tell the difference between the military model and the commercial model

I am also hoping somebody can answer this definitely:

I’m under the impression that all those chambered in the service load .38 LC have the .38 MIL on the barrel. Is this correct or are there blank barrels with this chambering too?

 

[murphydog]

Thank you How do you tell the difference between the military model and the commercial model

The 1899 Army and Navy contract revolvers will have a service-specific rollmark on the bottom of the grip frame, plus inspector stamps on the frame.

Member Mike Priwer is the local expert on the 1899 and has a thread about caliber stamping on the 1899; perhaps he will see this and comment about the .38 MIL vs. Special mark.

 

[Oyeboteb]

Hi guys I’m new to the forum so please excuse me if I posting this in the wrong place but I just picked up a smith and Wesson m&p model 1899. I was wondering what caliber were these made in mine is a .38 but is it .38 special or .38 long colt is it safe to shoot modern Ammo in it ? It’s an early production serial number in the 1,500s no roll mark on caliber on barrel from my understanding these were made from 1899 to 1902 this one is in excellent mechanical shape and isn’t bad cosmetically thank you so much for your help

Can you post some good images of the Revolver as a whole, also, good close ups of the Text on the side of the Barrel, and lastly, looking in to the rear of the Cylinder to see the depth of chambering?

 

[Ceb427]

Here are the pictures there the best I have right now I don’t have the gun yet waiting for ffl transfer i bought it out of state I took these in the gun shop before I left to further research I don’t know anything about these I paid 249.99 plus 25 to ship mechanically it’s excellent I will be trying to source the original grips there are no markings at all on barrel it’s an early serial number I don’t remember it exactly but it’s in the 1,500s

 

[Ceb427]

Can you post some good images of the Revolver as a whole, also, good close ups of the Text on the side of the Barrel, and lastly, looking in to the rear of the Cylinder to see the depth of chambering?

I’m just trying to find out as much as possible about the gun the guy who sold it to me is very knowledgeable and I trust his expertise 100% but would just like more info on these I posted pictures there the best I got for now thank you for you time

 

[murphydog]

It looks intact (down to the threaded knob at the end of the extractor rod, make sure it is tight) and original aside from the rubber grip. Given the background of semi-auto pistols in the photo, the dealer probably just wanted it out the door so you paid a very good price.

As a commercial gun it should be in .38 Special, period. See if the SN appears on the rear cylinder face and barrel flat near the extractor rod, which means it has all original parts.

It was the first K or medium frame revolver, made in .38 and .32-20, with just under 21000 in .38 made in the time frame you mentioned. More information, including its ship or sales date and destination can be had with a letter of authenticity:

http://www.swhistoricalfoundation.com/swhf_letter.pdf

Current wait time is about 3 months.

 

[StrawHat]

I would imagine the OP is looking for Service stocks to replace the Pachmyers? Or Magnas? Plain or checkered?

I am not sure what would be appropriate on that model.

Kevin

 

[Ceb427]

It looks intact (down to the threaded knob at the end of the extractor rod, make sure it is tight) and original aside from the rubber grip. Given the background of semi-auto pistols in the photo, the dealer probably just wanted it out the door so you paid a very good price.

As a commercial gun it should be in .38 Special, period. See if the SN appears on the rear cylinder face and barrel flat near the extractor rod, which means it has all original parts.

It was the first K or medium frame revolver, made in .38 and .32-20, with just under 21000 in .38 made in the time frame you mentioned. More information, including its ship or sales date and destination can be had with a letter of authenticity:

http://www.swhistoricalfoundation.com/swhf_letter.pdf

Current wait time is about 3 months.

Thanks for your help I frequent this shop as I have a second home 5 min away and they always have Fantastic prices on everything even now with everything going on the best prices I’ve seen anywhere he also is a master gunsmith and offers a lot of custom work as well this is my first revolver and my first smith and Wesson up until yesterday I only owned semi autos (im a big fan of 1911s ) I seen it in the case and I don’t know why I just had to have it so thank you everyone for all your help.

 

[glowe]

Welcome to the Forum. Pretty much everything has been said about the calibers and variations, but wanted to add that an original 1899 Army or Navy will not chamber a 38 Special round. The 38 Military, as S&W called it, was a shorter cartridge. Many military arms were modified to accept 38 Special but that is an alteration, not original.

One can easily tell the difference between a 32 Winchester and a 38 Special by looking at the cylinder front face. Note the image below. If you have a micrometer, you can check the front of the cylinder. a 38 Special should be around .357", while the 32 Winchester would measure about .312".

Forgot to add that if you are looking through the chamber from the rear and see two slight rings, you are looking at a 32 Winchester (32-20). First reduction is for the shoulder of the brass case and the second is the reduction for the bullet.

 

[glowe]

. . or maybe a nice chrome job!!

 

[H Richard]

These two 1st Mod M&P's are fairly close in s/n, and shipped only a month apart. But, note on the nickel one the 4 line address. This was an example Roy Jinks used to order the ceasing of "Updating" roll-marks whenever one is sent in for refurb. The nickel one was originally nickel.




Both guns are in 38 Special. I have shot the blue one, but only with mild target WC loads. I don't want to stress 120 year old steel.

 

[Ceb427]

These two 1st Mod M&P's are fairly close in s/n, and shipped only a month apart. But, note on the nickel one the 4 line address. This was an example Roy Jinks used to order the ceasing of "Updating" roll-marks whenever one is sent in for refurb. The nickel one was originally nickel.




Both guns are in 38 Special. I have shot the blue one, but only with mild target WC loads. I don't want to stress 120 year old steel.

Thanks for the info very nice Guns

 

[mikepriwer]

Chris

I found your thread here. See my email to you for further information.

Regards, Mike Priwer

 

[H Richard]

You should pay close attention to whatever Mike Priwer tells you. He is our local "Expert" on anything 1899, 1st Mod M&P.