S&W M17 vs 617?

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I´m looking for a good revolver in 22lr and on my list are the M17 or the 617. Obviously the 617 is newer and the current models have 10 shots - but how is the trigger compared to an old M17? I have heard that the trigger on the M17 (or was it on th K-frame?) is always better than on the 617?

I´m waiting for a 627 in 357 mag. and I´m thinking that the 617 will be more like that in feel, size and weight, wich would be a plus..
 
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I´m looking for a good revolver in 22lr and on my list are the M17 or the 617. Obviously the 617 is newer and the current models have 10 shots - but how is the trigger compared to an old M17? I have heard that the trigger on the M17 (or was it on th K-frame?) is always better than on the 617?

I´m waiting for a 627 in 357 mag. and I´m thinking that the 617 will be more like that in feel, size and weight, wich would be a plus..

I do own a few stainless guns, but prefer blued. That said, I think the triggers should be pretty much the same. Personally i would go for a M17 or a K22 masterpiece. M17-3 or earlier. Why?? They will shoot just as good, and you protect your investment better. Just my .02

Model 17-3 ( 1968) below
 

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I own both models from different vintages. The 17's are the sweetest ascetically but they are all beautiful in their own way. FWIW, my 10 shot 617's gets the most use on the range. I like their durability and don't need to baby them to preserve their value.
Do a search. This is a frequent topic and there have been several recent threads on this comparison.
Here are mine in order of age.

1939' K22 Outdoorsman

17-2

617, 6 shot no dash

pair of 617-6, 10 shot
 
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Model 17 versus Model 617.

Other than the obvious differences, i.e. 10 versus 6 shot, blue carbon steel versus stainless steel, internal lock (Model 617) and round versus square butt here are the differences that might not be obvious:
1. The 617 has slightly bigger chambers. The model 17 is notorious for difficult cartridge extraction (and inserting cartridges). After about 50 rounds it can become very difficult to extract/insert cartridges from/into the model 17 whereas the 617 can handle 300+ rounds before the chambers get dirty enough extraction or insertion is difficult.
2. The 617 top strap is drilled and tapped to easily accept optics with no modifications. A Raptor Engineering mount along with a small red dot sight makes a nice combination.
3. The 617 does not have a tapered barrel so a 6" Model 617 is significantly more front end heavy than a 6" Model 17. The 4" Model 617 is less front end heavy but the balance still seems just a bit more front end heavy than a 6" model 17. It would be interesting to have someone chime in about the weight of a 4" Model 617 barrel versus a 6" Model 17 barrel.
 
I also have both. I really like the 617 for range work, but the model 17-2 has a smoother trigger pull. This may be due to much target use over the years.
Walt
 

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S&W M17 vs 617?

If you wanted a 6 shot 4” gun, the Model 18 would be a good choice. But I’m biased! I would love to have a Md 18. Lol. I have a 617 6” and love it but wish I had a Md 17 to compare it to.


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17 vrs 617

I have a pre 17, a 17-3 and a 617-1. I really like the deep blue finish on the 17-3, but this and the K-22 both exhibit sticky extraction after about a box, doesn't matter what brand or quality ammo. The 617-1 six shot on the other hand has no extraction issues, and is just as accurate as the others. I shoot the 617 a lot, mostly all double action, It's very close match to my 686, both guns in six inch bbls. Shooting 2 hand double action rapid fire, the 617 can put all 6 shots in the 50 foot rapid fire black. Good enough for me. Plus it's stainless which makes for easier cleaning. Just my opinion, worth about as much as a burnt out light bulb. Ken
 
Welcome aboard from Wyoming.

Blue is handsome; stainless steel is obligatorily wear resistant.

You can shoot a blue gun as often and as long as a stainless and you'll still be able to maintain its handsome appearance.

Stainless steel is great for a carry weapon, which I doubt you'll be doing with a .22.

You can easily remedy the sticking chambers in a K-22.
 
CURRENTLY A 4" 617-6

If both were 4" I think the mdl 17 would feel/balance (no full underlug) better & have a smoother trigger. OTOH a 10 shot & a speed loader is more fun. Owning a 4" 681 or 686, a 4" 617 makes a nice training/practice piece. I "believe" both the 17 and 617 are K frames. Neither is a dog.
 
Answer to this question is easy....Depends on what your intentions are with the gun.... For general plinking at the range go for the M17. But for a good woods gun, competition, plinking go for the new 10 shot 617- 6" barrel..

This is my 617-6 6" that I use for competition complete with a Weig-A-Tinny mount & UltraDot L/T and Altamont grips
712l1bx.jpg
 
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17 or 617

My mid to late ‘80’s vintage with 3 letter alpha serial number has no extraction or loading problems even after several boxes of ammunition. Its a 17-5. The bluing isn’t as nice as the older mirror blue but it sure is accurate!
 
Lightweight 22 L frame 10 shot?

I've been a huge fan of Smith and Wesson revolvers and have owned many over the years. My current favorite is a 4" 617 with an Alchin mount sporting a Cmore dot. I compete with it in local rimfire steel matches. What if it had the weight of the 325 or a 327 in a L frame size? It would be perfect. I'd buy 2. I see that they make an 8 shot 317 kit gun in a J frame but that is not going to work for competitive shooters. A L frame 10 shot lightweight framed 22 LR would have its place in the rimfire action steel matches. Expensive? We already are willing to drop $800+ on a base 617. Then add better sights, grips, mount, dot, or action job and you can have $1500 in a really cool piece. Competitive shooters aren't worried about money. Look at what an Open 9mm USPSA gun runs. Come on Smith... make it and they will come.
 
I have friend with a new production, "Classic" K22 Model 17 and the trigger was terrible.

I have a 70s K22 Model 17 and a brand new 617 and I was shocked how good the trigger is in the 617. Only in single action though.

Bob
 
I have friend with a new production, "Classic" K22 Model 17 and the trigger was terrible.

I have a 70s K22 Model 17 and a brand new 617 and I was shocked how good the trigger is in the 617. Only in single action though.

Bob

The triggers are easily "Fixable".

By the way, not intending to drift too far off course here, but several of my fellow members on this thread have either posted very nice photos of their .22's with dot sights affixed or made mention of the fact that they have similar setups. Am I the only member of this forum that can't shoot a dot sight because of cataracts? :mad: All I see when I try looking at a dot sight is a HUUGE starburst that covers the whole target! :eek::o:eek: Oh well, carry on. :o
 
When I came to this decision, I quickly went with a vintage Model 17 with target stocks, target hammer, and target trigger (3T's). I love this revolver for its classiness, feel, and accuracy. It is a "Masterpiece." Just my $0.02 worth.

S&W Model 17-4 "K22 Masterpiece" in .22 Long Rifle
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cldIMa.jpg


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Thanks for looking at my Model 17.

God bless,
Birdgun
 
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