S&W Mod. 13-3

[sddave56]

Hi everyone. Question / Concern. I just recently purchased, what appears to be, a barely used, very clean, S&W Mod. 13-3. Inspected it the best I could prior to taking possession. No problems noted.

I picked it up after the ten day waiting period Friday. Took it home cleaned it, and noticed the side plate screws were a bit loose.

I tightened down the screws a bit. Now the cylinder doesn't swing out freely, there is resistance. Loosen the side plate screws, and the cylinder swings out freely.

Just as a comparison I checked my Mod. 19-4, screws are tight, cylinder swings freely.

What do you all think.

Thank You.

 

[murphydog]

The lower, forward sideplate has the "yoke retention screw". It is fitted so the yoke cannot slide out but the cylinder/yoke barrel rotates freely.

The first thing to try is to swap the other similar (round headed) screw on the sideplate into that position and see if the problem goes away. If not, finding a new screw and having it fitted is usually an easy job.

 

[chief38]

The lower, forward sideplate has the "yoke retention screw". It is fitted so the yoke cannot slide out but the cylinder/yoke barrel rotates freely.

The first thing to try is to swap the other similar (round headed) screw on the sideplate into that position and see if the problem goes away. If not, finding a new screw and having it fitted is usually an easy job.

If swapping the screws does not help (or makes matters worse) than there is no need to find another screw. The reason the cylinder is tight is because the existing screw is just too large and needs to be SLOWLY brought down to fit. I am sure you know that but it didn't "read" correctly to a novice.

 

[sddave56]

Thats inspiring. I will swap the the side plate screws around. Lets see how that works.

Thank You for the quick response.

 

[Jimmy4570]

Look at them first. The yoke retainer is the shorter of the two. Loose screws are a normal occurrence for any piece snapped and/or shot very much. The lightest film of blue LocTite or clear nail polish can help them stay tight longer. If neither screw fits that yoke retention spot properly, take it to a smith to get a new one fit.

 

[armorer951]

Sounds like your piloted screw is very close to the correct fit. Perhaps a little oil on the back of the button where the screw pilot is in contact will help loosen things up a bit. Ideally, the correct amount of contact with the screw as the yoke closes is what is required to hold the yoke in place properly, and without any movement fore and aft while the assembly is closed. A little resistance as the assembly closes is actually desired in this case.

Smith and Wesson teaches that the initial fit of the yoke button to the screw pilot is done by removing material from the contact point on the button itself. As and "end user" however, if fitting of the new screw becomes necessary, I would recommend removal of material from the screw pilot itself, not the yoke button. The reason here is the screw is relatively inexpensive, compared to a new yoke if a mistake is made.

Remember though, if a little fitting becomes necessary, that the yoke button bears against the side of the pilot at the end of the screw, not the end of the pilot. So..... modification of the screw to limit it's contact on the button (make the yoke easier to swing out) would entail making the diameter of the piloted end a bit smaller, not by shortening the screw pilot.

Some "break in" would be expected, so I would suggest waiting a bit, and see if usage and lubricant will help make the interface viable without further intervention.

 

[sddave56]

Ok I removed both screws. Both are the same length. The front screw appears to have been shortened (fitted) at some point.

So what I did was take out the yoke & cylinder. Clean and lube things. Reassemble and test. Still too much resistance. Removed screw, and using a fine knife sharpening stone, and steel I carefully removed material from the tip of the screw, and polished it with the steel.

I got to a point where now I can tighten down the screw. There seems to be a bit less resistance when opening and closing the cylinder. I think I can live with that.


Thank You all for the insight / advise.

 

[armorer951]

The tip, or end of the screw is not the location that interfaces with the button of the yoke. To lessen interference/contact, you should reduce the diameter of the pilot found in front of the threaded portion of the end of the yoke screw.....not the length of the pilot. (or OAL of the screw)

 

[sddave56]

The tip, or end of the screw is not the location that interfaces with the button of the yoke. To lessen interference/contact, you should reduce the diameter of the pilot found in front of the threaded portion of the end of the yoke screw.....not the length of the pilot. (or OAL of the screw)

In that case , that part of the screw was missing. It was all threads, and looked to have been shortened at some time.

Ok so I just ordered a new Yoke Screw from Numrich. We'll start this all over again from scratch.