S&W Model 58 Stamps

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Just bought a model 58, 4" Bbl, nickle finish. It is pinned and has recessed cylinder. SN is 38855 apparently unregistered on the web, I could not find it. Below is another stamp on the yoke "B12". Batch number perhaps? And on the face of the cylinder above the recesses is the letter "N". I would appreciate any and all help in finding what these stamps mean. TY in advance.
 

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The 38855 is the "assembly number" that is used to assure major components of the revolver can be re-matched if separated during manufacture. It appears on the frame, yoke, and inside the sideplate. B12 is a fitters or inspectors mark. The N on the cylinder should indicate the revolver was originally nickel plated.

These are all standard marks found on all S&W revolvers.
 
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Proper S/N

The proper serial number can be found on the bottom of the frame.
If the gun currently has target stocks on it you will need to remove them to view SN.

We like full photos of guns👍

Congrats on your new purchase.

Masterbuck54
 
Just bought a model 58, 4" Bbl, nickle finish. It is pinned and has recessed cylinder. SN is 38855 apparently unregistered on the web, I could not find it. Below is another stamp on the yoke "B12". Batch number perhaps? And on the face of the cylinder above the recesses is the letter "N". I would appreciate any and all help in finding what these stamps mean. TY in advance.
Serial number will have either a "S" or "N" before the numbers. Nice find, a factory nickel M58, not a lot of them around. Correct stocks (grips) should be walnut PC magnas, which do not cover the bottom of the butt frame, and the bottoms are rounded off and not square. Older guns may have the stocks numbered to the gun, stamped on the back of the right side panel. If your gun was made before 1969 (has the "S" prefix), it will also have a diamond around the screw that holds the grip panels in place. If after 1969 it would not have the diamond.

All M58's have a 4" barrel, and all are P&R. It is also one of a very few revolvers that have no series changes during their original production run, they are all "no-dash".
 

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Ty for your info. I took off the grips and it is a no dash as you stated. Problem I found out when I took it out yesterday is it has a "Hair Trigger", just touch it and it was off. I guess I need a new trigger spring now. I would like to find out how to increase the trigger pull IF possible.
I Tried to attach a photo, but I can not figure out how to do it.
 
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Ty for your info. I took off the grips and it is a no dash as you stated. Problem I found out when I took it out yesterday is it has a "Hair Trigger", just touch it and it was off. I guess I need a new trigger spring now. I would like to find out how to increase the trigger pull IF possible.
I Tried to attach a photo, but I can not figure out how to do it.

Are you talking about the single action trigger pull? It should be pretty sensitive, most S&W's have a light but crisp break when the trigger is pulled. Check it for "push-off", by cocking it in single action (unloaded, of course). Then without touching the trigger, use gentle to moderate thumb pressure pushing forward on the hammer spur. It should not drop. If the hammer drops, do not fire the gun, it is not safe to use. Also make sure the hammer spring strain screw is screwed all the way in. The strain screw is visible at the bottom of the front strap of the butt frame.
 
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Ty for your info. I took off the grips and it is a no dash as you stated. Problem I found out when I took it out yesterday is it has a "Hair Trigger", just touch it and it was off. I guess I need a new trigger spring now. I would like to find out how to increase the trigger pull IF possible.
I Tried to attach a photo, but I can not figure out how to do it.

You don't need the grips off to see it is a no dash - you are looking for the serial number on the butt/bottom of frame. Be sure the screw just above the butt inside the bottom of the frame is screwed in tight.
 

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