S&W Model 64 4" to 3" Barrel

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Looks like you removed the markings. Please show us the gun when finished. A neat project.
 
Yep, the roll marks and the top ridge all filed off and leveled out with sand paper. Went for a round top barrel because I always liked the looks of the short bull barreled Ruger single actions As you can see there is still some work to be done. I will post pics when completed.

I have been wanting a 3" revolver for a snake gun carry but they are pretty expensive. This was a police turn in for under $300. Actually in very nice condition for a 33 year old gun.
 
That might be a better idea. That type of solder matches stainless better than the 56% silver which is a bit yellow.

Thanks
 
YES ^^^^^^^^^ - HEAT SINKS SHOULD BE USED - at least I'd use them. :) I'd also strip the Cylinder off the gun so a metal plate could be used to heat sink along the frame. I might be going a bit over-kill, but better safe than sorry.
 
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Thanks all for the suggestions. Rigging up aluminum heatsinks sounds like a good idea. Scrap aluminum I have.

Yes the cylinder will be removed. The gun is stripped. I only have the sideplate and cylinder installed for finish work
 
Man, I can't wait to see the finished project. Wish I had the skills and tools to do that. Well, I do have a hacksaw, and some sandpaper. A 3" would go well with my 4" and 2" 64's.
 
Hahaha. I have hacksaw, good files, sandpaper, and last but not least an excellent old heavy vice. I'm pretty much done and only have the front sight to silver braze in. These are a spare set of grips. I'm not sure what grips I want to use. Rubber would probably the most appropriate but I like wood or ivory grips.



Forgot to mention my most excellent muzzle crowning tools.

 
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Just a suggestion. Stay Brite solder should work well, perhaps better than brazing. We use it to solder stainless steel bolsters and guards to custom stainless knives. It never darkens and I as far as I know is the best to use. If you haven't attempted it, stainless steel is a bear to solder. If you do use solder you MUST use the correct flux, Stay Brite is the best. Hardware store solder won't work.
See link attached. If that doesn't work check any knife maker supply house, like "usaknifemaker.com".

Stay Brite(R) | The Harris Products Group
 
Thanks, but I silver brazed the new sight in today. I used Muggy Weld's Silver Solder which is the 56% silver type and is worked at 1200 degrees F so is more of a brazing product rather than a solder type. Used aluminum heat sinks just to be safe. I'm very pleased with the look of the round barrel top. Crappy pic, I will do some with better staging. Don't know what grips I will use. Those are a spare pair.

 
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Thanks..

No...I do not have the proper devices for barrel removal. All the work on the barrel was done with a variety of files followed by 180 and 400 grit sandpaper. I'm 82 so I know how to use files. :):)

The sight is a piece hack sawed from a heavy 2" SS316 washer ( Grainger) and it's the same thickness as S&W's ... .10"
 
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I will probably be inheriting a crudely re-blued Model 10 dash something this weekend. Square butt, 4" barrel, and snow tires. Your work is an inspiration, and I would like to shorten the barrel to 3" and remove the lettering like you did and add some nice wood. I would then re-re-blue it, after some very careful hand polishing.

I have a Model 65 with 3" barrel and round butt that I like very much. I prefer a square butt, but the round is good, too.

FWIW, I have successfully used Brownells HI-FORCE 44 solder to attach front sights on carbon steel barrels. It is 4% silver and 96% tin, and flows at only 475 degrees F. It withstands caustic (hot dip) blueing. What's not to like???
 
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Happy to have inspired you. I didn't remove the lettering because I don't like lettering, at least not S&W's lettering. I removed it because after removing 1" of barrel, it wasn't centered anymore.

I thought the hot dip (molten salts) was at around 600 deg. F. I use the Mark Lee Express rust blue product with some success.

Please post pics of your progress.
 
Arquebus357 said:
Happy to have inspired you. I didn't remove the lettering because I don't like lettering, at least not S&W's lettering. I removed it because after removing 1" of barrel, it wasn't centered anymore.

I thought the hot dip (molten salts) was at around 600 deg. F. I use the Mark Lee Express rust blue product with some success.

Please post pics of your progress.
Click to expand...

I assumed you removed the lettering for the reason you stated above, which is why I plan to do the same.

I never said "molten salts". Never should anyone use that on a barrel or frame of a gun. I was referring to caustic/hot dip bluing, which operates at 292 degrees F. I use Brownells Oxynate No. 7 bluing salts.

As an example, here is a picture of a Pietta replica of a Remington black powder revolver and a holster I made for it. The barrel was mutilated when I got it, so I shortened it, soldered on a new front sight (using Brownells HI-FORCE 44 solder), and then caustic/hot dip blued it.

I do all my hot dip bluing at home.

I rust blued one gun. That was enough for me!
 

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