S&W Third Model Russian - Recent Aquisition

[wlw-19958]

Hi There,


I just received my latest No. 3. It is a Third Model Russian and
it is in near perfect mechanical condition. It is all matching.
The bore is excellent.

When received, the barrel latch wouldn't fully lock unless I helped
it with my thumb. So, I took it apart and there was a lot of dried
up oil inside (turned to varnish). I put it into my ultra-sonic cleaner
and afterwards coated the parts with FP10 oil. After re-assembly,
the latch works like it should.

There is one thing I would like to know. I noticed that some of
the screws were not completely nickeled (like the spring tensioning
screw). From the look of it, it appears the screw was still in the
frame when it was nickel plated (because the screw was nickeled
on its ends but blue in the middle). Was this the way S&W would
plate their revolvers? I assume not but it was plated in the typical
S&W fashion (Hammer and Trigger Guard are case colored and
Extractor Gear and Barrel Latch are blue). The Catch for the
Extractor Gear and the Latch under the barrel have no finish
on them where they are exposed but look like they were either
blue or case colored originally (judging from their backside).

Still it is very nice and it locks up like a bank vault.


Cheers!
Webb

 

[wlw-19958]

Hi There,


I mention in my earlier post about screws not fully plated. Here
is an example of this anomaly. This is the Mainspring Tension
Screw.


Cheers!
Webb

 

[mmaher94087]

Webb,

That mainspring strain screw is nothing that S&W ever used on their revolvers. The correct screw is a Fillister head and about an inch and a quarter long and has S&W's proprietary thread. The one shown looks like a modern 8-32.

 

[wlw-19958]

Hi There,

Webb,

That mainspring strain screw is nothing that S&W ever used on their revolvers. The correct screw is a Fillister head and about an inch and a quarter long and has S&W's proprietary thread. The one shown looks like a modern 8-32.

The screw is correct. S&W didn't use a fillister head screw for
the mainspring until the New Model No. 3 came out.


Cheers!
Webb

 

[mmaher94087]

Well heck, I guess that means that I'll need to look at my 3rd Model Russian. I haven't pulled it from the safe in 15 years... if it's still there and not sold. Sheesh, I honestly do not remember that type of strain screw.

 

[wlw-19958]

Hi There,


Here are some examples from my collection:


Cheers!
Webb

 

[wlw-19958]

Hi There,


Here is a drawing I made for the Schofield (but it is the same as
the others).


Cheers!
Webb

 

[iby]

Hi There,


I just received my latest No. 3. It is a Third Model Russian and
it is in near perfect mechanical condition. It is all matching.
The bore is excellent.

When received, the barrel latch wouldn't fully lock unless I helped
it with my thumb. So, I took it apart and there was a lot of dried
up oil inside (turned to varnish). I put it into my ultra-sonic cleaner
and afterwards coated the parts with FP10 oil. After re-assembly,
the latch works like it should.

There is one thing I would like to know. I noticed that some of
the screws were not completely nickeled (like the spring tensioning
screw). From the look of it, it appears the screw was still in the
frame when it was nickel plated (because the screw was nickeled
on its ends but blue in the middle). Was this the way S&W would
plate their revolvers? I assume not but it was plated in the typical
S&W fashion (Hammer and Trigger Guard are case colored and
Extractor Gear and Barrel Latch are blue). The Catch for the
Extractor Gear and the Latch under the barrel have no finish
on them where they are exposed but look like they were either
blue or case colored originally (judging from their backside).

Still it is very nice and it locks up like a bank vault.


Cheers!
Webb

From the pics it looks original finishes
congrats

 

[wlw-19958]

Hi There,


"The one shown looks like a modern 8-32."

You're not far off. The threads per inch (or tpi for short) is 32
but the diameter is a little smaller than a #8 screw. It is closer
to the now obsolete #7 - 32 screw size (just slightly larger by
4 to 6 thousandths). I used a geometric die head and adjusted
it to allow for the slightly larger diameter (IIRC, a #7 machine
screw is .144" or .145" in diameter but a split die or a die head
like I was using can be adjusted to thread the larger
diameter).


The #8 screw is .164" in diameter and I don't know if one can
close down an adjustable die in that size to thread a screw
that is 13 to 15 thousandths smaller. That is why I searched
out the #7 thread chasers for my geometric die head because
it is much easier to to open up the chasers the 4 to 6 thousandth
needed to make that screw.


Cheers!
Webb

 

[Exmilcop]

I have the same pistol but a later non-factory, though period, re-nickel. Mine isn't as nice as yours by any means and I'm doing some work on it since it's missing the cam that activates the ejector star. I have no idea about the lanyard ring on mine but it looks more like a unprofessional add-on. Lucky you!

 

[mmaher94087]

Webb, pass the crow. I stand corrected. I am no help on the two-tone question either.

 

[wlw-19958]

Hi There,

Webb, pass the crow. I stand corrected. I am no help on the two-tone question either.

I've had to eat crow many times in my life. So, from one crow
eater to another, a little hot sauce will help it go down easier.


Cheers!
Webb