S&W Victory sw22

gman51

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I got my new S&W Victory sw22 today. I put 200 rounds through it and was knocking a small pill bottle all around.
I read about the take down allen screw can come loose and yep mine did just that. That probably was what cause the gun twice to fail to pick up the next round and once an ejected casing got caught by the slide. I will have to keep an eye on that screw staying tight.
The gun is as accurate as I am. HA HA if that is saying anything. The sights make picking up the target really quick even in bright sunlight.
The trigger is very light which caused a few zingers. This gun IMO was made with all a shooter could want. Comes with a rail so if I want to add a scope or red dot I can very easily.
The grips fit my hand really good and the trigger reach is perfect for me as well.
Take down for field stripping couldn't be easier. Unlike my Ruger MKII that is a filed stripping nightmare revisited.

I am actually surprised S&W hasn't priced it higher. I got mine for $349.95 +tax. I am well pleased with this 22lr pistol. S&W did it right on this gun.
 

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I have a question. The manual says the gun is not to be dry fired so how am I supposed to not dry fire it when after cleaning? I rack the slide to make sure it is functioning correctly after reassembling which cocks the gun. I don't want to put the gun in storage with it cocked and I sure as heck don't want to load it and shoot it to uncock it then put it in storage dirty. Also after I am done shooting the bolt locks open and I am not going to leave the bolt open so I close it which again cocks the gun.
What's the answer here?
 
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It will do absolutely no harm to keep it cocked; if you must, keep some .22 LR empties after your next range session, chamber one so the firing pin will hit an unused portion of the rim and "dry fire" after cleaning.
 
You are correct it is a great pistol and you have to keep watching the set screw. Mine seems to be good for about 100 rounds. If I remember to bring the allen wrench there is no problem.

I set the safety after cleaning and remove it when the pistol has a loaded mag and is pointing downrange.

If you want the snap caps the anchors are the way to go.
 
I just crawled out from under a rock in a cave, and heard about this pistol from a S&W marketing email. It worked cuz now I'm getting one. Good intel on the loosening screws. Need more leverage to tighten, some light loc-tite? Forgive my elementary questions, have not seen nor held the pistol.
 
I just crawled out from under a rock in a cave, and heard about this pistol from a S&W marketing email. It worked cuz now I'm getting one. Good intel on the loosening screws. Need more leverage to tighten, some light loc-tite? Forgive my elementary questions, have not seen nor held the pistol.

I own one of these bought a month ago. When I disassembled for initial cleaning, my hex screw was so tight I had to use an extension to the allen wrench to turn the screw. There is a thread on this forum that discusses ideas on how to deal with loosening. Locktite is one idea; another is a torque wrench; one poster also says oil on the screw enables a tighter hold.

These are great pistols, especially at the current street price. I have lots of Rugers which are good but difficult to assemble after takedown.
 
A 22 target pistol that you cannot dry fire?? Preposterous!
I guarantee mine will be dry fired a lot, as are my revolvers and rifles and other target pistols.
 

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It will do absolutely no harm to keep it cocked; if you must, keep some .22 LR empties after your next range session, chamber one so the firing pin will hit an unused portion of the rim and "dry fire" after cleaning.

Yep I usually have an empty that finds it's way into my pocket after a range visit.
 
Ruger had one of their single six 22 revolvers in a little machine that cocked and dry fired it about once a minute when the first came out, ran 24 hours a day for weeks with absolutely no damage to the revolver.

If a 22 rimfire firing pin hits the chamber it is because the design is faulty or someone fit a fireing pin up too long. Should you ding a chamber it is an easy fix.

I could care less what you do, but for me if I want to master a firearm a lot of dry fire is mandatory. I feel that to build a target pistol that cannot be dry fired means it will not be in the winners circle very often. Having many Smith & Wesson hand guns in 22 rim fire I believe they are aware of this fact. There may be some who are naturally better shots than I am and may not benefit from dry-firing as much as I do.

Using snap caps on a semi auto means that every time you cycle the action you have to pick up the snap cap from the floor.
 
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About leaving a spring set...
Do you have an automobile? When you park it you will have some valves open with the springs compressed. Do you remove the valve covers every time you park your car and back out the rocker arm stud? Absolutely not.
A spring is weakened by cycling it.
Imagine a steel lid on a can of beans. You remove the lid with a can opener, eat the beans of course then bend the can lid in half and leave it. Will it weaken by being bent? No. It will be weakened by flattening it back out then bending it again and on and on.
Springs are "tempered" to have elasticity. You can compress them or relax them without weakening them. But cycling them will fatigue them. And, it takes a VERY high number of cycles to bring it to failure.
But hey, don't take my word for it. Check with spring designers and manufacturers. They'll tell you the same thing.
You can leave your firearm cocked and the magazine full without worry of weakening the spring. It's physics not Internet forum nonsense.
 
I just ordered my SW22 yesterday and a Volquartsen fluted/ported barrel last night. Thanks for the heads up on the screw working loose. I have a mount screw on my Carver Custom scope mount on a M&P 9 Pro that will not stay tight even with red Loctite.
 
I have a mount screw on my Carver Custom scope mount on a M&P 9 Pro that will not stay tight even with red Loctite.
Loctite recommends using their primer with their threadlocker on anodized aluminum, pure aluminum, stainless steel and plated parts. Most scope mounts are anodized aluminum. And of course the SW22 Victory is stainless steel.
 
Loctite recommends using their primer with their threadlocker on anodized aluminum, pure aluminum, stainless steel and plated parts. Most scope mounts are anodized aluminum. And of course the SW22 Victory is stainless steel.

Thanks I did not know about the primer just haven't seen it anywhere where I have bought Loctite. Am going to look for some online right now. Don
 
Personally I would just hand tighten the screw in as if you use lock tight you may have problems when you have to clean the gun. I would suggest just a drop of oil on the threads of the screw and tighten it up. Carry a allen key of the correct size in your range gear for it and go shooting.
 
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