I'm not sure where this should be posted, so sorry if I'm in the wrong Forum location. Any how, I have this Ted Williams sears model of the Winchester M94. It has the mount & everything for a 1" diameter scope. I was at a gun shop and they had a scope that said it was for a .22, would fit my mounts. I asked the guy why just a .22? He didn't know. Was it because anything more powerful like a 30-30 would jar something loose in the scope? He said sounds about right. I've never heard of such a thing, but, I didn't buy it. I only would shoot the 30-30 maybe 75 yds., 100 tops. Is this a real thing, or is he less gun smart than me?
Scope for .22 only?
- Thread starter jeffrefrig
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DWalt
Member
Most .22-only scopes have a 3/4" tube. No idea why the person at the gun shop told you it was for a .22. Any old used 1" tube scope will work fine on a .22 rifle, although the parallax is a little different. I have three .22 rifles that I have mounted old Weaver 1" scopes on, two are K2.5s, one is a K4. I think the most expensive one was maybe $15-$20 at a gun show. Why don't you just buy any old 1" Weaver scope off eBay or at a gun show? I wouldn't spend too much for a scope to be used on a M94.
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Ivan the Butcher
Member
I had a nice Leupold Veri-X III RF 2-7x30mm scope on a Kimber hunting 22, I bought it and later wanted an adjustable Objective scope. When I sold it to a gunshop that kind of specialized in 22's, he paid me 50% more than I paid for it 8 to 10 years before!
Full size 22 scopes are the same quality as their "full power" counterparts! The parallax is set for 50 yards is the only difference. Some're great for pellet rifles too!
Ivan
Full size 22 scopes are the same quality as their "full power" counterparts! The parallax is set for 50 yards is the only difference. Some're great for pellet rifles too!
Ivan
MTC(SS)Ret
US Veteran
I don't own a 30-30 but do have a couple 22's. I wouldn't trust a 22 scope on a 30-30 unless it's a quality scope that is built to a higher standard than the bargain scopes you find on Amazon. I tried cheaping out on a 22 scope for my inexpensive bolt action plinker and it failed within the first 20 shots (the reticle came loose and turned 45 degrees). At least I was able to return it and get my $50 back.
I would find a gun shop with knowledgeable salesman who will ask you the right questions before recommending any scope for your rifle. Take the rifle in with you and see if they will mount the scope you choose to make sure it works with your mounts so it's at the proper height for a good cheek weld and you have satisfactory eye relief.
I would find a gun shop with knowledgeable salesman who will ask you the right questions before recommending any scope for your rifle. Take the rifle in with you and see if they will mount the scope you choose to make sure it works with your mounts so it's at the proper height for a good cheek weld and you have satisfactory eye relief.
DWalt
Member
For low magnification scopes such as my K2.5 and K4s, there is hardly any significant differences at effective .22 ranges, say out to 75 yards, that I can detect regarding parallax. I have looked at that. Where it does become more significant is when using scopes of greater magnification.
OP
Thanks all. Appreciate the info. I'm not sure I could get used to a scope mounted at 10-11 o'clock anyways. But I got the rifle pretty cheap. I think all the 30-30 cartridges I got with it are worth more than the gun; they were a throw-in! Wouldn't happen today!
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
I also have a Ted Williams 22 - mine has a Nikon Prostaff Rimfire 3-9x40 scope with a 1" tube. The reticle is set up specifically for 22LR with a typical velocity of 1600 FPS. The cross hair is set up for 50 yards, with additional circles corresponding to 75, 100, 125, and 150 yards. A very nice scope with great glass.
Attachments
I see so many people on the range that have grossly over-scoped their rifles.
For example, recently I saw a young man with a totally stock Ruger 10-22 and a Nightforce scope on it.
There are many fine scope available for not a lot of money, I seem to pick up nice Sightron's and Nikon's as low as 50-75.00
I have a hard time passing up old Weaver K4 & 6's as well older Redfield's either fixed power or 3x9.
When I asked him about it he said he wanted to shoot long range with it. The Nightforce was highly reccomended to him for long range shooting....
Randy
For example, recently I saw a young man with a totally stock Ruger 10-22 and a Nightforce scope on it.
There are many fine scope available for not a lot of money, I seem to pick up nice Sightron's and Nikon's as low as 50-75.00
I have a hard time passing up old Weaver K4 & 6's as well older Redfield's either fixed power or 3x9.
When I asked him about it he said he wanted to shoot long range with it. The Nightforce was highly reccomended to him for long range shooting....
Randy
I put a 4X Bushnell Banner scope on my Golden Model 39 Marlin .22 rifle. It has a 1" tube which is supposed to be superior to 3/4" tube scopes as far as light gathering ability.
.38SuperMan
Member
I have an Athlon 3-12 and Vortex 4-12 AO scopes on a couple of my 22's and have had great success with them. I have a S&W M&P 15-22 with the factory red/green dot on it but have been considering a tactical 1-4 or 1-6 scope to replace the dot. One being a Burris and the other a Vortex. Neither are AO so what are your thoughts for plinking and informal Target shooting up to 50 yards?
Leupold make what they call Rimfire Specials in 4x fixed and 2-7x variable. They are 1" scopes of the same quality as their high power scopes except the parallax is set for 50 or 60 yards. I have used them and highly recommend them. They are not a cheap scope but they are top notch.
Parallax is an almost non issue at low magnification.
For example, if you take a non parallax adjustable 3-9x variable scope with the parallax factory set at 100 yards and then sight on a target at 10-25 yards you'll first discover the image is a lot sharper at 3x and is almost unusable at 9x. If you move your ye side to side behind the scope you'll also discover almost no parallax error. Move the magnification up to 6x you'll see a more error and at 9x you'll see a lot.
9x is also the cut off above which you will almost always see a parallax adjustment on the scope as parallax error becomes a real issue above 9x.
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The vintage steel tube Weaver K6, K4 and K2.5 scopes are among the best scopes ever made in terms of utility and durability.
I'm a big fan of tang sights on a lever action for a number of reasons. They don't ruin the balance and handling of the rifle, they don't get knocked off of zero, combined with multiple apertures or an adjustable aperture they allow the sight to be adjusted for the light conditions.
The vintage Marbles sights are may favorite as they have a ghost ting aperture for short range and or low light and or for moving targets as well as a small aperture for more precision shooting and bright light conditions.
Aperture size is important as having just enough aperture for a bright image really sharpens the focus of the front sight, especially as you get older.
The newer Marbles sights are not bad either (and cost about one half to one third as much as a good vintage sight) and you can also use interchangeable apertures and adjustable apertures on them. They also allow for windage adjustment that the older sights do not.
The Williams receiver sight is also a good option that again allows the use of different or adjustable apertures along with the option of either finger adjustable or a lower profile screw driver adjustable windage and elevation.
Burris also makes a barrel mount for their Fast Fire III red dot sight and its also a decent option as it doesn't add much weight, doesn't interfere with carrying the rifle, and doesn't upset the balance of the rifle.
If you feel you absolutely must mount a scope on a lever gun, keep it small and stay with a small fixed power or small variable 2-7 power scope.
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Trajectory wise, I zero my .30-30 lever guns at 185 yards with 150 gr RN ammo. It gives a trajectory about 4" high at 75 yards, and a maximum of about 4 3/4" high at 100-120 yards, and about 5" low at 215 yards.
With iron sights it lets me hold under the target at closer ranges so that I never obscure the target behind the front sight.
In general with rainbow trajectory cartridges like the .30-30 I recommend zeroing at about 110-120% of the max range you intend to shoot. The bullets drops fast past that max intended range so a little error in range estimate creates a lot of extra drop and you're better off shooting short of your zero than past your zero.
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If you don't intend to shoot past 100 yards, with a 150 gr RN a 125 yd zero will put you about 1.5" high at 75 yards and 1" high at 100 yards and allow plenty of margin for range estimation error and only 5" low at 180 yards. That's with iron sights and a sight height around .8".
With a scope and a sight height around 1.8" and a 125 yard zero, the 75 yard trajectory will only be about 1" high and it will be about 3/4" high at 50 and 100 yards. It will also still only be about 5" low at 180 yards.
The vintage Marbles sights are may favorite as they have a ghost ting aperture for short range and or low light and or for moving targets as well as a small aperture for more precision shooting and bright light conditions.
Aperture size is important as having just enough aperture for a bright image really sharpens the focus of the front sight, especially as you get older.
The newer Marbles sights are not bad either (and cost about one half to one third as much as a good vintage sight) and you can also use interchangeable apertures and adjustable apertures on them. They also allow for windage adjustment that the older sights do not.
The Williams receiver sight is also a good option that again allows the use of different or adjustable apertures along with the option of either finger adjustable or a lower profile screw driver adjustable windage and elevation.
Burris also makes a barrel mount for their Fast Fire III red dot sight and its also a decent option as it doesn't add much weight, doesn't interfere with carrying the rifle, and doesn't upset the balance of the rifle.
If you feel you absolutely must mount a scope on a lever gun, keep it small and stay with a small fixed power or small variable 2-7 power scope.
——
Trajectory wise, I zero my .30-30 lever guns at 185 yards with 150 gr RN ammo. It gives a trajectory about 4" high at 75 yards, and a maximum of about 4 3/4" high at 100-120 yards, and about 5" low at 215 yards.
With iron sights it lets me hold under the target at closer ranges so that I never obscure the target behind the front sight.
In general with rainbow trajectory cartridges like the .30-30 I recommend zeroing at about 110-120% of the max range you intend to shoot. The bullets drops fast past that max intended range so a little error in range estimate creates a lot of extra drop and you're better off shooting short of your zero than past your zero.
—-
If you don't intend to shoot past 100 yards, with a 150 gr RN a 125 yd zero will put you about 1.5" high at 75 yards and 1" high at 100 yards and allow plenty of margin for range estimation error and only 5" low at 180 yards. That's with iron sights and a sight height around .8".
With a scope and a sight height around 1.8" and a 125 yard zero, the 75 yard trajectory will only be about 1" high and it will be about 3/4" high at 50 and 100 yards. It will also still only be about 5" low at 180 yards.
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