Scotch-Brite pads to freshen bead blast 4516-1 ??

[Doc1500]

Pics of 4516-1

I think I figured it out here you go guys.

 

[Doc1500]

Pics of 4516-1

Here is another Close Up Pic

 

[Doc1500]

From the experts who have done brushed finish, reprofiling, please tell me your honest opinions on how I did for my first time . I didn't like the high polish so I decided to do this and also re-profiled because that annoying point that sticks into your middle finger I had to get rid of.

 

[skjos]

Some info for those choosing the blasting route:

Glass Bead Media Testing on 5906 Frame

 

[stansdds]

I think it looks good. It's a pleasing degree of polishing/brushing. Applying a radius to the edge where the trigger guard meets the receiver is nicely done and, in my opinion, something that S&W should have done.

 

[Doc1500]

I think it looks good. It's a pleasing degree of polishing/brushing. Applying a radius to the edge where the trigger guard meets the receiver is nicely done and, in my opinion, something that S&W should have done.

I've heard many people on Forum say stay away from the Dremel and the sanding drum it'll ruin your gun if you don't know what you're doing. I say use it , take your time, go slow. I also used somewhat used sanding drums , or took a new sanding drum and tamed it down a bit. Yes the radius where the trigger guard meets the receiver was necessary it was very annoying and actually painful , I love the grip on it now . As I said take your time go slow. Thanks for the reply and the kudos.

 

[stansdds]

Back when we had longer signature lines, mine read "There is no problem that cannot be made worse with a Dremel. Just because you can do something does not necessarily mean you should do it." The Dremel does have a place in gunsmithing, it is knowing how and when to use it and when to not use it. Smoothing sharp edges is a place for the Dremel.

 

[Doc1500]

Back when we had longer signature lines, mine read "There is no problem that cannot be made worse with a Dremel. Just because you can do something does not necessarily mean you should do it." The Dremel does have a place in gunsmithing, it is knowing how and when to use it and when to not use it. Smoothing sharp edges is a place for the Dremel.

Know when to say when.
Several times I've told myself " put down the dremel and step away from the work bench "

 

[Doc1500]

I love the way the 4516 - 1 came out I believe I'm going to do the same Scotch-Brite to my 4006 TSW CHP.
WHY ? Because I can.
I have already polish the slide to a bright shiny finish but now don't like it. Putting Scotch-Brite to it would work well.

 

[AR_Black]

Several years ago I refurbished several dozen 3rd Gen pistols. After complete disassembly, I used a bead blast cabinet to refinish the frames and slides. With each gun sold, I supplied a sample of three types of Scotch-Brite pads. Below is a cut-and-paste of the instruction sheet sent out with the gun:

- - - - -


S&W 3rd Generation Pistols
January 2013

These guns came with a bead-blast finish over a stainless steel slide.

3-M Scotch-Brite Hand Pads
#7447 General Purpose (Maroon) Grit Equivalent 360-400
#7448 Ultra Fine (Light Grey) Grit Equivalent 800-1000
#7445 Super Fine (White) Grit Equivalent 1200-1500

Do not use the pads over any laser etching or it will be removed.

The Maroon pad is much rougher than the others. Only use it for very bad scratches or severe holster & seat belt rash (last resort).

Start with the white pad and give it a try first. This pad is Super Fine and will work out tiny scratches and blend the final finish. If greater abrasive is needed, then gently try the Light Grey pad. The Light Grey pad should be enough to work out any holster wear marks. If greater abrasive is needed, then VERY GENTLY try the maroon pad.

These pads will leave a "grain" marking on the bead blast finish – scrub too hard and the bead blast finish will be removed. Try to work in just one direction to avoid swirl marks.

Always finish up with the White Super Fine pad to blend any repairs with the original finish.

The pads will leave residue on your gun. Wipe it off and give a light coat of oil when you are finished.

Remember, harder is NOT better. If you really mess it up, these guns can be professionally bead blasted back to the original finish.

 

[TTSH]

Several years ago I refurbished several dozen 3rd Gen pistols. After complete disassembly, I used a bead blast cabinet to refinish the frames and slides. With each gun sold, I supplied a sample of three types of Scotch-Brite pads. Below is a cut-and-paste of the instruction sheet sent out with the gun...

If sounds like you are recommending a certain amount of hand work with the Scotch-Brite pads even after a bead blasting job. Can you explain why that is recommended?

I'm working that backwards on one of my recent used 3rd Gen acquisitions. In other words, I'm using the Scotch-Brite pads to fix all the minor flaws and scratches prior to an anticipated bead blasting job at some point down the road. It actually came out pretty darn satisfactory with the Scotch-Brite pads alone so I'm in no great rush.

I'm still having a little trouble getting the time-polished edges back to a clean, non-shiny, factory-finished look. Time to maybe try the sandpaper trick.

 

[Doc1500]

If sounds like you are recommending a certain amount of hand work with the Scotch-Brite pads even after a bead blasting job. Can you explain why that is recommended?

I'm working that backwards on one of my recent used 3rd Gen acquisitions. In other words, I'm using the Scotch-Brite pads to fix all the minor flaws and scratches prior to an anticipated bead blasting job at some point down the road. It actually came out pretty darn satisfactory with the Scotch-Brite pads alone so I'm in no great rush.

I'm still having a little trouble getting the time-polished edges back to a clean, non-shiny, factory-finished look. Time to maybe try the sandpaper trick.

Doing my 4516 - 1, several spots that had bad scratches I use 600 grit wet sandpaper and then finished up with Scotch-Brite.

 

[TTSH]

Doing my 4516 - 1, several spots that had bad scratches I use 600 grit wet sandpaper and then finished up with Scotch-Brite.

Fortunately, no bad scratches... just some shiny edges that I would like to tone down.

 

[AR_Black]

If sounds like you are recommending a certain amount of hand work with the Scotch-Brite pads even after a bead blasting job. Can you explain why that is recommended?

No pads should be necessary after a good bead blast job. I sent out pads with the refurbished pistols so the customer could touch up their pistol later if necessary; e.g. touching up wear due to holster rash.

 

[Green Frog]

Surface finish repair

I just bought this 639 for a project, and although the scratches on the left side of the frame were shown in the ad, I'm looking at them a little more critically and wondering whether there is any way to "spot treat" those places, or whether a trip to the blast cabinet is the only solution. Please note that glare in my iPad photo actually disguises some of the damage.

TIA ~ Froggie

 

[Green Frog]

I took a couple of closer shots where the scratches are the worst... while the slide is in pretty good shape (of course, since I don't plan to use it) but the area round the slide stop shows assembly and disassembly marks that look like it was done by a drunk named Bubba.

Froggie

 

[armorer951]

Here's some great data on using blasting media to remove defects and replicate the factory finish. I rehabbed an old 5906 several years ago, but just used 60-80 mesh silica. turned out great. The silica particles are more "rounded" than jagged, so they leave a softer finish than more aggressive media.

Glass Bead Media Testing on 5906 Frame

 

[Jerry in SC]

For hand rubbed finishes, the best knife makers use wet or dry paper glued to a steel plate but some use basswood.

That's how they avoid making those "fish hooks" in the finish as you run the paper down the surface. They clamp the knife down to eliminate any movement. I've seen high end shotguns prepped in a similar manner.