SD9VE Trigger Pull

Thank you very much for your reply! I will definitely watch the video again. To make sure I'm understanding you correctly, you used all of the apex kit except you used the original striker spring (the large one?).

Yes, that is correct. You could try the Apex striker spring and see if it works for you, but like I said, I wasn't getting 100% reliability with it. Real close, though.
 
The Apex kit helped my SD9VEW considerably. However, the trigger still isn't smooth. It's easier to pull now, but there's a lot of "stiction." I don't know if there's an easy way to improve this.

Have you tried smoothing the side of the trigger bar that rubs on the frame? Then clean any grit and put in grease.

Also, have a look at the interaction of the trigger bar front prong with the striker blocker. Look at it through the magazine opening. A little grease will help.

Worked wonders on my SD9VE.
 
I know some people won't like this, but here's what I did to fix the bulging on the frame where the trigger bar pushes on it when trigger is pulled.

I bent the prong that rides over the safety bock in some because it was riding on the outside of the plunger which pushed the trigger bar hard against the frame.

Now the prong rides dead center on the plunger.

I also bent the trigger bar slightly in away from the frame.


I actually had to take the Apex striker spring out because it was to light of a trigger pull for my liking after doing this.

Now the frame does not protrude 1/8 out when trigger is pulled, it doesn't even move out at all now.

It was trial and error, bend a little try the gun ect...
 
I know some people won't like this, but here's what I did to fix the bulging on the frame where the trigger bar pushes on it when trigger is pulled.

I bent the prong that rides over the safety bock in some because it was riding on the outside of the plunger which pushed the trigger bar hard against the frame.

Now the prong rides dead center on the plunger.

I also bent the trigger bar slightly in away from the frame.

I actually had to take the Apex striker spring out because it was too light of a trigger pull for my liking after doing this.

Now the frame does not protrude 1/8" out when trigger is pulled, it doesn't even move out at all now.

It was trial and error, bend a little try the gun ect...

Thanks, you are the first person to confirm my assertion that the trigger bar rubs on, and moves, the frame. (You may have been the person who told me how to see the safety blocker through the magazine area in the grip). Since I may be sending my SD9 in for another issue I'll stick with smoothing and lubing the trigger bar where it rubs the frame.

I think, but can't be sure, that the biggest contributor to trigger pull is the final cocking of the striker. I will live with that since I'm not match shooting. (Is that final pull the reason they call these guns "Double Action"?)
 
SD40VE trigger pull

I love my S&W 40. But the only thing i don't like is the trigger it takes way to much pressure to make it Fire to me & is throwing off my accuracy is there any good & on the cheaper side triggers for this gun ?
 
I love my S&W 40. But the only thing i don't like is the trigger it takes way to much pressure to make it Fire to me & is throwing off my accuracy is there any good & on the cheaper side triggers for this gun ?

Polish the side of the trigger bar that rubs on the plastic frame, then clean it and put in some grease.

Then be sure the safety blocker, the round piston moved by the front prong of the trigger bar, is well lubed, again with grease.

Now, work on your grip. Be sure the grip is well-seated in the web of your thumb and your hand is well up on the grip. Grip with your trigger hand as if someone is trying to take the gun from you but keep your trigger finger completely relaxed and lying along the outside of the trigger guard, just parallel to, but below, the slide. Then use your other hand to envelope yur trigger hand with the thumb pointing forward on the frame. Your trigger finger should play no part in holding the gun, NONE.

Now, with that firm grip, use your trigger finger to squeeze the trigger while it plays absolutely no part in holding the gun. Dry fire in a safe place until you can pull the trigger without disturbing your aim.

Once you can squeeze the trigger without changing the aiming point, try relaxing a bit from the white-knuckle grip and practice until it becomes a natural process. The white-knuckle grip must go away or it will cause your hands to shake. Ignore the slight take-up at the start of trigger movement, it's just the trigger bar moving to contact the sear, just part of the design.

Remember, your two hands hold the gun, the trigger finger just squeezes the trigger.
 
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I know some people won't like this, but here's what I did to fix the bulging on the frame where the trigger bar pushes on it when trigger is pulled.

I bent the prong that rides over the safety bock in some because it was riding on the outside of the plunger which pushed the trigger bar hard against the frame.

Now the prong rides dead center on the plunger.

I also bent the trigger bar slightly in away from the frame.


I actually had to take the Apex striker spring out because it was to light of a trigger pull for my liking after doing this.

Now the frame does not protrude 1/8 out when trigger is pulled, it doesn't even move out at all now.

It was trial and error, bend a little try the gun ect...

-I bent the finger out on mine just a little bit a few months or so back so it would hit the striker plunger more in the center. But luckily on mine, the frame never pushed out as bad as yours. It still moves slightly, but only if you really look at it while pulling the trigger. That little peek in the mag well really does show you what's going on, doesn't it?

L8R,
Matt
 
-I bent the finger out on mine just a little bit a few months or so back so it would hit the striker plunger more in the center. But luckily on mine, the frame never pushed out as bad as yours. It still moves slightly, but only if you really look at it while pulling the trigger. That little peek in the mag well really does show you what's going on, doesn't it?

L8R,
Matt

Yes, a great way to see what is going on. My frame bulge is easier to feel than see but since my SD9 may be going back to S&W for a look, I don't want to bend anything yet.

I did verify, however, that the blocker is cleared well before the striker is released so the alignment can wait. I think S&W felt the same way, no need to spend a few cents to make the tab alignment perfect.
 
If you remove the back plate and striker assembly then put the slide on the frame you can look into the striker channel and see how the plunger is moved up and out of the way. It essentially moves completely out of the way right at the last little bit of travel before the sear drops out of the way.

Bill
 
If you remove the back plate and striker assembly then put the slide on the frame you can look into the striker channel and see how the plunger is moved up and out of the way. It essentially moves completely out of the way right at the last little bit of travel before the sear drops out of the way.

Bill

Glock has available a back plate for armorers that is only half height, measuring from the top. It allows the striker to work normally. It's designed just for that purpose.

If I could get a second one for my SD9 I'd cut it to see exactly that. The downward movement is not great and when you watch it with the slide off you really can't determine exactly where the striker is released. You just can't see enough when you peek in through the clearance area under a standard back plate.

Also, I'd really really like to see just how much a trigger pull retracts the striker before it's released. I think this additional pull is why they call these guns "Double Action".

I've heard from several sources that common folks like me will never be able to order SD_VE parts.
 
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Yeah, any pistol that continues to pull the striker back until it releases is double action. This includes glock.
 
I originally bought my first SD9VE because is fit my hands better than any of my GLOCKS, and at about 1/2 the price.

I was so impressed with it's ergonomics, reliability & accuracy that I bought a second one within 10 days.

The more you use em the slicker the triggers get and a bit lighter too.

Absolutely agree.
 
Just bought a new SD9VE, but I haven't shot it yet. I wanted something I could put in the car or truck, and not have to worry about it too much. With a healthy dose of arthritis in my hands, I wonder about the trigger pull? Any thoughts?
I noticed that you had asked this question a few years back, but in case you still monitor it, or if anyone else should need this information: I found that by purchasing the SD Spring Kit, and replacing the Trigger, (both Apex Tactical), that the recoil is lessened by about 10% and the trigger pull is much smoother, down to about 5lbs.
 
Just a note to this "old" thread. Stop the whining and the madness...and for the love f all that is good and holy. Stop wasting money. The is no need to do a darn thing to this trigger. Apex springs, guide rods and triggers are ****, a waste, can damage the pistol and VOID your S&W warranty. How about this...LEARN the trigger on your (all & any, not just the SD) firearm instead. I had about 30 rounds through my SD9VE before today. Yet I fired a 98% (49/50) for my retired LEOSA qualification. The one I threw was all my own fault too. The SD series needs nothing. No wonder Glock sued S&W. They made it better and cheaper.
 
Just a note to this "old" thread. Stop the whining and the madness...and for the love f all that is good and holy. Stop wasting money. The is no need to do a darn thing to this trigger. Apex springs, guide rods and triggers are ****, a waste, can damage the pistol and VOID your S&W warranty. How about this...LEARN the trigger on your (all & any, not just the SD) firearm instead. I had about 30 rounds through my SD9VE before today. Yet I fired a 98% (49/50) for my retired LEOSA qualification. The one I threw was all my own fault too. The SD series needs nothing. No wonder Glock sued S&W. They made it better and cheaper.

Amen to that. The reason for the 8# trigger pull is that it's a self defense weapon. You don't want to carry a gun with a light trigger pull. If you are looking for a competition shooter, this isn't it.
 
Sd9ve Trigger pull

I have had my sd9ve for about a year now and at first was very hesitant due to all the talk about the trigger. I purchased one anyway and to be honest i dont find the trigger heavy at all i think it is an awesome gun especially for the price. I was already looking into all the upgrades such as as spring kit and trigger kit due to all the youtube vids lol and im glad i did not purchase those. My recommendation would be just sites and some nice grips other than that awesome shooter have no complaints no problems. By the way i am new to the smith and wesson forum and gun family as well. :)
 
I have had my sd9ve for about a year now and at first was very hesitant due to all the talk about the trigger. I purchased one anyway and to be honest i dont find the trigger heavy at all i think it is an awesome gun especially for the price. I was already looking into all the upgrades such as as spring kit and trigger kit due to all the youtube vids lol and im glad i did not purchase those. My recommendation would be just sites and some nice grips other than that awesome shooter have no complaints no problems. By the way i am new to the smith and wesson forum and gun family as well. :)

Welcome to both joshuar , I've had mine for 3 1/2 years shoot it a lot 3,000 rds at least. Took a relatively new shooter to the range we rented a G 19 & had my SD9. This new shooter liked mine much better than the Glock.
 
I too purchased the Apex spring kit. It made quite a difference and I am very happy with it. I also installed the Glock style trigger, I did not notice much difference but I do like this style trigger. I have run about 100 rounds through it (SD40SE) with out a hiccup. I am very satisfied.
 

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