serial number help
- Thread starter jakenov3
- Start date
A Model 10 of that vintage should have either a "C" or "D" prefix on the SN, so it sounds like it may have been removed, although I thought that SNs at that time ran from the front to rear of the butt and that a square-to-round conversion would involve removing material primarily from the rear. What's stamped inside the frame cutout?
With regard to legality, you're probably aware that it's a felony to deface the serial number or to be in possession of a gun with the SN removed or defaced. Assuming that there's a complete and legible SN in the frame cutout that may (repeat, may) be enough to keep things legal, but IANAL and I sure wouldn't make that assumption without getting it from someone who really knows.
With regard to legality, you're probably aware that it's a felony to deface the serial number or to be in possession of a gun with the SN removed or defaced. Assuming that there's a complete and legible SN in the frame cutout that may (repeat, may) be enough to keep things legal, but IANAL and I sure wouldn't make that assumption without getting it from someone who really knows.
No, not under the stocks. Swing open the cylinder and look at the portion of the frame that's exposed by doing that - you should see the model number and (I think - not sure exactly when they started putting the SN there) the serial number stamped there.
Based on that, I think you've got a serious problem. The 10-6 was produced from 1962 to 1976. The early models would have had a "C" prefix, which changed to a "D" prefix in 1968. With the digits of 603162, your gun presumably could be either from the very early production (1962) in which case it should have the "C" prefix, or from 1974 with a "D" prefix. But I don't see any way it could have originally had only those six digits.
At this point you need some counsel from someone who understands the legal situation and what your best options might be, and that's not me. In your shoes, I'd be inclined to think first about getting ahold of who I got the gun from and un-doing the trade, if that's possible. Whatever you do, I'd proceed with all deliberate haste.
At this point you need some counsel from someone who understands the legal situation and what your best options might be, and that's not me. In your shoes, I'd be inclined to think first about getting ahold of who I got the gun from and un-doing the trade, if that's possible. Whatever you do, I'd proceed with all deliberate haste.
Pictures of the bottom of the butt and inside the frame would sure help us with figuring this out for you. And you do realize your forum name could be misinterpreted??
I'm certain it has something to do with the month of November......
I'm certain it has something to do with the month of November......Autococker07
US Veteran
I would let the other party know that his options were limited to
A-Immediate reversal of the entire trade (I'd say in <24 hours)
B-Deal with the law enforcement agency that will have his information at the 25 hour point.
You will risk losing your gun, but the quicker it is turned over to LE, the less of an accomplice you look like..... and the better chance they have of returning your missing property (I would also inquire about reporting the gun you traded stolen at the same time you turn over the doctored one).
You may be able to skate by, stay out of trouble and never be noticed, but all it takes is one knowledgeble individual and you are instantly suspected of something fishy......
Good luck....
I've read of cases of BATFE issuing a new, unique serial number to be stamped on guns that 'lost' their original by a non-intent means. Also some of the early military arms that were defaced intentionally because they said U.S. Property. It's a sticky situation and you are at their mercy. If a legit gunsmith forgot to restamp the letter 40+ years ago, most likely the BATFE will work with you to resolve it.
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