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mrcabinet2122

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Some of you may remember my post a while back about the sad Mdl. 19 that I traded for. Well the shop got it done sooner than expected, so I was able to pick her up today. The pitting on the right side was worse than I originally thought, so I opted for their satin finish. It doesn't hide all the defects, but it sure does make them less noticeable. Fortunately, I had time to restore the stocks while it was out, so I put them on as soon as I got home. I've attached before and after pics for comparison.

Is it a Ford's or Turnbull level job? Nope! But for a shooter, and at a fraction of the cost, it's works just fine for me.
 

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Nice job on that revolver. I think it came out fine !!!
I had this model 10 bead blasted then reblued. Came out a matte blue.
The model 64 was bead blasted also then the hammer / trigger and screw heads polished.
 

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Most of the time and expense of a typical gun refinish is he result of hand polishing prior to hot bluing. The process is far simpler if bead blasting the gun's surface replaces the tedious hand polishing. The bluing operation itself is the easiest part of the job. Bead blasting takes very little time, can be done by almost anyone, and provides a pleasing matte finish similar to what is seen on postwar S&W revolvers from the factory.
 
Thanks all - I'm happy with it!

The grips were stripped with lacquer thinner, cleaned up, and then had about 10 coats of real spar wiping varnish applied.
 
It looks great and they didn't mess up the fit of the sideplate, often the sign of a poor refinish. They must have done the bead blasting with the sideplate attached, they knew what they were doing.
Probably. You can bead blast the frame with the side plate and side plate screws in place. I have done that. Just blue the screws afterward along with everything else.

Instead of bluing, you can also use the spray and bake finishes after bead blasting. I have done many guns that way.
 
I'll tell you what!

Your shop's satin blue is VASTLY superior to S&W's---theirs of the late 40's early-mid 50's---which is the latest I know anything about.

That said, given it was bead blasted, my knee-jerk reaction is it must have been done with very fine beads. I had a Master Grade conversion done on a Colt Government Model by Wilson Combat. Both the slide and frame were bead blasted, and then blued (the slide)---and plated (the frame)----nickel/cadmium(?)---some white metal. The result was an absolutely FLAT finish (reflecting no light at all). My reaction upon seeing yours was it's the shiniest bead blasted finish I've ever seen----and looks GOOD!!

Ralph Tremaine
 
I'm going to call the shop on Monday to get more details on the process they used. I should have asked more when I picked it up, but I was running on limited time.

My guess is that they bead blasted the whole gun, then worked a series of polishing wheels over the flats and other areas, most likely finishing with Scotch Brite wheels to give the satin finish. They're definitely satin - not high polished, nor matte like bead blasted.
 

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Looks like good, careful work by someone who understood what an S&W revolver should look like. Nice job, from what I see. I too would be much happier with the revolver after refinishing. :)
 

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