Shield Magazine Release

Just looked inside my M&Ps and the entire magazine release button assy. appears to polymer. Am I missing something?
Yes, you are. Take the mag release out. Stick a magnet on it and you'll that there's steel in there. Also, if you look closely at the actual protrusion that catches the mag, you can see that it's metal.
 
IMO, just going by knowledge and not claiming im 100% right either, lol.

I would think that since the mag is not polymer then the mag release also wouldnt be polymer. Because over time the polymer mag release would wear and then the mag would never stay in the weapon. It would seem to me the mag release would have to have something "hardened" somewhat or made of something harder than polymer or plastic. At least something hard to match the material the mag is made of.

I mean it only makes sense. But technically there is a bunch of parts within the Shield that can rust.
 
Smitty357,

What is this office spray/ teflon you speak of?

Now I'm worried about mine .....

DR
 
Did u look at the firing pin or anything up in the general slide area? There are other small things inside the frame to worry about that actually can rust. Just saying
I understand. That's why I clean with CLP.
 
The mag button is a MIM steel part. Remove the button and clean with oil and apply a Teflon spray. Don't forget to clean the channel of all rust, apply oil in the channel with a Q-tip. Reassemble and enjoy.
 
It doesn't look like MIM to me, but I'm not a metallurgist. It is definitely a metal part encased in plastic.
Pretty safe to assume this applies to my M&P40c too? Not just the Shield?
I'd imagine all M&P mag release button assemblies are made the same.
 
Pretty safe to assume this applies to my M&P40c too? Not just the Shield?
I'd imagine all M&P mag release button assemblies are made the same.
They seem to be made with the same process, but the Shield and regular M&P line are different shapes.

The Shield is not reversible where the regular M&P is.
 
For those that dont believe it can rust.

Do us a favor and drop ur Shield into some salt water for a few minutes. Take it out and "maybe" blow dry it (dont clean it), cleaning would be cheating during this test.

In a day or so when u clean ur pistol, let us know how much rust u see inside.

This is just an example of how the weapon acts with human sweat. When u sweat on ur weapon, u dont always take it apart and clean it. U usually wear it a few days and never think about rust. Then oneday u clean it and u notice the rust........Well there u have it.

This is why its a good idea to clean ur weapon every week or so.
 
Last edited:
After all the above mentioned cleaning and oiling is complete try this out: N82Tactical.com This is one of the most comfortable IWB CC Holster I've ever seen. Not only that, it separates your body (hence sweat) completely from the gun...
 
After all the above mentioned cleaning and oiling is complete try this out: N82Tactical.com This is one of the most comfortable IWB CC Holster I've ever seen. Not only that, it separates your body (hence sweat) completely from the gun...

Appreciate the info. Keep in mind though, the "combat cut" of the hybrid "Crossbreed type" IWB holsters serves two purposes. 1) Unobtrusive access to your grip 2) so your magazine release button is not directly pressing against the inside of holster material increasing the possibility of inadvertent mag release while carrying/sitting, etc... This latter point is probably why we're seeing some rust in this area.
 
Shield Rust

I passed on one Shield before buying another because of the serial number appearance...

Number looked like it was electro-pencil engraved and very, very rough. On closer inspection the serial number plate was rusted badly and deep into the actual numbers (brand new in the box)!

Dealer was working on removing it with a brush and some type of solvent when I moved on....
 
Easy fix. Remove rust and purchase a Hybrid holster. Comfortable and keeps sweat of your pistol.
 
i use a dual clip leather/kydex iwb holster. i does have a combat cut in it. i'll deal with periodically checking my mag release for rust rather than having an obstructed grip without the combat cut. it's just more comfortable of a draw with it, so i'll deal with it.
 
I just took my mag release button out and it had little rust spots all over it. fairly simple to take out and put back in so it's worth doing that for a little maintenance every once in a while.
 
I had the same problem with mine. I took the release button out. Pry spring off button, push halfway through, pry over second area, push out. The release button looks like polymer, no magnet handy, but judging by it's weight, it is steel. Also if you look in the hole it came out of, on the trigger side there is some steel. I just pop the mag release button out when I clean my pistol (it's my EDC, so it doesn't go more than 2 weeks without it) and wipe it off good, put a drop or 2 of CLP on it and on the frame inside the hole and put it back in. Kind of a pain, but I'm very fond of the pistol and other than that, and the rear sight being almost welded on I'm very happy with my purchase
 
I am having the same problem to this apparently old issue. Just got off the phone with S&W and they don't sell the button as a replacement part. The lady said I would have to send the pistol in to get it fixed. :(
 
It is actually really easy to remove with a flat heat screwdriver. Watch a video on youtube showing how to do it and then just brush the part, apply some clp or something of the like and you are good to go.
 
The metal tip of the mag release can grind heavily against the magazine catch hole when a fully loaded magazine is inserted into the Shield. Some mags exhibit this behavior while others do not. That grinding/pressure is probably scraping off any protective coating on the metal tip, exposing it to sweat. I would use a light viscosity grease (e.g. Milcomm PTFE based TW25B) on it rather than an oil. Oil will just migrate away from the part.

Other known rust areas on the Shield are under the rear sight and the on edges of the striker block safety hole. That hole is drilled after the slide has been melonited. But do not use grease in those areas... just a drop of oil. Be fanatical about verifying your striker block safety is functioning correctly.
 
Last edited:

Latest posts

Back
Top