Shield Plus - Failure to Feed - RESOLVED

... I was surprised to find the Shield Plus to have in my opinion very similar (mild) recoil.

The Shield Plus I was shooting was the PC version with ported barrel, perhaps that makes a difference.

.

I own the Shield 9 v1. I shoot it fine and the trigger doesn't bother me a bit.

I am most interested in mild recoil and so I am considering a ported barrel.

Do you recommend the 3.1" or the 4" barrel ported? From what I've read the ported barrel has the biggest effect on the longer barrel.

Your thoughts/suggestions?
 
If it were mine I call S&W, get a shipping label and send it back. Alternatively the shop where you got it might do that for you. I've only had to send one gun in, but they had it back in my hands w/i 10 working days fixed.
I can tell you from experience at work to send it in yourself. This way you can call S&W to check on the gun's progress. If the LGS sends it in, should you call to check, the mfr won't tell you anything since you didn't send it in, & you're not an employee of the LGS. GARY
 
I own the Shield 9 v1. I shoot it fine and the trigger doesn't bother me a bit.

I am most interested in mild recoil and so I am considering a ported barrel.

Do you recommend the 3.1" or the 4" barrel ported? From what I've read the ported barrel has the biggest effect on the longer barrel.

Your thoughts/suggestions?

Both the 1.0 Shield and the Shield Plus PC that I shot had the 3.1" barrel, and in my opinion the Plus had noticeably less recoil using the same ammo.

It would be interesting to shoot both the ported and unported versions of the Plus as that's the only way to say if the lessor recoil was due to porting or other design changes from the old 1.0 versions.

I've never shot anything with a ported 4" barrel so I can't comment on that.
 
Bummer.

I just picked up a Shield Plus and it feed all the 124 NATO White box I could bear to fire.
It is very tight getting in the last round in both mags (13&10).
I ran 4 mags starting with a fully loaded 13 round with one in the pipe and then pulling the 10 round out of my pocket simulating something bad was happening and the Plus was flawless. I do plan to carry some Sig 124 V-Crown JHP. I will try and go out today and see if I get the same results. I do assume it will cycle those rounds as well. I also have a Shield 1.0 that has just over 1000 rounds with zero problems and I am so sorry to here your Plus is having problems.
 
I had an instance of FTF with my Shield EZ, I tightened my left hand grip a wee bit and so far no problems.. Having said this if it happens on my next visit I'll start drinking again.
 
The Morning After - an update on Failure to FEED

All,

Took the shield plus to the range yesterday to "exercise" the little beast. It was thoroughly cleaned and well oiled per the manual. In other words, ready in all respects. Without any gripe of any kind, it successfully digested the following ammo in the sequence listed:
* 50 of Aguila 124 grain
* 60 Federal "red box" 115 grain std pressure
* 100 of 115 grain +P (I forget the brand)
* 50 of Norma 124 grain
* 25 of Hornady 115 grain flex tip critical defense

At no point during the session did I stop to clean or to apply more oil. For the Norma and Hornady, I ran the pistol at 10+1 and 13+1 respectively, topping off the mags after chambering the first round. It shot like a champ. One observation .. the gun did not like chambering the first round when I inserted the mag first, then racked the slide. When I locked the slide, inserted a mag, and let the slide "slingshot" into battery it worked perfectly. Every time.

I think the Failure to FEED problem was partly related to my grip. I checked myself in the mirror, and noticed my support hand thumb *may* have been riding the slide. So ... I moved my thumb down to between the take down lever & the slide lock. I might just make this change to how I shoot all my pistols so I have one, consistent grip across all platforms. Time will tell.

And just to make my range trip a bit interesting, I brought out my Mosin Nagant M44 carbine. I have to say, I was pleasantly surprised at the number of folks giving that old girl the love she deserves. There's definitely "something" about a 1945-vintage rifle constructed of Wood and Steel, the way The Almighty intended.

In a couple weeks, my sporting club is having a steel plate shoot. I plan to run the Shield plus at this event, see how it behaves, but I believe that as long as I do my part, it should be fine.

Thanks for listening.
 
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perfect example of why you should have someone else shoot your gun when having issues, even with experienced shooters it could be the indian not the arrow..
 
Did riding the slide with your thumb cause a failure to go into battery? That's a little different than a failure to feed, which is a bigger problem usually not as easy to fix.

Checking one's grip on a new gun with dry fire/snap caps at home is always wise before going to the range, especially with a smaller than familiar gun.

I really abhor taking a new gun to the range and having it gack in any way. The loss of confidence in the gun/ammo takes away from the pleasure, then there's the time and effort to diagnose and cure the problem.

I spend less time with problems by familiarizing myself with the gun at home first, and breaking it in the close equivalent of about 500 rounds shot. They are smooth and friction free (reduced) before ever firing a round. Yes, I have a modicum of patience.

I strip and thoroughly clean all parts. I polish all mating surfaces with some 800 or 1000 grit wet dry sandpaper. This includes slide rails, breech face, feed ramp, chamber, barrel lugs, barrel hood locking surfaces. I usually polish trigger components when I know how to get to them (500 dry fire trigger pulls can accomplish close to the same results). I polish the inside of the barrel to smooth it out for less fouling and easier cleaning. I eliminate sharp edges, like the extractor and ejector. If there is a striker plunger safety I polish that and the tunnel within which it rides.

I clean everything again, apply a film of grease because it stays in place. Then I run two sessions of dry fires of about 150 each with full slide action, using dummies once in a while (while watching TV). I leave the slide locked back when not using the gun to condition the recoil springs. I leave the mags fully loaded to condition their springs.

Finally, 5-7 days after getting the gun, I go for live fire. The last 13 handguns on which I have followed this procedure have had no problems—first time or 20th or 100th.

The 3-4 hours it takes me to do this is part of my bonding with the new gun, and it so far has been a guarantee I will not run into problems when I shoot it.

Having experienced problems with many new guns like Sigs, ParaOrdnance, KelTec, AR's, I know today's mass manufacturing methods and QC are not sufficient to produce 100% functional guns every time. I can feel the grit, machine and tooling marks and friction in a new mass produced gun. I fix that.

Sure you can shoot 400 rounds through it and it will gradually improve to where you want it, but the expense in time and ammo will still not produce as smooth or reliable a gun as a polished one—from the first shot, with much less expense.
 
Thanks for sharing your experience openly and honestly. With any new platform the possibility exists that the techniques that worked flawlessly before, even with something very similar, may need adjustment.
 
Keeping it Honest

Thanks for sharing your experience openly and honestly. With any new platform the possibility exists that the techniques that worked flawlessly before, even with something very similar, may need adjustment.

As a gun owner and 2A enthusiast, others who come behind me cannot learn if I don't give the whole story. Also .. this experience taught me something too, so win-win-win all around.

Best regards,

- Brad
 
Thanks for sharing your experience openly and honestly. With any new platform the possibility exists that the techniques that worked flawlessly before, even with something very similar, may need adjustment.
And this is why I avoid any new model for at least a year until the bugs are worked out. New car model, new electronic device, or new gun. Anybody remember the Sig 365 problem? GARY.
 
This just confirms my choice to abandon the high thumbs/thumbs forward grip styles. I own several different types of semi-auto pistol, some that are ideal for classic IDPA grip, and others that are all slide and no frame where that just does not work. I also suspect that I do not have the strength (especially in my skinny wrists) for the IDPA grip as described in this piece. https://www.luckygunner.com/lounge/whats-wrong-grip/# So it's a thumbs down grip for me, I'm more accurate and it keeps my appendages away from the moving parts. Much to my surprise, it is what they teach over at Front Sight.
 

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