Shield slide lock

FLSwampy

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Hey all,

I have been browsing these forums for a while. I am a first time firearm owner (soon to be) and have decided upon the M&P Shield for my first firearm for range use and cc. I shot it before and loved it. Eventually I want to get a full size M&P9, it was an absolute dream to shoot, but the Shield was the perfect cc firearm from everything I have seen.

Anyway, I found a local gun shop near me that will match a good online price for the Shield. I was inspecting the firearm yesterday and noticed that the slide lock was EXTREMELY stiff. It needed to be manhandled to get the slide to lock open, and I couldn't for the life of me get it to release into the closed position. Is this part of the normal stiffness that goes away after breaking in the firearm, or should I stay away from that particular Shield?
 
Hey all,

I have been browsing these forums for a while. I am a first time firearm owner (soon to be) and have decided upon the M&P Shield for my first firearm for range use and cc. I shot it before and loved it. Eventually I want to get a full size M&P9, it was an absolute dream to shoot, but the Shield was the perfect cc firearm from everything I have seen.

Anyway, I found a local gun shop near me that will match a good online price for the Shield. I was inspecting the firearm yesterday and noticed that the slide lock was EXTREMELY stiff. It needed to be manhandled to get the slide to lock open, and I couldn't for the life of me get it to release into the closed position. Is this part of the normal stiffness that goes away after breaking in the firearm, or should I stay away from that particular Shield?

It's not unusual for a slide-lock to be stiff out of the box. It's much easier to release when there's ammo in the magazine, too. Very difficult otherwise, especially when new.
 
The slide lock lever should move freely up and down. The slight spring tension keeps the lever down, and when the last round fires, the mag follower pushes the lever up, to lock the slide open. To manually lock the slide open, the slide must be fully racked back, and the slide lock pushed up and held up, while releasing the slide to rest against the slide lock. The Shield has 16 pound recoil springs, which I have measured that requires 19-20 pounds of pressure, to fully pull the slide back. This is why you are having problems, as you are holding the gun, pulling the slide back, and trying to push the slide lock up, all at the same time. It takes a little getting used to it, before you will manage it effectively. Another way to lock the slide back is to insert an empty magazine, and rack the slide fully back. The mag follower will lock the slide for you

The normal way to release the lock is to slightly pull the slide back, the release will drop down, and the slide can be released to move forward. It is a slide lock, not a slide release, which means it was not designed to release the slide by pushing the lever down. On the Shield, the lever is smaller than on the other M&Ps', which also makes it harder to use as a slide release. However if you have strong thumb strength, you may be able to push the button down for a release. You could also polish the mating surfaces between the slide and lock, which would make the lock release easier.

Bob
 
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First of all, it will loosen up within 200-300 rounds. Now, some of us recommend releasing the slide by pulling back on the slide and letting go. The User Manual calls it a "slide lock" rather than a "slide release" and recommends the above technique. This is a two handed technique and not advocated by all... and their argument is not without it's logic.

If this is your first pistol, you need to do some reading, listening and instruction before concealed carry. And practice! It's important to do it soon because we all encourage you to be adept at concealed carry.
 
Thanks everyone, good to know that it will loosen up. I was trained to always rerack the slide overhand, so no worries there. I was mostly interested in the slide lock/release for occasions when I am not reloading.

I am doing research and ensuring that I will be carrying safely. All I'm waiting on now is for my ccw to come in the mail (in Florida its taking FOREVER). I'm looking forward to my first range day with it, want to put at least 100-200 rounds through it.
 
I've got about 300 rounds thru my shield and re-racking the slide is still tough as nails. I'm also questioning the reliability of this gun. Today I had a bunch of failures. Mostly to eject, but a few failure to fire. I ran the same ammo thru a Bersa 9MM CC and had no problems.

I can't figure out the other problem. On last shot the slide racks open, I remove spent mag and re-insert a new one. Sometimes the gun will go into full battery and other times it will not, I have to rack the slide manually. What am I missing?
 
The gun was not designed to release the slide when the mag is inserted. However on some guns, the slide lock does not fully engage and when a full mag is inserted, this causes upward pressure on the slide, and the lock may release. Again it was not designed to do this, and normally it occurs only with forceful insertion of the mag.

Explain the failure to eject. Does the casing stay in the chamber, get partially pulled out, or jams between the chamber and breach face (stovepipe)? Failure to fire can be ammo related. Guns are different and one gun can fire certain ammo, while another has issues. Just the nature of guns.

Are you an experienced shooter, without many gun related issues, or? Just looking for causes. FTE issues can come from allowing excessive muzzle flip.

Bob
 
That's why I was asking, half the time I insert a new mag the slide would release. Don't know what's going there. Failure to eject, the casing was still in the chamber, partially pulled out, no stovepipe.

I am experienced shooter, have rarely had issues with any of my guns. Thanks for the help.
 
Then the problem is with the extractor. It is not fully pulling the casing out. See if the extractor moves easily, if so the spring could be broken. It should have strong resistance before you can move it. It the problem continues, contact S&W. They will have you ship the gun back for repair. Could be a defective extractor claw. Can't diagnose it through the forum, without actually seeing it.

Bob
 
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