Shooting nickel plated revolvers

[1sailor]

Today I ran into a pretty good deal on a 27-2, nickel plated. I'm not really familiar with nickel revolvers and I'm wondering if they're okay to shoot or will the finish get bad quickly if I do. It's a beautiful piece, probably 98+% metal and the grips are perfect. Doesn't look like it's ever been fired (although I'm sure it was sometime in it's life). I'm a shooter though and if the nickel revolvers need to be babied then I'll have to back off from it.

 

[Hapworth]

Nickel doesn't need to be babied -- quite the opposite, it's incredibly durable. The only thing to make certain of is that there's no flaking or chipping anywhere in the nickel finish, even minor; once that starts, nickel can deteriorate quickly if the wrong solvent is used.

 

[cmj8591]

Nickel was the original stainless steel. The reason you see so many guns from the old days with nickel has more to do with corrosion resistance than cosmetics. No problem shooting your gun, just remember to stay away from aggressive powder solvents like Hoppes #9 or Shooters Choice and the wipe away rag type products. When I clean a nickel gun I stick with Break Free and a nylon brush. The chemicals in the powder solvents break down the nickle plating after a while. You will have to live with the black rings around the front of the cylinder but that's what a gun that is being used looks like.

 

[Art Doc]

I'm told to avoid using chemical solvents in cleaning. I have always used Hoppe's #9 and they say not to use this but after 40 years I have not seen any damage to my nickel plated guns. But I just wipe it on and off and don't let it sit and soak. Other than that, shoot away. I love the shiny guns and the 27 is my favorite revolver.

This one is from 1960 and still looks great despite countless rounds and many cleanings.

 

[Seven3]

I have 3 nickel revolvers, and shoot all of them. As stated above, nickel is more wear and corrosion resistant than a blued finish. My understanding is that a cleaning agent containing ammonia, like Hoppes #9, can cause problems if it penetrates the nickel plating and reaches the base copper layer underneath, because it will remove the copper causing the outer nickel to flake. For safety sake, I minimize my use of Hoppes on my nickel guns, but it's probably safe as long as there are no deep scratches in the outer plating.

 

[loc n load]

Nickeled

I concur with all of the above, I have several 30-50 year old 27's,29's & a 57 that are nickeled and have been carried and shot a lot over the past several decades. I maintain them as I do my blued and stainless guns. I have heard stories that if you soak nickeled components ( such as cylinders) in Hoppe's overnight that it will remove the plating, I haven't ever put this to the test & don't intend to. Nickeled Smith's will serve you well. Good shooting.

 

[Marine Corps Air]

There's no problem or special precautions that are necessary with a nickel plated revolver. Fire it just as often as you would a blue finish version. Most of the revolvers that I own are nickels.

As Seven3 pointed out, it's the ammonia in most cleaning solvents that can cause signifiant nickel finish problems. Hoppe's sells an "Elite" product line, which I use, that does not contain ammonia. It's also recommended by S&W CS for this reason.

It comes in a spray pump container and makes clean up after a trip to range a lot easier, especially on the face of the cylinder. You'll be able to remove almost all of the carbon, including the exterior of the forcing cone and the top strap. If necessary, I will finish the job using some Mother's Mag Wheel polish on a soft toothbrush. It will also not harm the finish. Mine are always as clean as the day that I bought them.

I hope that this helps.

 

[steamloco76]

Hoppes Elite works very well on nickel plated guns, has no scent, no ammonia and no petroleum solvents. I also keep my nickel guns waxed with Johnsons Paste Wax to help keep the fouling from sticking as much. As others mentioned, do not get near nickel with a lead-away rag or patches.

 

[1sailor]

So, it sounds like the most important thing would be for me to closely re-examine the pistol to make sure there are no nicks, scratches, or pitting in the finish that could lead to finish failure. If there are any minor issues I didn't see before would that be cause for alarm. I did not pull the grips to check the finish there. Is there such a thing as "only a minor imperfection" or does the finish need to be perfect.

 

[Marine Corps Air]

Since there is no ammonia in the "Elite" product, I believe that you should be fine even if there are small nicks and scratches. Similar to Steamloco76's recommendation, I have used Renaissance Wax on mine after cleaning. I also pull the grips until I have finished the cleaning, regardless of what I am using. At $150.00 a pop to replace, they're expensive.

A while back I read a forum post that mentioned the risk of pitting in the nickel finish under the grips. My take on this situation is that there is acid in the wood or possibly other chemicals in the finish that can cause the problem. I checked all of mine and I do have one or two nickels that already have pitting in the nickel where the top of the grips make contact with the nickel, i.e. the side plate and just below the cylinder release latch. During the cleaning process I apply Renaissance Wax to the area underneath the grip area that contacts the nickel and do not have the pitting problem in any of my other nickel revolvers.

BTW - Johnson's Paste wax, which we used on hardwood floors back in the day, has a petroleum base and is safe for revolvers with either a nickel or blue finish.

 

[Seven3]

So, it sounds like the most important thing would be for me to closely re-examine the pistol to make sure there are no nicks, scratches, or pitting in the finish that could lead to finish failure. If there are any minor issues I didn't see before would that be cause for alarm. I did not pull the grips to check the finish there. Is there such a thing as "only a minor imperfection" or does the finish need to be perfect.

If there are scratches that look deep, it's not a deal breaker. Just use an ammonia-free cleaner like those suggested above, and you'll be fine.

 

[Gun 4 Fun]

I've used Hoppe's #9 on my nickel guns without any problems, even the scratched ones. It doesn't hurt anything as long as you don't SOAK the part/gun and/or there are no scratches through to the base copper plate. If #9 caused damage that fast, a copper bore brush would be worn out after one use. They aren't. It doesn't.

Just don't let it sit on the nickel any longer than necessary. BTW- I've used it on some very valuable nickel guns. It hasn't damaged or caused any issues yet after all this time.

Obviously if you use an ammonia free solvent, there's zero to worry about. Flitz or one of the other nickel polishes will remove the carbon rings on the cylinder face quite easily, but why bother? If you shoot the gun they come right back and constant cleaning of the cylinder face will do more to cause nickel issues than #9 will.

 

[05CarbonDRZ]

I agree with Gun 4 Fun,I have used Shooters Choice on MANY Nickel Gun's and never had a problem even though the label warns against it.Just don't let it sit on the Nickel for hours on end and you will be fine.

 

[yardboy]

Nickel is Gold. Avoid aggressive solvents and shoot the hell outta it!

 

[Double-O-Dave]

1sailor: I always wanted a MSP (Michigan State Police) Bodyguard, a Model 38 S&W revolver with a stainless steel cylinder made for the Michigan State Police as a back-up gun. Unfortunately, I was never able to find one in good shape, or that was reasonably priced. I really like my Model 38-0, and it serves as my EDC. A couple of years ago, I purchased a Model 38 parts kit from a fellow Forum member (cracked frame, so the owner scrapped the frame and sold me everything but the frame. Luckily for me, the donor Model 38 had a (factory) nickel finish. I swapped cylinders without any problems and now have my version of the MSP Bodyguard (see photos, below). I cannot believe how durable that nickel finish is! I only use Break Free CLP to clean the piece to prevent damaging the nickel finish.

Good luck,

Dave