Should I get new grips on Model 36?

[jamesallen]

Everyone I hear from says that I should replace the factory grips on my new model 36 (no dash).

Is replacing those little wooden grips with, say, a rubber Hogue or Pachmayr grip really going to make a huge difference in how well I can shoot it?
It's true that I haven't yet figured out how to get groups smaller than a pizza pan with it, but I would hate to get new grips thinking that it's going to make a huge difference when what I really need is to practice more.

Also, why do people keep saying that I should get a grip that fills in that empty space behind the trigger guard. With that empty space, I am able to get all three fingers on the grip pretty high on the gun, whereas if I had a boot grip, I would not be able to.

 

[drumminor2nd]

The fact that you can't group better than a pizza plate indicates the grips are not right for you. Get a $25 Hogue grip for it, and if you hate it return it. The grips on a J frame are vestigial at best, and many people (myself included) can shoot such a critter with boot grips or a T-grip. I prefer short boots myself. A lot of people will keep the stock grips for collector, resale and "photo shoot" reasons, but use the ugly rubber boots to actually shoot the darned thing.

Choking up on a J-frame will require you to turn your wrist down more in order to get the sights on the target, which doesn't help with handling the recoil impulse (also part of your problem). Trigger guard slap on the middle finger from something more potent than a powder puff wadcutter is another reason to fill in the space behind the trigger guard.

 

[jamesallen]

The fact that you can't group better than a pizza plate indicates the grips are not right for you. Get a $25 Hogue grip for it, and if you hate it return it. The grips on a J frame are vestigial at best, and many people (myself included) can shoot such a critter with boot grips or a T-grip. I prefer short boots myself. A lot of people will keep the stock grips for collector, resale and "photo shoot" reasons, but use the ugly rubber boots to actually shoot the darned thing.

Choking up on a J-frame will require you to turn your wrist down more in order to get the sights on the target, which doesn't help with handling the recoil impulse (also part of your problem). Trigger guard slap on the middle finger from something more potent than a powder puff wadcutter is another reason to fill in the space behind the trigger guard.

Thanks for that answer! You've convinced me I need to try some new grips....

 

[heeter3]

The smaller original grips are a trade off for easier concealability,however I have found the old herrett shooting aces to be a good fit for me for both concealability and accuracy.If you think they might work for you jamesallen,they come up on the seller boards here every so often.Good shooting.

 

[RRH]

I plan on trying the BK grip adapters on my M - 36 when I get the hammer nose firing pin replacement completed. They may not be the overall equivalent of the Tyler T grip. However they are apparently much easier to find as the Tylers are almost unobtainium right now.

 

[.455_Hunter]

OP- I agree about the silliness of filling the space behind the trigger guard. I want my finger in that location and it's the reason why my duty j-frames have either stock Magna or Altamont panel grips. Boot grips are worthless IMHO. It's also why I dislike the Ruger LCR platform.

 

[chief38]

My answer: it depends......

If your Chief's Special is a EDC gun and you pocket carry a lot, need deep concealment or let's say use an ankle holster, the Factory grips with a Tyler T works great. If you usually EDC with an OWB holster and wear a jacket or similar to conceal it - rubbers are fine (with the exception of possible grabbing or sticking to clothing). If you shoot this gun mostly for fun at the range and don't carry it, then rubber grips of some kind will relieve felt recoil and make your target shooting or combat shooting lots more pleasurable.

So as I see it - it really depends on what exactly you are using this M36 for.

 

[clang444]

2 words: Pachmayr Compac

or 3 words: Pachmayr Compac Pro - if max conceal-ability is important.

They may not look as good as wood, but they will give you a much better purchase on your gun.

 

[John Patrick]

I've found smooth wood finger groove combat style the best compromise for shooting vs carrying.

The Hogue's are great for shooting but relatively large and sticky.

The 638 in the photo below shows the wood finger groove combat style grips. I think I got them on Amazon. I had to sand down the rear "tips" to match the 638's humpback frame. That wouldn't be an issue with a 36.

 

[Baxter6551]

I didn't see anyone mention so I'll chime in with two recommendations on boot grips which work best for me with average size hands. The Uncle Mikes Spegel grips either boot style or regular (no longer available except in classifieds or on E Bay) or the Eagle Secret Service grips (pricy). I have a BK grip adapter with my Big Mtn Man stags - great for carry but lacking comfort at range with carry ammo. Two other suggestions the current S&W rubber grips being released on 642/442 series are excellent for comfort and carry - very similar to the Uncle Mikes along with VZ grips.
First pic is Uncle Mike boot and second is Uncle Mike regular.
And as others have said if it's for range use or non concealed carry the Pachmayr or Herretts are the best.

 

[Baxter6551]

Add a couple more pics to above post …
The current S&W
The Eagle
The Herretts
The VZ

 

[cmansguns]

J Frame EDC for many moons

I've carried J-Frame snubbies since 1971 and the factory grips were always fine with 38 Special, but when I went to +P self defense loads in the light weight Model 637-2 I found my grip to not be very good at all, and I didn't really care for either Tyler-T or rubber in those years, so opted for Altamont and (with practice) brought me right back up to my previous standards.

On the other hand, when hiking I usually have a 38 K Frame like my Model 64-1, 4" and with this gun, the Magna's are just fine. I karma'd the Tyler-T on this website as they still don't do a lot for me personally.

OR.....do what I did....transition out of J Frames all together, grab a 9mm 2.0 Compact and Kydex for equal (about) weight on your belt, but much larger round capacity, lose the speed strips in pockets, and load up with Hornady CD ammo.

 

[H Richard]

Stocks that you can get an actual grip on do help a lot with hitting your target. The Pachmayer Compact is a good one, but one that worked best for me is a Culina that looks as good as it fits my hand.



These were specific for the centennial frame, but there are slightly different for the exposed hammer frame. Made to your choice of wood.

 

[Ivan the Butcher]

I still have 4 S&W (36,49,12,15) and 1 Colt 2" 38's. I couldn't hit a thing with 110 and 125 grain loads. I tried some 146 SWC's and 158's (both +P and standard) and started hitting in the 3" @ 10 yard area. My EDC load is Speer Gold Dot 135 grain Short Barrel +P. All my 2" 38's have wood factory grips and Tylor-T's The old 49 came with worn out Pacs that just grabbed on to the pocket fabric and wouldn't allow a smooth draw from the pocket!

They are your guns, so of course do as you wish, but ammo seems to make more difference than grips.

Ivan

BTW, I like 125's in my 4" 38's & 357's

 

[raljr1]

I use the factory boot grips on my j frame snubs. If I don't, I too, have to hold my wrist at an odd angle to get he sight lined up correctly. First noticed this on my Model 63 before I put targets on it.

I have large hands, and these work fine for me with two fingers on the grips and the pinkie floating.

 

[Borderboss]

The reason that many people shoot lousy with Magna or similar grips is because your hand being so high on the grip puts your trigger finger at a weird angle for double action shooting. Instead of pulling straight back with your finger, you're pulling up and back. Not only does that give a perceived increase in trigger pull weight, it will lead to exacerbating pulling the front sight to the right (for a right handed shooter).

Getting a grip that fills the portion behind the trigger guard gets your trigger finger more into a straight back pull. If you don't like rubber grips or wood grips that do that, then something like a BK grip adapter will yield the same results.

 

[walkin' trails]

I have found that the best mix of features, for me and my medium sized hands anyway, are Hogue Bantams. They're boot grips with an open back strap, but the grips panels are both wide enough and sufficiently "grip-able" to help mitigate recoil and provide decent control without being so large that they help the bulge scream, "gun!" I have a 36 that wears them. along with an old 640. For what its worth, however, I've gone through a lot of revolver grips over the years, mostly synthetic, but have also tried to work with the factory stocks, modified factory stocks, Tyler T-Grips, etc, but ultimately found that for now, the Hogues work the best fo rme. That said, I recently scored a set of preowned Herrett's wood grips for a round butt J-frame and put them on my Model 60 in .38 Special with a three inch barrel. They don't do much for concealment, but they sure feel good.

 

[lppd4]

This is my setup. May not look pretty but it shoots really well

 

[jimmyj]

Jimmy cannot hit a barn using a "J" frame 2" with magna grips. I install Pachamer "Gripper" style grips and then I can hit a barn standing inside with the barn doors closed.

 

[Buford57]

I have the Uncle Mikes on my 642 and the factory rubber from the 642 on a 38-2. They handle similarly, but the UM work better with speed loaders. You didn't mention the range at which you get "pizza pan" groups but a 12" spread at 20 yards still puts everything inside the 7 ring on a B27, which is not all that shabby.

The best grip I ever tried on a J was the Ergo. Natural pointing, recoil was straight back and it still fit in a pocket. My beef with it was that weapon retention potential was about nil. I know, a true Ninja operator never lets his foe within arm's length, but I'm old.