Show off your M & P revolvers (pre-10's)

Victory shipped November 1942...

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1946 5"...

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There are no factory stamps indicating it been back to S&W.
There are no weak spots in the roll marks, all the parts that are not supposed to be blue are not. The screws are perfect. If you notice, the case colors are perfect. The action feels like the revolver has not been broken in. The original non-medallion grips are almost perfect. The few spots it does have on it looks like they are from sitting in someone's sock drawer for 50 years. I just have to wonder why someone would pay to have one of the most professional re-blues I have ever seen on a relatively inexpensive and common revolver. It may well be a refinish, but the experts here have disagreed.
Oh, and it does have a LOT of oil on it in the pic.


Are there any small Stamps on the Grip part of the Frame, indicating it had been sent back to S&W?

Kinda looks like a later 1930s or 1940s Blue which S&W would have done if one were sent in for a re-blue to them.

But definitely does not look like the Blue S&W was using in the early 1920s.
 
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There's been some debate on here whether this gun is reblued or not. A lot of disagreement even among the experts on this one. I figure its from about 1922. I have the original non-medallion grips and they are pristine.

Not an expert but I say original finish and not a reblue.
 
Model of 1899

Model of 1899 M&P. Cap on the ejector rod is not correct. Photo of it wearing original (numbered) black plastic grips and aftermarket mother of pearl grips.
 

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hi guys , heres my 1948 M&P 2inch with a custom action job and Farrant grips with a clipped frame. note the Vintage Police Special ammo boxes .hope to shoot soon.


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Here is my first M&P I just picked up Friday for $250 with matching numbered grips and holster with markings:
"DICK McKEON"
"KOREA"
"MAY 5 52"
"MAY 4 53"
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This one is a 1943 Victory that I purchased last year. It had quite a bit of rust and pitting on the outside, but the grips and bore looked like it hadn't been handled or shot much.
To find out, the seller had wrapped the original lanyard around it and stored it in their damp cellar for years after her husband had passed away.

Normally, I'm a purist and I don't refinish any of my S&W revolvers. I leave them as is. But since I had deemed this one a shooter, I figured to give it a go. After totally disassembling the gun I worked for days carefully sanding the areas in need. I decided to go with a Duracoat finish(parker), which I had did a lot of homework on.
The preparation is very important. Degrease several times, tape off important areas, and use a professional quality airbrush (left over from my days of painting tailgates) and give several super light coats (respirator a must).
I reassembled after 24 hours. One slight turn line as I rotated the cylinder after I assembled it to give it a slightly used look. Then put it aside for 4 weeks to fully cure.

I showed my neighbor (another forum member) and he was impressed, as he could still read all the writing and logo very clearly. He had no idea I did this myself until I told him.
It shoots wonderfully at 15 yards, I kept all 6 shots in the size of a silver dollar using single action.
I would recommend the product if you have a "pretty far gone" firearm that you are considering sending out. It doesn't scratch or rust and it's actually a very fun project.
 

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This is my .38 special Victory Model.
 

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There's already a few of these on page 7 of this thread, but here's a couple more very early post-WWII commercial "production" with the qualification being that they were made up utilizing leftover Victory frames, having SV prefixed serial numbers and plugged lanyard ring holes. Both are .38 Special, the 5" barrel example being a bit more highly polished than the 4" one.

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Smith & Wesson M&P
.38 Special
5 inch Barrel
Circa 1947

The long throw action on this classic 5 screw has a smooth DA pull that keeps me on target.
 

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Smith & Wesson M&P
.38 Special
5 inch Barrel
Circa 1947

The long throw action on this classic 5 screw has a smooth DA pull that keeps me on target.

Very nice!
What's the serial number?
I have a snubbie with a long action like that. It has serial number S843xxx, which I'm told means that it was likely shipped in 1946.
 
Thanks. Great old revolvers!
My Serial is S878xxx.
Do you have a picture of your snub?
 

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