Sight question

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Hello! Today I was finally able to take possession of my Ruger 1911CMD. Except for my 1861 Colt Navy replica, ALL of my handguns have either Patridge, Red Ramp or Baughman ramp front sights and a plain black rear adjustable sight designed for target shooting. The Ruger has Novaks with 3 dots. I am envisioning that the dots on the sights will draw my eyes from a traditional sight picture.

How does one align 3 dot Novak sights? Typically, I use a Navy/Center of Mass sight picture on all my handguns in order to maintain a higher degree of accuracy.

Thanks in advance for your help!
 
Like D Brown said, you just line up the dots. But sometimes guns are sighted-in such that you place the front sight dot directly over your intended point of impact.

Also, sometimes lining up the dots mean the tops of the front and rear sights are not even, and that can affect where your shots will go.

Your best bet is to just take it to the range and see where the bullets hit in relation to your alignment and aiming point.

Also, it's perfectly acceptable to paint over the dots, or black them out with a Sharpie, to make the sights more consistent with your other guns.
 
If the white dots are not to your liking...
A drop of Testors model paint in flat black makes them disappear !
Some folks just don't like the dots , give them a good try before you do anything ... you just might like them .
Gary
 
I don't find the dots on my SR1911 to be a distraction. When I'm trying for maximum precision I focus on the sight outline itself and don't even notice the white dots. If I did I would just do as others have suggested and black them out.
 
A dot on the front sight can help with sight acquisition during rapid fire. Lining up 3 dots can consume time and can be problematic if the the dots do not line up when the top of the front sight is level with the top of the rear sight.


If the dots are a distraction, the simple, although temporary fix, is to black them out with a permanent magic marker. A long term fix is to remove the paint from the sights and apply cold blue or fill the dots with matte black paint.
 
I am also not a 3 dot sight fan for a few reasons:

1) The dots and the tops of the sights usually dom not agree.

As someone noted above the aligning the dots often means the top of the front and rear sights are not aligned. That creates different points of impacts if you shoot precisely using proper sight alignment versus the allegedly faster sight picture offered by the 3 dot sight.

Part of the problem is that all three of the dots are usually the same size, but since the front sight is farther away the apparent diameter of the dot on the front sight is now smaller. Sight makers don't seem to account for this issue.

2) Three dot sights are less precise.

Under ideal conditions of light and contrast the Mk 1 Mod 0 human eyeball can detect differences of .005", and a good pair of sights will create those high contrast conditions. Handgun sights tend to have slightly larger gaps than are ideal, but they are still capable of a fair amount of precision, and all black sights will consistently be more accurate than 3 dot sights.

In short, the spaces between the dots are too large for precise alignment, and the round shape of the dots makes precise alignment much harder, and much less consistent across different light conditions.

In addition, you now have 3 dots competing for attention with the light coming through the spaces between the front and rear sights. The fact that the dots and tops of the sights may not be consistent just aggravates the problem.

3) Three dot sights are not any faster. If you are properly trained and practice enough you'll find that referencing the front sight blade only is both faster and more accurate when shooting fast. You have to start out slow and develop both a consistent grip that allows you to align the sights as well as consistent trigger control that allows you to maintain that alignment.

In essence, you bring the pistol up to eye level and then as the front sight comes on to the target, you pause to verify the front and rear sights are aligned, then proceed with the trigger squeeze.

Over time, you develop both a consistent grip, and an eye-motor loop that ensures that the sights will always be aligned as you bring the front sight on target. Your brain knows exactly how the muscles in your hand have to be tensioned to achieve sight alignment and at that point sight alignment takes care of itself, for all but the most precise long range shooting. Once you reach that point the "pause" to verify sight alignment can be less than 1/10th of a second and serves mostly to confirm the front sight blade is on the spot you want to shoot.

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In terms of sight picture, I use a 6 o clock hold on the target for precision shooting, but I place the front blade over the target for short range, high speed shooting.

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I do use 3 dot night sights as at night aligning the three dots is as good as it is going to get.

However, I cover the 3 tritium dots with a black sharpie. That gives me a standard black on black sight in daylight, but the tritium dots will still show through the thin layer of ink in the dark, giving me a 3 dot sight at night.
 
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You know, you don't have to use the same sight picture as everyone else.

Make the sight picture you want, adjust the sights until your POI/POA lines up more or less, and have at it.

Me, I like a good 6 o'clock hold when I can get it. Gives a nice view of the target.

I would suggest, however, that a 12 o'clock hold might be sub-optimal :D
 
I would suggest, however, that a 12 o'clock hold might be sub-optimal :D

I like to shoot with lever guns in .357 Magnum, .45 Colt, .38-55, .375 Win and .30-30 and I take that into account.

For example with my .375 Win and a 200 gr RNFP at 2200 fps, a 210 yard zero will be 5" low at 250 yards. It also leaves me with a maximum mid range trajectory of +4.6" at 110 yards.

But, that means I can hold under at ranges less than 200 yards, where I can still see the target above the front blade. It also means I can use a 6 o'clock hold at 200 yards, and that's about as far as I shoot a Model 94 in .375 Win anyway.

The same approach works with any iron sighted rifle with a front blade or bead, where you also don't want to adjust the rear sight for elevation.
 
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