Smith 625 JM (previous owner issues)...

[1BadSmith]

I took in a 625 JM on trade the other day--deal of a lifetime!! It had about $400+ in accessories with it, and the gun is like new, with factory box and paperwork. I already have a 625PC, which I love. The previous owner of the JM got all set up to shoot competition, and never really did. Long story short, he had trigger work done--it is extremely dangerous!! Light strikes, and hair trigger. It's GOT TO be fixed!! Also it is missing the spring in the ejector rod housing for some reason. I spoke to Smith yesterday, and asked if they could put the same action tuning in as my 625 PC, and they said no problem, they would also handle the spring issue. Anyhow, 6 month wait and about $300. Really didn't want to spend that or wait that long either. Any advice, comments, suggestions, etc...Thanks.

 

[jframejoey]

Put ejector rod spring, rebound slide spring and new factory standard hammer spring in and see if it works safely. If not then someone fiddle faddled with the trigger and hammer contact points to a dangerous level.

 

[robertrwalsh]

Any competent local smith can change the springs back for you. If it is still an issue after that, you want to reconsider your options. That will be quicker and cheaper than sending it back to the mother ship.

 

[kaaskop49]

^^^^ what THEY said. This thread reminds me of the accessorizing/modding craze on 1911s in the 1970s. The used gun cases in LGSs held many such guns when the original owners became tired of playing with them. My 'favorite' mod: stippling the front strap to improve grip on the gun, then installing rubber grips to prevent the stippling from abrading the shooter's hand...

Once bought a used Python from another LEO that could not be fired single-action: the hammer would catch on the trigger and simply return to the full-rest position. My 'smith said he could bring it back to factory standard. Lovely gun after he did so.

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103

 

[scooter123]

You don't mention how "light" that dangerous trigger is. If it's 3 to 4 lbs in single action that is a factory stock trigger. If it's less than about 2.5 lbs that means the sear on the hammer has been re-ground and you should plan on replacing the hammer. You can purchase a new hammer from either Numrich or Brownells but finding a color match to the original flash chromed hammer may mean waiting on one to arrive. Typically the replacement parts are the blued MIM versions.

Next step in reversing that "action job" will likely require replacing the mainspring and strain screw, both parts that are easy to obtain from Brownells.

The final touch will be to replace the Rebound Spring, also easy to obtain from Brownells. BTW, when ordering the replacement rebound spring also get yourself a rebound spring tool. They look sort of like a bent screwdriver in the catalog and are essential for getting the rebound spring back in the revolver. I'll also recommend getting a 14 lbs rebound spring instead of the factory original 16 lbs. rebound spring. Because it does lighten the Single action trigger from 4 lbs. to 3 lbs. which I find perfectly safe to use and a bit easier to work with for precision shooting.


Concerning tuning of a S&W revolver that is something I feel is necessary for any modern S&W revolver. The key is to tune the trigger so that it's 100% reliable with any commercial ammo you can purchase. BTW, Remington has the hardest primers I've encountered and I prefer Remington cases for reloading so I shoot some any time I need fresh cases. The point of perfect reliability that I've set my revolvers to is 9 lbs. on the dot. Perhaps a bit heavier than the perfect minimum but a bit of a cushion is a good thing when it's about reliable ignition. Tuning the trigger of a modern medium or large frame S&W to this level is actually quite simple. The recipe is a 14 lbs. Rebound Spring, a Factory Mainspring, and a Factory Strain Screw with 0.020 to 0.035 inch filed off the tip. Yeah the recipe really is that simple. Note, a good accurate trigger gage is a real asset but not absolutely essential. Go too far filing the Strain screw and you'll have one reason why I recommend having spares. BTW, the second reason for spares is that Strain Screws do wear out due to peening of the tip.

 

[Old_Cop]

If a deal is too good to be true, it probably is. Have a S&W trained armorer check it out. Hammer light is an easy fix, replacing springs too.

 

[1-1917]

Have you just tried tightening the strain screw?

 

[JDinAZ]

Previous endorsement retracted........