Smith and Wesson High Polish Stainless Refinish?
- Thread starter Buick
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
If you're looking simply to spiff the revolver back up a bit, save the time and money and buy some gray Norton scouring pads -- they'll most closely approximate the factory satin finish; run a search, there are many thread here on how to use them to restore stainless.
Mothers Mag, Flitz and such will get you a mirrored high polish; if you like the shiny chrome look, there you go. The factory high polish is the same: mirrored, chrome looking.; it isn't the brushed, semi-reflective finish the revolver left the factory with originally.
Most refinishes don't help value for collectibles expect under certain conditions and usually for much older guns; they sometimes can for non-collectibles, if the buyer appreciates the refinish and wants it, but don't expect to recoup the full cost of a refinish.
The 3" 66 is a sought after piece, but as a carried and shot gun minus factory box, tools and docs, isn't going to merit much consideration by collectors. With that in mind, you can do just about whatever you want to the finish and the piece will retain value to shooters.
What's your intended use? If it's to be carried and shot much, whatever you do with the finish (short of applying a coating) will wear again, in which case it might not be worth the time and cost to send it to the factory, or do anything at all, for that matter. But if you're going to sit on it and want it pretty -- which is fine and many of us do -- you can try the home-based approach with polish and pads, or go the factory route for more cost.
Although not listed on their site, the factory can do a brushed, original finish on it, not just the bead blast or high polish.
Mothers Mag, Flitz and such will get you a mirrored high polish; if you like the shiny chrome look, there you go. The factory high polish is the same: mirrored, chrome looking.; it isn't the brushed, semi-reflective finish the revolver left the factory with originally.
Most refinishes don't help value for collectibles expect under certain conditions and usually for much older guns; they sometimes can for non-collectibles, if the buyer appreciates the refinish and wants it, but don't expect to recoup the full cost of a refinish.
The 3" 66 is a sought after piece, but as a carried and shot gun minus factory box, tools and docs, isn't going to merit much consideration by collectors. With that in mind, you can do just about whatever you want to the finish and the piece will retain value to shooters.
What's your intended use? If it's to be carried and shot much, whatever you do with the finish (short of applying a coating) will wear again, in which case it might not be worth the time and cost to send it to the factory, or do anything at all, for that matter. But if you're going to sit on it and want it pretty -- which is fine and many of us do -- you can try the home-based approach with polish and pads, or go the factory route for more cost.
Although not listed on their site, the factory can do a brushed, original finish on it, not just the bead blast or high polish.
dipperdave
Member
Mother Mag and Flitz can certainly make your stainless revolver look like chrome, but only if you choose to take it to that level. You see the results as you polish and can stop at any level of shine that you want. Semichrome is another good choice and is slightly more aggressive. I have used all three on stainless revolvers and they work well.
I don't like a super shiny finish so a little work with any of these polishes using old tee shirt cotton rags is easy to do. Cotton 12 gauge cleaning patches also work well. It makes stainless steel revolvers look good without shining like the mouth of Hades.
I don't like a super shiny finish so a little work with any of these polishes using old tee shirt cotton rags is easy to do. Cotton 12 gauge cleaning patches also work well. It makes stainless steel revolvers look good without shining like the mouth of Hades.
MattJames
Member
Congrats on a nice revolver.
A lot of great advice here for you and that's the brilliance of stainless steel - you can have it any way you want. And the cool thing is - you can pretty much achieve any of it yourself depending on your commitment level and investment.
I bought a cheap buffer and pads/compound from Harbor Freight and have really enjoyed the experience of learning and doing it. Frustrating at times but ultimately rewarding. You do get to really know your firearm, that's for sure.
For a hand buff, removing the grips, cylinder release and maybe rear sight helps a lot. Then go at it for a couple of hours. I like Mothers for that and maybe Simichrome after. A couple coats of Ren wax to finish and you're good to go.
Enjoy...
A lot of great advice here for you and that's the brilliance of stainless steel - you can have it any way you want. And the cool thing is - you can pretty much achieve any of it yourself depending on your commitment level and investment.
I bought a cheap buffer and pads/compound from Harbor Freight and have really enjoyed the experience of learning and doing it. Frustrating at times but ultimately rewarding. You do get to really know your firearm, that's for sure.
For a hand buff, removing the grips, cylinder release and maybe rear sight helps a lot. Then go at it for a couple of hours. I like Mothers for that and maybe Simichrome after. A couple coats of Ren wax to finish and you're good to go.
Enjoy...
Harkrader
Member
Keep the gun, leave the finish. What a great story the scuffs and scratches hint at. Much better than a refinish.
- Joined
- Jun 28, 2007
- Messages
- 27,669
- Reaction score
- 21,362
Well, your "only a shooter" 3" model 66 is a $1K gun or so in today's market - congratulations on finding one!
As others mentioned, if it will be a carry gun there is something to be said about leaving it as is. You can give it any surface finish you like and it can always be restored to factory appearance; however, the original finish has a micro-coating known as "passivation" that helps the metal be more rust-resistant, and taking this off will make the gun more likely to have metal damage. To me it looks fine the way it is. Hope this is helpful.
As others mentioned, if it will be a carry gun there is something to be said about leaving it as is. You can give it any surface finish you like and it can always be restored to factory appearance; however, the original finish has a micro-coating known as "passivation" that helps the metal be more rust-resistant, and taking this off will make the gun more likely to have metal damage. To me it looks fine the way it is. Hope this is helpful.
dipperdave
Member
You can give it any surface finish you like and it can always be restored to factory appearance; however, the original finish has a micro-coating known as "passivation" that helps the metal be more rust-resistant, and taking this off will make the gun more likely to have metal damage. To me it looks fine the way it is. Hope this is helpful.[/QUOTE]
In theory the "passivation" should help prevent rust. However, in my few experiences, polishing my stainless revolvers hasn't caused any real world reduction in rust resistance. My best example is this:
In early 2011 I bought a used Model 66 no dash to use as my "woods" gun. It had been fired little but must have been carried a lot in a glove box or something. Lots of tiny rub marks and tiny scratches all over it including the frame, barrel and cylinder. A previous owner had also filled the working mechanism with a black grease. I disassembled it and cleaned all inside working parts well. Then I used Mother's Mag polish to buff the exterior to a nice low shine removing the tiny rubs/scratches but leaving the top of the strap and barrel in the original no gloss state. Rubber Hogue grips completed what I intended as a working gun and as a bonus it looks sharp with the lightly polished frame.
As my "woods" gun it is with me when I work in my woods, clearing up blow downs, cutting firewood and especially when I am fighting kudzu, briars and honeysuckle with my machetes or backpack sprayer and Roundup. The Model 66 is there with me in an old Don Hume holster, which is where is lives when not on my hip. It's heavily sweated on during hot summer days, hit with spray mist, rubbed up against wet foliage after rains and occasionally sprinkled on with rain. I give it a good wipe down with oil occasionally but it isn't babied at all.
Bottom line is that it's been just fine. No rust whatsoever. In real world use, I don't think this Model 66 could have been any more rust resistant if I had left it in its original ugly rubbed/scratched "passivation" condition instead of polishing it.
By the way, most of my stainless guns aren't polished. The few that I have polished all look really good.
Just my experience. Your experience may vary.
In theory the "passivation" should help prevent rust. However, in my few experiences, polishing my stainless revolvers hasn't caused any real world reduction in rust resistance. My best example is this:
In early 2011 I bought a used Model 66 no dash to use as my "woods" gun. It had been fired little but must have been carried a lot in a glove box or something. Lots of tiny rub marks and tiny scratches all over it including the frame, barrel and cylinder. A previous owner had also filled the working mechanism with a black grease. I disassembled it and cleaned all inside working parts well. Then I used Mother's Mag polish to buff the exterior to a nice low shine removing the tiny rubs/scratches but leaving the top of the strap and barrel in the original no gloss state. Rubber Hogue grips completed what I intended as a working gun and as a bonus it looks sharp with the lightly polished frame.
As my "woods" gun it is with me when I work in my woods, clearing up blow downs, cutting firewood and especially when I am fighting kudzu, briars and honeysuckle with my machetes or backpack sprayer and Roundup. The Model 66 is there with me in an old Don Hume holster, which is where is lives when not on my hip. It's heavily sweated on during hot summer days, hit with spray mist, rubbed up against wet foliage after rains and occasionally sprinkled on with rain. I give it a good wipe down with oil occasionally but it isn't babied at all.
Bottom line is that it's been just fine. No rust whatsoever. In real world use, I don't think this Model 66 could have been any more rust resistant if I had left it in its original ugly rubbed/scratched "passivation" condition instead of polishing it.
By the way, most of my stainless guns aren't polished. The few that I have polished all look really good.
Just my experience. Your experience may vary.
Buick,
Great looking revolver you picked up.
I'm in the "High Polish Camp". I had a 1970 (very used) Chevelle SS as a kid, but as long as the chrome bumpers and beauty rims were polished, I never noticed the dulling paint.
I took the Mother Wheel Mag approach on my 3 revolvers and I am very happy with the results. The 627 in the middle had a bead finish, so it's taking a bit longer to polish/chrome the cylinder, compensator, trigger and hammer. Unpolished, the 627 looked unfinished to me (just my opinion).
If you do decided to take this route...(I'll state the obvious) make sure you remove ALL of the residual compounding material. When/if it hardens around the trigger or hammer, you'll be dealing with a challenging trigger pull.
Enjoy your revolver and have it your way !!!
Click on Icon below:
Great looking revolver you picked up.
I'm in the "High Polish Camp". I had a 1970 (very used) Chevelle SS as a kid, but as long as the chrome bumpers and beauty rims were polished, I never noticed the dulling paint.
I took the Mother Wheel Mag approach on my 3 revolvers and I am very happy with the results. The 627 in the middle had a bead finish, so it's taking a bit longer to polish/chrome the cylinder, compensator, trigger and hammer. Unpolished, the 627 looked unfinished to me (just my opinion).
If you do decided to take this route...(I'll state the obvious) make sure you remove ALL of the residual compounding material. When/if it hardens around the trigger or hammer, you'll be dealing with a challenging trigger pull.
Enjoy your revolver and have it your way !!!
Click on Icon below:
Last edited:
I would probably leave it alone if I was going to carry it because it looks like the surface is basically in good condition.
I am not familiar with the "passivation" mentioned by Murphydog but you can rely on information provided by him however I would imagine a lot of the "passivation" process has likely worn off by the looks of this revolver (?).
You can touch up the original finish on a brushed finish stainless steel gun and fix significant scratches with Scotch Brite pads. You can make it look original and very nice.
Scotch Brite pads come in different levels of coarseness.
Light Grey, called Ultra Fine Hand Pad - (600-800) 800 grit.
Green, called Light Duty Hand Pad - (600) 600 grit
Maroon pad, called General Purpose Hand Pad - (320-400) - which is very coarse for removing deeper scratches.
Work in a small area with tiny (1" square) piece of pad and stroke in one direction only following the linear polishing direction from the factory. Avoid any surfaces but the brushed stainless surfaces. Start in the most unobtrusive area first to make sure you get a feel for it and like the result. Go slow and use a light hand. Generally the green pad can be used for all applications varying the pressure dependent upon the degree of the scratch you attempting to fix. You could finish off with the light grey pad. Look at You Tube for examples of how to do it or further research the S&W Forum.
John
Here is an example of a revolver that had been carried and was in about the same condition as yours before I touched it up.
I am not familiar with the "passivation" mentioned by Murphydog but you can rely on information provided by him however I would imagine a lot of the "passivation" process has likely worn off by the looks of this revolver (?).
You can touch up the original finish on a brushed finish stainless steel gun and fix significant scratches with Scotch Brite pads. You can make it look original and very nice.
Scotch Brite pads come in different levels of coarseness.
Light Grey, called Ultra Fine Hand Pad - (600-800) 800 grit.
Green, called Light Duty Hand Pad - (600) 600 grit
Maroon pad, called General Purpose Hand Pad - (320-400) - which is very coarse for removing deeper scratches.
Work in a small area with tiny (1" square) piece of pad and stroke in one direction only following the linear polishing direction from the factory. Avoid any surfaces but the brushed stainless surfaces. Start in the most unobtrusive area first to make sure you get a feel for it and like the result. Go slow and use a light hand. Generally the green pad can be used for all applications varying the pressure dependent upon the degree of the scratch you attempting to fix. You could finish off with the light grey pad. Look at You Tube for examples of how to do it or further research the S&W Forum.
John
Here is an example of a revolver that had been carried and was in about the same condition as yours before I touched it up.
45Wheelgun
Member
What is the published cost of the factory high polish?
one eye joe
US Veteran
I AGREE WITH dave. MOTHERS MAG WHEEL POLISH IS THE WAY TO GO. DEEP SCRATCHES CAN BE REMEDIED WITH THE USE OF SCOTCH BRITE PADS. (THERE IS PROBABLY A TUTORIAL ON THEIR USE ON YOUTUBE). FOLLOW IT UP WITH MOTHERS AND A MICROSOFT RAG. THE MORE YOU WORK AT IT, THE BRIGHTER THE SHINE. HERE'S MY NO-DASH 686, WHICH WAS DIRTY AND HOLSTER SCUFFED WHEN I BOUGHT IT. MOTHERS BROUGHT IT BACK TO THIS CONDITION……
I JUST READ THE COMMENT BY g8rb8 ABOVE, WHEREIN HE GIVES EXCELLENT INSTRUCTIONS ON THE USE OF SCOTCH BRITE PADS…….
Attachments
Last edited:
I'm not a fan of high polished stainless guns. That said, I bought an older 66 that had been carried a lot and had some dullness but no scratches. Just a few minutes with semichrome gave it a much better look, but not a high polish. An inside cleaning and a little stone work, and it had a great action and is a fine shooter. It will never look new and that is ok, but its a nice looking gun that shoots, exactly what I wanted it for.
A little clean up with any of the polishing compounds will do wonders for the 3 inch, without making it blinding to all who look at it.
A little clean up with any of the polishing compounds will do wonders for the 3 inch, without making it blinding to all who look at it.
Ive owned a few used stainless guns that were a bit scuffed up.Mothers Mag polish and an old t shirt cleaned them up nicely.It would take several hours of hand polishing to bring a gun to a high polish finish.
RGVshooter
Member
If you decide to send it to S&W for a polish yes, it will probably take 2-3 months but I promise you it will come back better than new!
Thanks for the update.
I'm glad you left it as it was, nothing says "BUBBA" like polished stainless steel.
