Smith, model 10

[Kickin brass]

Hello, I have a smith and wesson model 10 .38 spl, was going through cleaning it and did somthing that is apparently incredibly idiotic, I reassembeled it without the ejector rod and now my cylinder wont open.

Any ideas? To dissasemble you have to swing the cylinder open so thats a no go.

 

[Kickin brass]

Oops its the center pin not the ejector rod that I left out, also the cylinder isnt tight like it is when its firing just stuck

 

[fredg19]

Simple! The job of the center pin is to push the locking bolt, part number 31 in this schematic pic: K-Frame 10 | World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools - BROWNELLS

Just use the tip of a small screw driver to push the locking bolt back while pushing the thumb release at the same time. If you can find something non marring to push back the center pin all the better, but if you are careful you can do it with a screw driver.

 

[Kickin brass]

Thanks, been trying that for a while with no success, also I forgot to add that the hammer and trigger are also jammed up, would a feeler gauge work? so far a screwdriver has done nothing but drive me screwy haha, again thanks

 

[Alk8944]

Thanks, been trying that for a while with no success, also I forgot to add that the hammer and trigger are also jammed up, would a feeler gauge work? so far a screwdriver has done nothing but drive me screwy haha, again thanks

Well, that is how it is done. If you left the center pin out there is no point pushing on the thumbpiece as there is no center pin to lock the back of the cylinder. Just worry about the locking bolt as that is all that is holding the gun closed.

The locking bolt has a bevel on it on the left side. You can use a razor blade, exacto blade, feeler gauge or something similar to push between the front of the extractor rod and the barrel lug to cam the locking bolt back. It has to be thin enough to pass between the extractor rod and the barrel lug, your screwdriver is probably too thick.

The reason the hammer is locked is the center pin isn't there to push the bolt (the part the thumbpiece is attached to) back. When the bolt is forward it locks the hammer, that's what it is supposed to do. If the hammer can't move the trigger can't either.

 

[Kickin brass]

Well, I have been workin it with feeler gauges for about a half hour with no result. Where precisely should I be doing it?

 

[Kickin brass]

Ok over an hour of this, and still nothing. Im pushing the gauge in between the extractor and the frame, I can feel somthing there but it just wont give

 

[fredg19]

Hmmm, gotta work.... the locking bolt looks like this and is clearly visible:

You want the screw driver tip between it and the extractor tip, not the frame... It is spring loaded and you need something stiff, not a thin feeler guage.... push in on the beveled area towards the muzzle end. (Actually the beveled end is inside the end of the extractor.)

Be sure you are you are pushing the locking bolt towards the muzzle end.

 

[fredg19]

Well, that is how it is done. If you left the center pin out there is no point pushing on the thumbpiece as there is no center pin to lock the back of the cylinder. Just worry about the locking bolt as that is all that is holding the gun closed.

Good point... I guess the only time I had to do this was when the extractor had backed out so I pushed the thumb release and pushed back the bolt.

 

[Kickin brass]

Clearly visable?? Ok forgive my ignorace but could we start from scratch? Where am I looking for this? assuming pistol on its right side, muzzle pointed left.
I cant see anything but the extractor, btw by extracter I assume you mean the part that is up against the shooters side of the cylinder, not the rod, Right?

 

[bentcam]

under the barrel at the end of the ejector rod is a pin that is latched into the ejector rod. this needs to be unlatched.

 

[jepp2]

Right here:

 

[fredg19]

Clearly visable?? Ok forgive my ignorace but could we start from scratch? Where am I looking for this? assuming pistol on its right side, muzzle pointed left.
I cant see anything but the extractor, btw by extracter I assume you mean the part that is up against the shooters side of the cylinder, not the rod, Right?

Yes the rod:

Like the pic in the above post... the locking bolt is at least partially clearly visible where it is in the end of the rod.

 

[Kickin brass]

Ahhh! again please forgive my ignornance, im more accustomed to military style rifles and some semi-auto.

I dont have it to try right now but ill take a look, that is a very different model than I have however.

 

[jepp2]

that is a very different model than I have however.

Yes, it is a Model 19-4, however for purposes of illustration it is the same as what you are dealing with. In case it isn't obvious, push toward the muzzle to release....

 

[Kickin brass]

Alright, I had it comepletely backwards but its done and over, thanks again yall... im sure it shows but this is my first revolver and a lot different than anything I have ever messed with so this was a big help

Cant wait to get this thing out to put a few through it

 

[fredg19]

Alright, I had it comepletely backwards but its done and over, thanks again yall... im sure it shows but this is my first revolver and a lot different than anything I have ever messed with so this was a big help

Cant wait to get this thing out to put a few through it

Great! I bet it made perfect sense once you figured it out!! Welcome to the revolver world!! They tend to multiply so be prepared!