Smoothing(stoning) the rebound slide?

I tell you what my "Eye Loupe" is my favorite gunsmithing tool..
You'll be suprised what you can see, expecialy lint, cat hairs, rubbish etc..
When I ordered my Norton stone from Brownells I recieved the 6" x 1" x 1" Fine India Stone & it has done evrthing I'd ever want, I use a light oil such as Rem-Oil on it & always keep it clean..
I sometimes wish I had a bit of a thinner one but I'm usualy just passing the parts over the stone with it sitting on the workbench..
I also did the push off fix with it on my 686 & was happy I had the "Fine" stone..
Gary/Hk
 
These days I too consider a headband magnifier an essential tool. It sits on top of my toolbox and I just routinely put it on before beginning any close work. The 1 3/4X magnification works just fine for me.
 
POLISH is the word.I have all sorts of stones in various grits but for polishing the rebound slide,I'll take 600 grit black wet or dry sandpaper,hold it flat on a hard surface and with the part in your fingers,polish.The worst thing about stones,files and etc is that some people don't know when to quit.I will also ditto something that one of the posters said about dremel tools and such.They have destroyed a lot of guns.Steel does not grow back.
 
Lots of great info here. I find the reading glasses being used more and more;)

The hard Arkansas stone I used started to take the black finish off the MIM slide in one or two passes, I then used some 600 wet dry. It's pretty darn smooth.I have soft and medium stones also but was afraid to take off to much metal. I would rather error on the side of caution. I doubt I will be doing enough trigger work to buy more tools. Just for clarity, I do not use a Dremel much for anything. The only bit on put on it is the felt pad with Flitz, I use it to polish feed ramps on semi autos. I did try it a tad on the the inside where the slide rests but it did not fit in there well so it was just a little polish:o

I really appreciate all the advice and experience from everyone. Now, who is going to do the pictorial or video on this whole procedure?:D
 
As far as a video, Jerry Miculek has the best video out there. He'll lead you through the process step by step, pointing out the important steps and warning about any potential problems. Get a copy, it is the best money you can spend if you plan on working on your S&W's yourself.
 
As far as a video, Jerry Miculek has the best video out there. He'll lead you through the process step by step, pointing out the important steps and warning about any potential problems. Get a copy, it is the best money you can spend if you plan on working on your S&W's yourself.


I have it. He does a real nice job explaining things. Most things are the same, but watching him work on the bigger frame with exposed hammer is a little different. The DVD is good but a bit to long, tend to nod off:D I haven't watched it for a while, doesn't he cut springs?

Went to the range today and both guns, the other was a Ruger SP101 which had a fairly decent trigger to begin with, functioned perfectly. I tried 3 factory brands and my own handloads with Wolf primers. Everything went bang, so all is well.:) I am going to do another 642 and leave all my bigger exposed hammer revolvers alone, they all have decent triggers.

Thanks again.
 
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