Some (probably useless) Brass Facts

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Well, it was too cold to shoot last week and I was stuck at home playing “Mr.Fetchitt” for my wife who is recovering from a hip replacement (….and taking full advantage of my better nature), when a bout of OCD must have come over me. I found myself in the basement reloading room wondering about things. It turns out that over the past year I’ve collected around 80 pounds of range pick-up 9mm brass. I became curious about the distribution of head stamps and if there is/was any significant differences between the various brands of the spent 9mm cases. Now, based mostly on discussions here, it’s been my understanding that there is almost no point in segregating 9mm brass by head stamps for reloading purposes and in fact, there is very little interest in reloading 9mm at all. Nonetheless, my inquiring mind and idle hands embarked upon the ensuing science project. All data is based on my accumulated range pick-up brass from a local semi-private range (often rented out to local police agencies). The pick-ups had been cleaned by dry tumbled for 6-12 hours but had not been further processed; the spent primers were not removed prior to sorting and weighing. YMMV.
Now, I have always segregated nickel-plated cases from regular brass due to the fact that the plated casings tend to crack before un-plated specimens, and for some reason I tend to use my nickel-plated cases mostly for trial loads. So, what has been the percentage of nickel-plated range pick-ups? Out of a total of 77.7 pounds of 9mm brass, 5.3 lbs (or 6.8 %) are nickel plated. And of the 5.3 lbs of nickel plated 9mm cases, what was the distribution of manufactures (lot percentages)? Here comes some really useless information:

Federal (F.C.): 38.3%
Winchester (WIN): 19.3%
Speer: 19.6%
Star Line: 7.3%
Hornady: 4.7%
WCC: 3.3%
Underwood: 3.2%
Remington (R-P): 2.1%
All Else: 2.2%


“So what”, you ask? Well, now for some real OCD stuff. In my opinion, assuming consistent powder throws and bullet weights, reloads that are the most accurate should be made from cases that are the most consistently manufactured (or formed, or rendered and processed). The weights of a representative samples of cases from each head stamp should provide an indication of the relative consistency of the various batches of cases. Therefore, the average weights, standard deviations and extreme spread of those weights from representative samples (35 each lot) may provide some guidance as to which batch of cases will provide the most accurate reloaded ammunition. Therefore, more useless information:

Mfg. Avg.Wt.(gr) Stnd.Dev.(gr) Ext.Spread “GRADE”
Federal: 58.1 0.8 2.9 97.2%
Winchester: 61.6 0.5 2.4 98.1%
Speer: 62.6 1.6 6.1 94.9%
StarLine: 60.1 0.3 1.3 99.0%
Hornady: 58.8 2.2 8.9 92.5%
WCC: 61.1 0.4 1.6 98.7%
All Else: 61.3 2.2 7.4 92.7%

There was too little Underwood or Remington nickel-plated cases recovered for a good, representative sample (less than 35 each lot), therefore the last three batches have been combined as “All Else”.
So, which nickel plated 9mm cases would be best for my reloading purposes? Starline clearly wins but there was very little to be picked-up; only around 0.5% (0.4 lbs out of almost 80 lbs collected in about 1 year). Even less for WCC. Therefore, Best Choice for Nickel Plated Cases: WINCHESTER. Although there was not much difference between nickel-plated Winchester, WCC and Federal.

It gets worse. Here’s the same information for my range pick-up BRASS:

HEAD STAMP (LOT) LOT % AVG.(gr) ST.DEV.(gr) EX.SPR.(gr) "GRADE"
Winchester (WIN) 19.9% 61.6 0.6 2.8 98.0%
Remington (R-P) 18.8% 61.0 0.6 2.1 98.2%
Federal (F.C.) 18.0% 61.5 2.8 7.1 90.9%
Blazer 13.5% 62.3 2.1 8.2 93.2%
Speer 6.4% 62.8 1.4 4.9 95.6%
PMC 4.4% 60.3 0.5 1.5 98.5%
S&B 3.9% 61.3 1.3 5.3 95.9%
NATO 2.5% 63.6 0.6 2.5 98.0%
All Else 2.5% 60.4 1.7 6.2 94.3%
Perfecta 1.7% 60.0 0.8 3.5 97.5%
G.F.L. 1.7% 59.9 0.9 3.7 97.0%
X-Treme 1.1% 67.7 0.6 1.8 98.2%
Aquila 1.1% 64.5 1.5 5.9 95.3%
GECO 1.1% 61.0 1.7 6.8 94.3%
WCC 0.8% 59.1 1.8 7.8 94.0%
CBC 0.8% 61.5 0.8 3.0 97.4%
Hornady 0.8% 56.8 1.3 5.2 95.4%
TULA 0.3% 62.0 1.3 4.9 95.9%
MaxTech 0.2% 62.5 1.0 3.6 96.7%
DblTap 0.2% 59.7 0.3 1.1 98.9%
PPU 0.2% 58.9 0.8 2.9 97.2%
SIG 0.1% 58.2 0.4 1.3 98.6%
Lapua 0.1% 61.7 0.3 1.0 99.0%
StarLine 0.1% 60.8 0.7 2.3 98.0%


There’s a bit more work in the above table than meets the eye. Specifically, the data was repeated; same lots of head stamps, but a different set of random sample cases (35 each lot). Anyways, there were some surprises, to me at least. But first, lets separate the winners from the “also rans”. I would divide these results into three categories: “EXCELLENT” (grades over 98%), “GOOD” (grades over 95%) and “…MEH” (grades under 95%). Grades are simply the calculated value of 1 minus 2 times the SD divided by the AVG, expressed as a percentage.

“EXCELLENT”: Lapua, Double Tap, SIG, PMC, X-Treme, Remington, Winchester, NATO, and StarLine.
“GOOD”: Perfecta, CBC, PPU, GFL, MaxTech, TULA, S&B, Speer, Hornady, Aquila.
“…MEH”: GECO, All Else, WCC, Blazer and Federal.


Lapua and StarLine were no surprise, but X-treme and Double Tap grading above 98% were. Perhaps because of their relatively small lot sizes; I dunno. R-P scoring so highly came as a surprise, as did Federal scoring so low. Federal’s nickel-plated cases scored much higher than their brass. Hornady’s low score also was a surprise; I’d previously regarded Hornady brass as being somewhat ahead of the pack. PMC and NATO’s high scores and low extreme spreads will induce me to place higher values on these products than I’ve had in the past. Bottom line: I will continue to sort my range pick-ups by head stamps, specifically segregating and reloading those that scored as “Excellent”, but I will greatly increase the number of head stamps that get thrown into the “JUNK BRASS/RECYCLE” bucket.

All this bodacious conogonizing probably won’t improve my shooting scores very much if at all, but it kept me entertained for a while and should reduce the effects of one small variable in my effort to find the perfect 9mm reload, if only in my head. Perhaps just some useless information to drive my imagination (…sorry Mick), but who knows, maybe it will be of interest to others. -S2
 
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Is this an example of " Overthinking It" , anal retentiveness or OCD ?

I feel incompetent ... in 52 in years of handgun reloading I've never even thought to weigh a case and what's worse is I wouldn't know what to do with the information after I compiled it .
I was never good with numbers...math classes always left me dazed and confused so I try to avoid numbers and calculations .
Gary
 
About the economy of reloading 9mm - I beg to differ. IF you cast your own bullets, then 9mm is one of the most cost effective to reload for the fact that the brass is free.
For me, the only brass worth sorting is benchrest rifle brass, or brass for my Contender pistol.
I rarely clean my brass. (Don't buy used dies from me.;))
 
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I like this and appreciate the time and effort it took to compile this data/results! :-) Been reloading since 1980 and have always segregated my brass by headstamp. While shooting on the Dept. of Correction Pistol Team, I reloaded my own match ammo and was meticulous about the care I took to trim/load each round.

Still separate my brass today, 9mm, 40 S&W, 45 ACP, 38 Spec and 357 Mag for handguns and 223/5.56 & 308 rifle. Guess I'll always be this way lol. Your results give me something to think about, I was a bit surprised at some of the results as well.

Hope your wife has a speedy recovery, can't wait to see what you come up with next! :-)
 
...and speaking of useless brass facts, I still don't understand why all other metals harden when quenched, but people who anneal their cases heat then quench them to soften the necks.
 
...and speaking of useless brass facts, I still don't understand why all other metals harden when quenched, but people who anneal their cases heat then quench them to soften the necks.

Cartridge brass is most commonly made of an alloy of copper and zinc, with the typical ratio being 70% copper and 30% zinc. This will vary by manufacturer, and trace quantities of other metals are sure to be encountered. Copper is a soft and malleable metal; zinc is a hard and brittle metal.

Hardening of the brass occurs as the cases are repeatedly stretched on firing, then compressed to proper dimensions for loading, and the majority of this occurs at the case neck and shoulder areas due to the stresses applied to those areas. The result is commonly referred to as "work hardening". Essentially, the individual components remain in molecular or strand configuration during the alloying process, and when stressed there can be some small degree of separation in the structure of the alloyed metals.

Annealing the case mouths and shoulder areas is done by heating the metal to a dull red heat, indicating that the temperature is approaching the liquidus state, thus allowing the metals to "re-alloy" by flowing together again and eliminating the separations caused by work hardening.

Quenching "freezes" the alloy at the point that the alloy structure at the liquidus state has restored (as best can be done by non-laboratory methods).

The goal is to restore the metal to a condition that allows stretching and reforming without the negative effects of the work hardening that has occurred over time and use. We are attempting to restore the metal to (as closely as we can) the condition it was made.

As should be obvious, the methods applied by a hobbyist are not completely consistent or 100% accurate, thus the results will vary from one hobbyist to another.

Hardening of steel alloys is done by an annealing process. Raising the temperature to near the liquidus state causes the various components (iron, manganese, nickel, chromium, etc) to reorient themselves in a matrix of molecules. Quenching freezes the alloy at the desired point. The difference between steel alloys and copper alloys is the relative malleability and ductility of the individual metal components.

Layman's explanation. I'm sure a qualified metallurgist will find points to critique, perhaps negatively reflecting on my understanding of the science.
 
No surprise on the PMC brass. For "budget" range fodder I've found the .45ACP brass to be the best for loading .451" JHP. It has thick case walls.
 
Thanks for all the comments guys, and I must apologize for the poor appearance of the spreadsheet data; it looked a lot better in Word than it does on my post.

A couple more thoughts on this stuff:

X-Treme brass was the heaviest @ around 68 grs per case, except for the stuff with "SP" in the head stamp. I ran into a few of those (~3 or 4), but culled them from the X-Treme lot for my analysis. Most other lots averaged around 60 grs (as did the X-Treme SP stuff). NATO brass was the second heaviest, averaging 64 grs. The lightest brass was Hornady's which averaged 57 grs. It's interesting that both X-Treme and NATO brass graded out as "excellent" whereas Hornady's results were "...meh".

I had thought about checking my results with brass that had been de-capped and sized, but my OCD muse must have abandoned me at that point. Anyways, I justified this lack of follow-up by rationalizing that all of my pick-up were treated the same; each case therefore had the opportunity to retain dirt or to have previously been reloaded and had some non-original primer installed. Either that or I just got lazy.

Again, thanks for your comments and for not hooting me off the forum. -S2
 
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Be on the lookout for Xtreme brass that has the ridge or "step" inside that was designed to prevent bullet setback. This stuff is brass that I wouldn't ever consider loading.

When the precision rifle guys want to compare brass, they don't weigh empties with primers in the them, they deprime, block the flash hole, fill them with water and compare their internal volume by measuring the weight of the water.

Metal make-up and differing primers will affect the weight of a piece of cartridge brass, but the internal volume may well be a better indicator or tool of comparison.

I used the term "MAY BE BETTER" because yeah :D in practice, I am not the guy who is ever going to bother with it, not even in rifle and for sure, never in 9mm.

Even still, I do not load scattered head stamps. If you open a box of my ammo, they'll all be wearing the same head stamp. Obviously that doesn't guarantee they are from the same production lot, but they have a chance at being similar.

As for being similar... I load and shoot a lot of 9mm and I stick completely to CCI, Blazer and Federal brass because that stuff is all (almost all... most?) made the same way on the same equipment. This 9mm brass is extruded and if you look at them you can see plainly how the case head is very slightly concave (and I do mean slightly!) and I believe that all of these former ATK-brands were all made in the same way, so I believe that I get SOME measure of consistency when I stick to using these particular head stamps in 9mm.

9mm, being so plentiful, makes this easy for me.
 
If it's not too much trouble, could you go back through the brass and measure case wall thickness and primer flash hole depth? I'm sure I'm not the only one dying to know! :)
 
Cartridge brass is most commonly made of an alloy of copper and zinc, with the typical ratio being 70% copper and 30% zinc. This will vary by manufacturer, and trace quantities of other metals are sure to be encountered. Copper is a soft and malleable metal; zinc is a hard and brittle metal.

Hardening of the brass occurs as the cases are repeatedly stretched on firing, then compressed to proper dimensions for loading, and the majority of this occurs at the case neck and shoulder areas due to the stresses applied to those areas. The result is commonly referred to as "work hardening". Essentially, the individual components remain in molecular or strand configuration during the alloying process, and when stressed there can be some small degree of separation in the structure of the alloyed metals.

Annealing the case mouths and shoulder areas is done by heating the metal to a dull red heat, indicating that the temperature is approaching the liquidus state, thus allowing the metals to "re-alloy" by flowing together again and eliminating the separations caused by work hardening.

Quenching "freezes" the alloy at the point that the alloy structure at the liquidus state has restored (as best can be done by non-laboratory methods).

The goal is to restore the metal to a condition that allows stretching and reforming without the negative effects of the work hardening that has occurred over time and use. We are attempting to restore the metal to (as closely as we can) the condition it was made.

As should be obvious, the methods applied by a hobbyist are not completely consistent or 100% accurate, thus the results will vary from one hobbyist to another.

Hardening of steel alloys is done by an annealing process. Raising the temperature to near the liquidus state causes the various components (iron, manganese, nickel, chromium, etc) to reorient themselves in a matrix of molecules. Quenching freezes the alloy at the desired point. The difference between steel alloys and copper alloys is the relative malleability and ductility of the individual metal components.

Layman's explanation. I'm sure a qualified metallurgist will find points to critique, perhaps negatively reflecting on my understanding of the science.

But if you heat a ferrous metal, the components realign. I get that. But if you quench it, it will be hard. If you let it cool, it will be soft.
If you heat brass the components realign. At that point why not let it cool? Why quench it?
And people quench lead to harden it. And lead, like copper is a soft metal.
 
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