I've seen the mod where you remove about 1/2 of the plastic that holds the cartridges. What advantage does it provide? I'm a C class shooter using a K frame. Is it worth my time to make this mod? I very highly doubt the speedloader is keeping me from advancing, but?????
speedloader modification?
- Thread starter kmca1
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
BobR1
Member
I looked up the instructions for the Modifications, and rewrote them to be I Hope more understandable.
EDITED Looks like no one is providing any details on the process, it is not all that hard to do at all.
DISASEMBLY: First get a small bowl, tuna can, etc to put the parts in so you do not have a pin or spring get lost on the floor!!!!! You have 2 small pins and a small spring that are easy to lose.
The Safariland Comp III Speedloaders have a two piece Top Knob, separate from the main stem. The top knob assembly is held on by a Blind Roll Pin. (The hole is only drilled part way through the top) To remove the Top Knob to start disassembly of the speedloader, heat a straightened paperclip and push it through the existing roll pin center hole in the Top Knob to mark the other side of the knob and then drill a small hole with a .093 drill bit back to the steel roll pin. This will let you drive the roll pin out to remove the knob top. Note: The Jet loaders have the hole all the way through. Push the roll pin through the hole and remove the top so that the shroud and large coil spring can be removed. You can toss the shroud at this point if you want to, you do not need it for the speed loader to work. I have not made up my mind if I like the shroud on or off best so far.
In the center of the loader is another cross pin, this pin holds the locking mechanism and trigger pin together. Push this pin out carefully with a finger holding the center Trigger Shaft of the cartridge locking mechanism in place so it does not fly out. (There a small coil spring under the trigger shaft) This should allow you to separate all the speedloader parts. Be sure and drop the small spring out of the locking mechanism shaft before you lose it.
The Comp III should be in 10 pieces including the shroud, pins, and springs.
SHORTEN CARTRIDGE HOLDER:
Using a belt sander, or similar device, sand the cartridge holder body down to about .3 of inch in length. The original length is .480, so you are removing .180 of material from the face. Take your time and sand it down evenly, checking the length as you progress so as not to cut the body down too far.
Use an exacto knife or similar knife like cutter to remove the plastic bur that the sander will leave filling the cartridge holes where the rounds fit in the speedloader, and around the body exterior cercomference.
Filling the Center Hole in the Trigger Shaft: You can now fill the center trigger shaft hole with epoxy using a tooth pick, or better yet install approximately a .150 stem size Tube Rivet using epoxy. The Tube Rivet could also be drilled and pinned to make sure it stays in place.
Reassembly: Install the cartridge holding mechanism back into the loader body. Align the pin slot in the cartridge locking mechanism with the slot in the body.
Drop the small spring into the cartridge locking mechanism and install the Trigger Rod. Turn the trigger rod to align the pin hole with the slots, and install the Solid Pin. It should be positioned with equal amounts of the pin out each side of the assembly or it will interfear with the Main Spring.
The main spring has the ends bent down to fit into holes drilled in both the body and inner top cap. Install the spring end into the hole in the loader body first. Install the inner top cap spring end into the hole with the cross pin hole end up. NOTE: The Cartridge Locking Shaft has a Flat Side. This corresponds to a Flat in the inner top cap. Rotate the top cap loading the spring to align the flats, and install the Inner Top Cap onto the shaft. Push them together till the shaft bottoms out in the inner top cap. Now reinstall the Outer Top Cap, and reinstall the Roll Pin.
Note: The instructions did not mention this, however my Trigger Mechanism was a little sluggish after reassembly. It could probably use a little Careful Light Sanding to slick up the function.
I do not make the rounds to all the matches within driving distance anymore. I just shoot in our Club Match, and have fun. In my case I would probably benefit more by practicing my reloading skills than doing the Speedloader modifications. After breaking a Comp III down and reassembling it, I will be doing the modifications to all 20 of my Comp III speedloaders. 10 K's and 10 L's.
As I said before editing this post, I figure about a half second was the maximum the modification would speed up a reload. As someone else below pointed out the saved times add up over a match. If I shaved off 2.5 points I might beat another Tupperware Gun.
Another thing about as important as the Speed Loader is the Speed Loader Carrier. I bought a couple North Mountain carriers for my K Frame 64. It was ok, but not my idea of a practical carrier for concealed carry. I did not find any carriers for the Safariland Comp III Speed Loaders that I was real happy with, so I went to working on my own design. After working on some different ideas, I ended up with one I liked. It is a one piece design that rides close to the body.
I reload using my strong side hand to operate the Speed Loader. When you operate the speed loader with your strong side hand, you need to position your speed loader on the belt infront of the holster.
Then you have ammunition. I shoot 158 grain Round Nose bullets. Semi wadcutters can hang on the chamber edges slowing down your reload.
You also need to have your chambers chamfered. A light chamfering helps funnel the ammunition right into the chambers.
Speeding up your reload time is not totally about your speed loaders. It is about your choice in Carriers, Your choice in Bullets, Your Revolver Chambers being Chamfered, as well as Practice performing your reload.
I originally thought that cutting the body down added cartridge movement to help with alignment.
It seems this is not the case at all. What I am gathering now is that the short body length helps to get the ammunition out of the speed loader body quicker, which lessons the chance of dragging a couple rounds back out of the chambers during the reload.
Filling in the Trigger Rod Hole should activate the loader a little quicker.
The speed loader modification should add a little speed, and probably most importantly it will pretty much eliminate dropping a couple rounds on the ground during the reload. Having the speed loader work as expected every time, with no mess ups is a big thing in a match. Nothing like 100% confidence that your reload will be pretty much flawless every time.
Bob
EDITED Looks like no one is providing any details on the process, it is not all that hard to do at all.
DISASEMBLY: First get a small bowl, tuna can, etc to put the parts in so you do not have a pin or spring get lost on the floor!!!!! You have 2 small pins and a small spring that are easy to lose.
The Safariland Comp III Speedloaders have a two piece Top Knob, separate from the main stem. The top knob assembly is held on by a Blind Roll Pin. (The hole is only drilled part way through the top) To remove the Top Knob to start disassembly of the speedloader, heat a straightened paperclip and push it through the existing roll pin center hole in the Top Knob to mark the other side of the knob and then drill a small hole with a .093 drill bit back to the steel roll pin. This will let you drive the roll pin out to remove the knob top. Note: The Jet loaders have the hole all the way through. Push the roll pin through the hole and remove the top so that the shroud and large coil spring can be removed. You can toss the shroud at this point if you want to, you do not need it for the speed loader to work. I have not made up my mind if I like the shroud on or off best so far.
In the center of the loader is another cross pin, this pin holds the locking mechanism and trigger pin together. Push this pin out carefully with a finger holding the center Trigger Shaft of the cartridge locking mechanism in place so it does not fly out. (There a small coil spring under the trigger shaft) This should allow you to separate all the speedloader parts. Be sure and drop the small spring out of the locking mechanism shaft before you lose it.
The Comp III should be in 10 pieces including the shroud, pins, and springs.
SHORTEN CARTRIDGE HOLDER:
Using a belt sander, or similar device, sand the cartridge holder body down to about .3 of inch in length. The original length is .480, so you are removing .180 of material from the face. Take your time and sand it down evenly, checking the length as you progress so as not to cut the body down too far.
Use an exacto knife or similar knife like cutter to remove the plastic bur that the sander will leave filling the cartridge holes where the rounds fit in the speedloader, and around the body exterior cercomference.
Filling the Center Hole in the Trigger Shaft: You can now fill the center trigger shaft hole with epoxy using a tooth pick, or better yet install approximately a .150 stem size Tube Rivet using epoxy. The Tube Rivet could also be drilled and pinned to make sure it stays in place.
Reassembly: Install the cartridge holding mechanism back into the loader body. Align the pin slot in the cartridge locking mechanism with the slot in the body.
Drop the small spring into the cartridge locking mechanism and install the Trigger Rod. Turn the trigger rod to align the pin hole with the slots, and install the Solid Pin. It should be positioned with equal amounts of the pin out each side of the assembly or it will interfear with the Main Spring.
The main spring has the ends bent down to fit into holes drilled in both the body and inner top cap. Install the spring end into the hole in the loader body first. Install the inner top cap spring end into the hole with the cross pin hole end up. NOTE: The Cartridge Locking Shaft has a Flat Side. This corresponds to a Flat in the inner top cap. Rotate the top cap loading the spring to align the flats, and install the Inner Top Cap onto the shaft. Push them together till the shaft bottoms out in the inner top cap. Now reinstall the Outer Top Cap, and reinstall the Roll Pin.
Note: The instructions did not mention this, however my Trigger Mechanism was a little sluggish after reassembly. It could probably use a little Careful Light Sanding to slick up the function.
I do not make the rounds to all the matches within driving distance anymore. I just shoot in our Club Match, and have fun. In my case I would probably benefit more by practicing my reloading skills than doing the Speedloader modifications. After breaking a Comp III down and reassembling it, I will be doing the modifications to all 20 of my Comp III speedloaders. 10 K's and 10 L's.
As I said before editing this post, I figure about a half second was the maximum the modification would speed up a reload. As someone else below pointed out the saved times add up over a match. If I shaved off 2.5 points I might beat another Tupperware Gun.
Another thing about as important as the Speed Loader is the Speed Loader Carrier. I bought a couple North Mountain carriers for my K Frame 64. It was ok, but not my idea of a practical carrier for concealed carry. I did not find any carriers for the Safariland Comp III Speed Loaders that I was real happy with, so I went to working on my own design. After working on some different ideas, I ended up with one I liked. It is a one piece design that rides close to the body.
I reload using my strong side hand to operate the Speed Loader. When you operate the speed loader with your strong side hand, you need to position your speed loader on the belt infront of the holster.
Then you have ammunition. I shoot 158 grain Round Nose bullets. Semi wadcutters can hang on the chamber edges slowing down your reload.
You also need to have your chambers chamfered. A light chamfering helps funnel the ammunition right into the chambers.
Speeding up your reload time is not totally about your speed loaders. It is about your choice in Carriers, Your choice in Bullets, Your Revolver Chambers being Chamfered, as well as Practice performing your reload.
I originally thought that cutting the body down added cartridge movement to help with alignment.
It seems this is not the case at all. What I am gathering now is that the short body length helps to get the ammunition out of the speed loader body quicker, which lessons the chance of dragging a couple rounds back out of the chambers during the reload.
Filling in the Trigger Rod Hole should activate the loader a little quicker.
The speed loader modification should add a little speed, and probably most importantly it will pretty much eliminate dropping a couple rounds on the ground during the reload. Having the speed loader work as expected every time, with no mess ups is a big thing in a match. Nothing like 100% confidence that your reload will be pretty much flawless every time.
Bob
Last edited:
imashooter2
Member
A quarter second improvement over a course with 5 reloads is 1.25 seconds. That's a lot of time when racing at the top of the division. Guys lower on the scale may well find more improvement elsewhere, but there is a reason why the guys at the top do pretty much everything they do...
tomcatt51
Member
I like my K frames and use cut down Jetloaders. They won't automatically make your reloads faster but they do make for more consistently good reloads. The cut down sides get the rounds pushed in the chambers better. Less chance of 4 in, 2 on the ground. The cut down sides do not make the rounds more wiggly. You want the rounds firmly held. Wiggly rds are one of the reasons the HKS speedloaders suck.
Jetloaders are nicer to mod than the Comp III's as they disassemble easily. Fewer chances of an "oops" while cutting them down.
- Joined
- Aug 21, 2005
- Messages
- 8,003
- Reaction score
- 7,068
Practice, practice, practice.
I suggest 50,000 to 100,000 rounds this year. And, no - I am not kidding.
I have never heard of a speed loader keeping a C class shooter from advancing.
tomcatt51
Member
The modded speedloaders make it easier to be consistent and avoid disasters.
Rds on the ground instead of in the chambers during a reload will play hell with an otherwise nicely shot classifier.
Last edited:
BobR1
Member
This does not deal with your Comp III modification. However it is another consideration gaining time on your reload.
I thought about another thing that comes into play during an IDPA reload. The cover garment. When practicing your reloading skills, you need to be wearing your cover garment. You need to decide the best way to rapidly access your speedloader while wearing your cover garment.
I had to think about what I do a minute. I pretty much reload on auto pilot.
I swipe the heal of my hand into my vest, and flare my hand to throw the vest open, then grap my speed loader with my thumb and my first 3 fingers and pull the speed loader up and out of the belt carrier located infront of my holster, strong side.
Bob
I thought about another thing that comes into play during an IDPA reload. The cover garment. When practicing your reloading skills, you need to be wearing your cover garment. You need to decide the best way to rapidly access your speedloader while wearing your cover garment.
I had to think about what I do a minute. I pretty much reload on auto pilot.
I swipe the heal of my hand into my vest, and flare my hand to throw the vest open, then grap my speed loader with my thumb and my first 3 fingers and pull the speed loader up and out of the belt carrier located infront of my holster, strong side.
Bob
tomcatt51
Member
FWIW I do the opposite. I cut off .300" leaving maybe .180".
"I have never heard of a speed loader keeping a C class shooter from advancing."
Like everyone else, I advocate a LOT of practice. That having been said, what are you C class in, USPSA? If so, there's so many reloads involved that it does end up being a substantial amount of time. I think the average reload time for someone who isn't well versed in speedloaders is around 3.5 - 4 seconds. On a 32 round field course, that ends up being at least 5 reloads. Cutting off a second from that reload time becomes a substantial amount of time. I think the cut and plugged speedloaders are DEFINITELY worth it.
Like everyone else, I advocate a LOT of practice. That having been said, what are you C class in, USPSA? If so, there's so many reloads involved that it does end up being a substantial amount of time. I think the average reload time for someone who isn't well versed in speedloaders is around 3.5 - 4 seconds. On a 32 round field course, that ends up being at least 5 reloads. Cutting off a second from that reload time becomes a substantial amount of time. I think the cut and plugged speedloaders are DEFINITELY worth it.
I really wish you had posted what sport you are shooting. ICORE classic? USPSA Revolver? Something else? There is no such thing as "C Class" in IDPA.
Just an observation if you are shooting USPSA Revolver, against clip fed guns, you are so handicapped with minor power and speedloaders already that speedloader mods are not the solution: a clip-fed 625 is.
sctman800
Member
I did this also and found out my Blade Tech holders no longer held the speedloaders securley.
