Speedloaders for J Frame S & W

smlake

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I have two J Frame S&W 5 shot pistols. One is a model 36-1 and the other is a model 38. I presently have Pachmayer grips on both pistols and desire to buy speedloaders for both pistols while keeping the handfilling Pachmayer grips. However, I would be willing to go back to my original wood S & W grips, particularly on the model 38, if needed, in order utilize a speedloader. What brands and models of speedloaders would work? Thanks in advance. Terry
 
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smlake:

Maybe just a semi-useful answer because I don't have S&W grips but Spegels. I imagine that the S&W grips have a cut-out like the Spegels. With the Spegels, Safariland speedloaders work very well. I got a bunch from Brownell's.

HTH,

Chris

p.s.--Welcome to the forums! You'll find good people here (imho).
 
I've had to modify all of the grips on my J-frame to work with speedloaders, but I just got a set of Precision Hideout grips and their Combat grips work fine. You can go wrong with HKS speedloaders, and if you want to spend the money the Five-Star speedloaders are great.
 
S.L. Variant is the best J frame speedloader in my opinion. Hard to find though.

Products

I also use HKS as everyone in the house is familiar with how to operate them. Many like the Safariland Comp I.
 
Safarilamd Comp 1 and HKS in use here! If you do go back to the original grips may I suggest that you look into a Tyler T-Grip! They work without the bulk. Dale
 
Bianchi Speed Strip

In my opinion, the best speed loader for a J is the Bianchi Speed Strip. The 642 does not have full length ejection for 38 Special and it is usually necessary to clear empties with your fingers after ejection. I find that I can reload quickly with Bianchi Speed Strips once I clear the cylinder of empties. I think that the chances of a reload with a 642 in time to make a difference are remote. Better make those 5 shots count.

For some reason, the steel frame Js seem much quicker to reload and the Ruger SP101 nearly as fast as a full size revolver.
 
In my opinion, the best speed loader for a J is the Bianchi Speed Strip. The 642 does not have full length ejection for 38 Special and it is usually necessary to clear empties with your fingers after ejection. I find that I can reload quickly with Bianchi Speed Strips once I clear the cylinder of empties. I think that the chances of a reload with a 642 in time to make a difference are remote. Better make those 5 shots count.

For some reason, the steel frame Js seem much quicker to reload and the Ruger SP101 nearly as fast as a full size revolver.

I carry two five round Quickstrips in their small pouches. In the bottom of the pouches I have two extra rounds. I have and have used the Bianchi in IHL pouches. I just prefer the little five rounders. Doesn't anyone else use them? TC
 
Pachmayr Compac grips for J Frames are designed to work with speed loaders.
I use Safariland, because you just push the bullets in and they are released with that one motion.
With HKS, unless you use one hand to stop the cylinder from turning,
it turns in the same direction when you turn the knob on the speed loader to release the bullets.
That is why I prefer the Safariland.
Just open, dump the used and shove in the new, close it and go.
 
But doesnt this sort of beg the question of why a speedloader when you have to clear the empties with your fingers? Absent full length ejection of 38 cases, these guns (at least some models) really are 5 shooters. I think the extra ammo simply makes the carrier feel more secure. With a 640 357 Magnum you have full length 38 ejection and that makes a huge difference to the point that the 640 is more like a 5 shot service revolver. With a 642 if you feel like you need a reload, you need a 2nd gun, aka "New York Reload". Better yet, use the 642 as a back up gun.

Now, consider the fact that I carry a 642 with 1 speed strip because I am simply not willing to carry a bulkier gun. It has 1 and only 1 advantage: nobody knows it is there except me.
 
I can tell from your remarks that I will need new grips to accomodate the speedloaders. My Pachmayer grips are probably at least 20 years old and are too bulky to allow the use of any speedloader. You guys have been extremely helpful and I now know where to start to solve my problem with these two really neat little Smiths.
 
I started with HTK and have reasonable success with them. Then I read about the Safariland and how you could keep your gun hand on gun and reload with your other hand. Made sense to me. So I have tried them, and tried them, but just cannot get consistent enough (yet to carry).

The HTK is a twist knob to release cartridges and Safariland is a push button which is the part about being consistent as it needs to line up pretty close to cylinder holes, any misalignment seems to cause a moments hesitation for cartridges to drop. Of course the whole point to me is to able to do this just as fast as you can.

Another factor with the Safariland is that they seem harder to reload, needing a flat hard surface, my hand doesn't seem to offer enough resistance.

Your mileage my vary, I really want the Safariland to work as it makes more sense to me. I have the same problem with J and N frames. I do not have stock grips but use CT, and they are staying on the guns.

Your mileage may vary, just my .02 cents. Maybe someone who uses Safariland can tell me what I'm doing wrong. (BTW, Safariland has a dvd to purchase on their site on this very sujbect, but I do believe that the site is the most difficult site to use)
 
But doesnt this sort of beg the question of why a speedloader when you have to clear the empties with your fingers? Absent full length ejection of 38 cases, these guns (at least some models) really are 5 shooters. I think the extra ammo simply makes the carrier feel more secure.



I found that comment interesting too but had a different reaction. I've owned at least a dozen .38 Special J frame revolvers and have never had problems ejecting the spent rounds (especially the first five in a clean gun).

The idea that extra ammo is some sort of "security blanket" is silly. The J frames can be reloaded just as easily as an other double action revolver.
 
I not sure I follow your comment about empties having to be removed by fingers.

Open cylinder, hold gun (barrel to sky) between 45 degrees and vertical, push ejector rod - the empties are removed without touching them, lower gun (barrel pointing to ground) insert HTK and twist knob (or Safariland and push button), close cylinder, your good to go.
 
I usually carry a J-Frame also, and I have been using a leather belt pouch for extra ammo or a Bianchi style Speed Strip. I just find the speed loaders awkward to carry. Granted, the two methods I use are probably not quite as fast as the Speed Loaders, but I ALWAYS have a reload with me, where as I could never stand carrying the bulky Speed Loaders.

chief38
 
I not sure I follow your comment about empties having to be removed by fingers.

Open cylinder, hold gun (barrel to sky) between 45 degrees and vertical, push ejector rod - the empties are removed without touching them, lower gun (barrel pointing to ground) insert HTK and twist knob (or Safariland and push button), close cylinder, your good to go.

WRONG on a 642-2!!! at least mine and it has been back to S&W 3 times over cylinder issues.
Open cylinder.
Hold gun vertical.
Hit ejector rod with left hand.
MANUALLY REMOVE 2 or 3 empties with ends of cases still in chambers.
Point gun toward ground and insert first 2 rounds from Bianchi Speed Strip. Rotate cylinder and continue loading or use a HKS Speed Loader.
Close cylinder.

IF You Are Still Alive after all this, continue trying to defend yourself.

The 640 38 Special does not do this.
The Ruger SP101 does not do this.

In my opinion, the 642-2 just barely meets the definition of a defensive weapon, and certainly not the definition of an adequate defensive weapon. I consider the 640 and SP101 both to be excellent and adequate. I purchased the 642 because I considered the S&W CS9 to be a bit heavy for daily carry, but considering the near absence of any meaningful reload capability in the 642-2, perhaps its time to revisit that CS9.
 
The question is which version of the 642 do you own? 642-1 (no lock) or 642-2 (lock). My gun has a history of cylinder binding and lock ups (not IL issue). It now actually works reliably, but is slow as all get out.

The 640 (no dash) is fantastic, what J is supposed to be. I purchased it as a replacement for the 642-2, but I keep on procrastinating about selling that 642-2 due to its light weight and the fact that I really dont care about it- so I dont mind the wear it gets being carried. Strictly speaking, I should rid myself of that 642-2.
 
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