Stainless Snubs

dghuppert

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I traded into the 629-6 Carry Comp III last week. Did the lock delete yesterday. It came with everything it shipped with back in 2006 including the labeled cardboard box for the aluminum pc case. I’m thinking about sending the 66-1 into the performance center for the glass bead finish. Has anyone done this? Is it the same finish as the pc guns?
IMG_1925.webpIMG_1923.webp
 
Stainless? OK

S&W 696 - the group is at 25 yards, there are actually 5 shots but I'm not sure which one is a double.

S&W696-44spl.webp

A "cobbled up" 3" 624 (started out as a 6")

S&W 624 3 in  Comp .webp

I custom Astra 3" .44 mag. I was given for my first retirement.

Astra custom 3in.webp

Not sure this one counts, but it does have a stainless cylinder ;) A converted model 58 to .44 Mangum, again groups are at 25 yards the better one is full house Federal 240 JHP at 1350 from this gun.

S&W 58 custom 44 - compressed.webp

I have several more "sub-caliber" snubbies but they aren't anything special.

Riposte
 
If you send it to S&W for work. You should probably expect it to come back with the lock reinstalled. As they tend to bring their guns back to their safety specs/standards before the leave their facility to avoid legal claims.
 
I have a S&W 65-5 that started out as a Tennessee Correction Officer's weapon. It was later refurbished and bead-blast refinished and sold off as surplus. Therefore, I deem it has little collector value. I bought it in 2015 and determined it would be a shooter. I have put thousands of rounds of .38 Special and a small dose of .357 Magnums over the past 11 years. It still shoots and looks great.

65-5.1.webp
 
If you send it to S&W for work. You should probably expect it to come back with the lock reinstalled. As they tend to bring their guns back to their safety specs/standards before the leave their facility to avoid legal claims.
The 66-1 would go in for the gunsmith work, not the 629-6. But thanks for the reminder.
 
I have a S&W 65-5 that started out as a Tennessee Correction Officer's weapon. It was later refurbished and bead-blast refinished and sold off as surplus. Therefore, I deem it has little collector value. I bought it in 2015 and determined it would be a shooter. I have put thousands of rounds of .38 Special and a small dose of .357 Magnums over the past 11 years. It still shoots and looks great.

View attachment 866722
That's a nice one for sure. Reminds me of one I saw at a gun show one time and didn't pick up and I regret it. That one was a model 66 with 2.5 inch bbl and was just like new. It was a Kentucky State Prison issue revolver that had a state symbol engraved in the side of the frame and was nicely done. Of course the engraved symbol would ruin any collector value but this revolver was just like new otherwise, I doubt that it had more than a box of shells ran through it. The dealer had $350 on it but was willing to deal. I wound up buying something else that made it a double mistake. :mad:
 
My suggestion would be to buy yourself a variation of grit sandpapers from 220 up to 1200 and some very fine (light gray) Scotch-brite pads. Refinishing a stainless steel gun is easy, not a tedious job and could easily be done in a day. I would however suggest detail stripping the entire gun before doing so. If done carefully the finish will come out GREAT! No shipping, waiting, risking the gun getting lost and you will save a bundle. Worst case scenario if you botch it, you could always send it in then. Seriously, it is not hard to do and the results are usually great.

HINT: Buy genuine 3M sandpaper and Scotchg-brite pads (not an off brand) as they work much better than no name sandpapers and pads.
 
You guys are talking about SW doing a bead blast finish. Is it possible to bead blast my own finish with glass beads or do I need to avoid that area? I have a blast cabinet that I use for Cerakote work.
 
If you can just blast exterior surfaces and avoid hitting the bore, chambers, extractor, etc., then you could DIY bead blast.
 

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