Static cling in the powder funnel

SLT223

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So this is pretty annoying when changing powders. How do you eliminate this? I read anti static spray by someone here, but I'm little apprehensive about spraying chemicals in my powder funnel.
 
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I had static issues when it was new. Now that it is dirty and has a nice dusting of graphite it isn't much of a problem. Bullseye has the worst static cling issues.

A small long handle paint brush works pretty well for getting the stuff that sticks.
 
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I eliminated static cling in all my reloading tools and powder measures by building my bench with the leading edge made out of a heavy angle iron. THEN I grounded the angle iron to a good electrical ground rod pounded into the ground outside. ............. Big Cholla
 
I eliminated static cling in all my reloading tools and powder measures by building my bench with the leading edge made out of a heavy angle iron. THEN I grounded the angle iron to a good electrical ground rod pounded into the ground outside. ............. Big Cholla

Or..... if you have a spare electrical outlet nearby, a ground wire from your press the ground socket of the outlet works good too. :D
 
Graphite will build up inside, providing a conductive path to dissipate static electricity. You can accelerate this process by wiping the inside with a dryer cloth. Use it on the outside of the hopper too. Static can build up there and make powder stick to the inside.
 
I use Static Guard spray. Spray it in your funnel and then wipe out with a clean, non-linting cloth. The spray is clear and leaves no residue.

Dryer sheets work too. An aluminum funnel helps as well. I use funnels made by Satern.

This is usually only a problem with very fine flake powders.

Mike
 
I agree that Bullseye clings more than some other powders. I've tried the used dryer sheet trick. Works well for places that I can get a dryer sheet into. Tumbler, inside and outside the tub of the powder measure, powder funnel. Can't get a dryer sheet inside of the powder measure output tube. Still have an issue there.
 
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I agree that Bullseye clings more than some other powders. I've tried the used dryer sheet trick. Works well for places that I can get a dryer sheet into. Tumbler, inside and outside the tub of the powder measure, powder funnel. Can't get a dryer sheet inside of the powder measure output tube. Still have an issue there.
I mostly use Bullseye for loading 38 special and meter with a "Lee Perfect Powder Measure". Ace Hardware sells a 1.13 ounce container of "Powdered Graphite Lubricant" in a small bottle. After running the entire bottle through the measure twice, everything in the mechanism that you can't get to must be reasonably well coated because it throws charges very consistently.

Admittedly, I also tap on the section of the measure under the hopper to settle the powder into the measuring cylinder and then again when dispensing. While setting up for a session and dispensing into an open measuring pan, you can easily see when you have "tapped enough" so that subsequent taps do not drop any more powder. That's how I arrived at three taps with my finger tip as sufficient.

A small square of double backed foam with a layer of synthetic chamois provides a durable outer layer making the impact zone comfortable to tap on with a bare finger. YMMV

Hope this helps . . .
 
I mostly use Bullseye for loading 38 special and meter with a "Lee Perfect Powder Measure". Ace Hardware sells a 1.13 ounce container of "Powdered Graphite Lubricant" in a small bottle. After running the entire bottle through the measure twice, everything in the mechanism that you can't get to must be reasonably well coated because it throws charges very consistently.

Admittedly, I also tap on the section of the measure under the hopper to settle the powder into the measuring cylinder and then again when dispensing. While setting up for a session and dispensing into an open measuring pan, you can easily see when you have "tapped enough" so that subsequent taps do not drop any more powder. That's how I arrived at three taps with my finger tip as sufficient.

A small square of double backed foam with a layer of synthetic chamois provides a durable outer layer making the impact zone comfortable to tap on with a bare finger. YMMV

Hope this helps . . .

Thanks. I also have the Lee Perfect. My process is much the same as yours. Pull handle up.. tap.. tap. Handle down.. tap.. tap. Two taps for most powders. Bullseye gets three taps.
If you still need three taps, even after running the graphite through there, then not much difference. I like the idea of putting something soft on the side of the measure.
 
. . . If you still need three taps, even after running the graphite through there, then not much difference. I like the idea of putting something soft on the side of the measure.
I suppose one could disassemble the mechanism to gain access to the internal surfaces for a dryer sheet treatment.

But, until another measure appears on my bench (doubtful) the risk of damaging the original deters me. Usually, taking something apart is a welcome challenge. But, in this case, the device works surprisingly well already. No point in screwing up a good thing, eh? :o

Thank you for the kind words, sir.
 
Take a look at the weighted aluminum/brass funnels from Satern. Well worth the few extra dollars in cost..........
 
When I refill the primer tube, I tap the powder measure with the empty primer tube and the little bit of powder that's sticking to the inside of the hopper falls to the bottom. But as has been said, as the hopper gets older and the inside gets coated, this isn't much of a problem.
 
Do NOT use plastic funnels with BLACK POWDER !!

Alum., copper, brass are all safe...........
I even opened up the hole in my aluminum funnel a little to
aid in powder flow and do not get any static.

I have a red plastic funnel but it just hangs on the wall.

Good loading.
 
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