Steel targets

[RYNO]

I work in a fab shop, and have a customer wanting some "pepper popper" targets made from 3/8 plate steel. He originally wanted these made from AR500 plate. After finding out the price he is rethinking that. He will be shooting 9mm mostly. My question is would 3/8" P&O stand up to most hangun rounds? or should it be an AR plate? Anyone have any experience using different grades or thickness' of steel?

Thanks,

Ryan

 

[OKFC05]

Been using steel poppers and plates in matches for over a decade, and shooting them a lot longer than that.

The problem is what you shoot them with, and there is a reason commercial poppers cost $200 and up: harder steel is less trouble.

If you only shoot lead at low speed like the SASS folks, mild steel is fine.
Even in IDPA, they last pretty well. When the IPSC folks show up with major 9mm FMJ, it starts denting it seriously.
And the first time some ******* shoots it with a rifle, it's ruined.
Deep scoops and holes in a popper are extremely dangerous, causing bullets to go who-knows-where.

 

[08Cayenne]

I've used corten for my local club, just because I had it laying around. They seem to be holding up nicely.

 

[G-Mac]

I'm not sure about 3/8" P&O (pickled & oiled) steel, but I've made replacement pivoting steel targets for dueling trees out of regular 3/8" hot-rolled mild steel (A36). I welded them to their steel bar-stock brackets using 1/8" E7018 stick electrode. These targets have endured many thousands of rounds of .45ACP with no problems to my knowledge.

Disclaimer...

The above is free internet advice.

I'm just a welder, not an engineer, so take this advice for what it's worth. You get what you pay for.

 

[wantmoresmiths]

I am a member of a league that shoots static steel targets. I also went out and bought some plates to use for practice. The league uses only AR plate, 400 or 500 bnh. The targets I purchased are also AR plate, I believe they are AR400. The reason for using the AR plate is that the hard plate does not "dimple" like standard carbon steel. Those dimples allow the bullets to ricochet in all directions. In addition, standard A36 plate will also "dish or cup" from being shot repeatedly on the same side. I have seen 9mm's loaded with lead bullets put dimples in standard A36 steel plate(3/8" thick), so while the 9mm major and 38 super loads certainly do quite a bit of damage to non-hardened plate, even lead bullets can be a problem.

If I were the owner of a fab shop, or even an employee making targets on the side, I would insist on supplying only the AR 400 or 500 plate, just to stay away from liability issues.

 

[G-Mac]

The reason for using the AR plate is that the hard plate does not "dimple" like standard carbon steel. Those dimples allow the bullets to ricochet in all directions.

Just curious...

what happens to bullets that hit an AR plate with no dimples?

 

[MKT]

Just curious...

what happens to bullets that hit an AR plate with no dimples?

They fragment into near dust, fanning out 360 degrees along the plane of the target.

I know very well what can happen when you shoot a dimpled steel target...especially if you do it with a .40 S&W. It is just like being shot, it hurts and burns at the same time, you bleed and end up at the hospital getting the better part of a bullet removed from some part of your body.

 

[H Richard]

The problem with the thinner mild steel is it will "cup" over time, and will cause more splatter back at the shooter. Dimples and cupping are accidents waiting to happen with targets less than 40 yards away. Whatever you do, make sure all shooters have eye protection.

 

[n4zov]

I think this article will answer your questions about steels for targets:

www.agarms.com/pdf/steeltargets.pdf

 

[RYNO]

Good info, thanks all.