Strain screw adjustment?

Sorry for the question but being new to s&w revolvers I was kind of miss guided when I looked at one of my k38's the strain screw was loose. This is why I asked how you adjust it. Good thing I asked here, thanks.
 
I'm not a fan of the ribbed mainsprings; they "might" be a little lighter, but they go "ting" instead of "SW click." Drives me crazy. Anybody else? I'm a fan of OEM mainsprings and 17 coil trigger return springs. Some judicious polishing of the rebound slide can help. Beyond that - shoot, dryfire (snap caps of course in a .22), shoot, dry fire. Occasionally, and I mean occasionally, a too long main spring screw might be carefully stoned a thousandth shorter, slightly rounded, tightened up, tested, repeat. Only do this if you have a supply of screws. My experience only.
 
Competition shooters use federal primers for the simple reason that they are the softest and do not give light strikes as other primers do.

Make 100 rounds, go the range, strain screw gets a dab of blue loctide and then you shoot a couple of cylinders. You like it you let it cure, you get a light strike you tighten the screw another 1/2 turn and done. Totally normal and everyone does it. The screw will go exactly nowhere after the blue loctide sets. Please do not grinds down the strain screw. That is totally unnecessary.

Before the above you also put a 11 lbs wolf return spring and that is about all you need. The stock spring goes in the box and all good.

Now if that gun will be you home defense or daily carry, maybe not...a reason to buy more guns just in case you need one (reason that is).
 
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