stripped out grip screw. what to do?

zoli28

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i was changing grips and i stripped the threads out of the receiver when i overtightening it. what to do now? epoxy? bondo? tap a larger screw size? ship back to s&w? thanks
 
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I would call S&W and see if they could do anything. If not, I would thing drilling it and re tapping the threads would be best. I would only drill as far as the stripped threads go, leave and remaining threads in place. The reason I would do this is because if you want to fix the trigger creep on your 15-22 you can easily purchase a 1/4"x28tpi X 1/4" "I believe" set screw for the adjustment. To drill this precisely all ya do is push the drill bit into the hole till you meet the good threads, leave the bit where it is and put a ring of tape around the bit as a visual aid for the stopping point. Good luck friend. Hope it all works out for ya!
 
I have no idea how you stripped out the threads for the grip fastener, you must have tried to put 200lbs of torque on it!

Sadly, the lower is a "firearm" so I doubt there is much that S&W can do for you other than to say "purchase a new rifle" but you can at least try them. The second thing that can be done, as has been suggested is a Heli-Coil or Keensert.

Now, no offense intended, but since you are not familiar with how much torque to apply to the fastener for the grip, I suggest letting a professional install the Heli-Coil or the Keensert. So if S&W is unable to help you, then you are going to need to find yourself a machinist.

Keep us posted!
 
A trick I learned while working on RC cars is to put superglue in the hole and coat the bolt or screw with oil and run it in. after the superglue dries the oil on the screw lets it back out without sticking in the glue. I don't know if it would work on a firearm but it worked great on my RC cars.
 
Okay, first thing is to determine if you CRACKED the receiver, or if you only stripped it out. Magnifying glass and a light.
Now, if you stripped it, and everything is otherwise OK, figure out what size thread you are working with. Let's say for fun you have a 9/16" bolt you have stripped out. A 10mm bottoming tap would up the size directly into the same hole with no pre-drilling.
Say you had a 6mm hole- a 1/4" bottoming tap is 6.25mm in reality. And a 7mm tap would conversely open up a 1/4" hole to a usable thread.

Cutting oil ( good motor oil will do) and a bottoming tap. Heli-coils are very good, and tested and proven as well.
 
Worse-case scenario, how much could one of our plastic lowers possibly cost? A stripped high-end forged aluminum one is around $100...I would think the S&W plastic one should be $35-$50?
 
Worse-case scenario, how much could one of our plastic lowers possibly cost? A stripped high-end forged aluminum one is around $100...I would think the S&W plastic one should be $35-$50?

The lower is a serialized "Firearm" and AFAIK S&W does not sell the lowers.
 
Worse-case scenario, how much could one of our plastic lowers possibly cost? A stripped high-end forged aluminum one is around $100...I would think the S&W plastic one should be $35-$50?

And how did you come up with that number?

A 15-22 lower costs very little to make, but costs the price of a new 15-22 to buy. The lower is the firearm.
 
i just spoke with s&w service. he stated that a stripped out grip screw is a rare occurrence; they do have a fix for it and they don't want me trying to fix it myself: if i screw up the lower, i've screwed up the whole gun and i've voided their warranty. besides, i don't think anybody makes an aftermarket lower for it yet. it only took about 40 years for the aftermarketers to start making aluminum ar15 lowers, right? anyway, i can go to their site, print a prepaid shipping label for free, ship it to them. they'll fix it for free and then ship it back to me for free. how great is that? thanks for the replies
 
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The lower is a serialized "Firearm"

I hadn't thought about that...my mistake. As for them selling the lowers, I would think (a guess) that they may make an exception under the circumstances. I certainly wouldn't expect them to warranty this. Nor would anyone expect the OP to "throw away" his entire rifle due to a lower issue.
 
i just spoke with s&w service. he stated that a stripped out grip screw is a rare occurrence; they do have a fix for it and they don't want me trying to fix it myself: if i screw up the lower, i've screwed up the whole gun and i've voided their warranty. besides, i don't think anybody makes an aftermarket lower for it yet. it only took about 40 years for the aftermarketers to start making aluminum ar15 lowers, right? anyway, i can go to their site, print a prepaid shipping label for free, ship it to them. they'll fix it for free and then ship it back to me for free. how great is that? thanks for the replies

Zoli,

Thanks for the update! Hopefully it won't cost you too much for S&W to repair it. I am glad to hear that they are equipped to do the repair (doesn't surprise me since they do tons of custom shop work). I bet she'll be better than new when they are done! And in the future, don't make things as tight.. You are obviously like me.. My internal torque wrench starts at 100Lbs/Ft :D
 
A trick I learned while working on RC cars is to put superglue in the hole and coat the bolt or screw with oil and run it in. after the superglue dries the oil on the screw lets it back out without sticking in the glue. I don't know if it would work on a firearm but it worked great on my RC cars.

Hey your right thats actually not a bad idea! I remember the days of my old RC 10 lol. Rock on brotha!
 
Just make sure when you do any fix you decide, stay off the WHEATIES before you tighten the screw again.
 
Great to hear! Good luck with the lower; you will be back in business in a few weeks.
 
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