Has anyone had success using any of the chemical stripping agents on nickelplated gun parts. I have a S&W hammer that needs this treatment, but want to get your take on this venture. I plan to color case the part. Comments are appreciated!
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Stripping Nickelplate
- Thread starter delta-419
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dfariswheel
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Brownell's sell a special stripper chemical for nickel, but it's kind of expensive for just a hammer.
Some people claim that soaking the part in a bore solvent will remove nickel, but you need to be sure whatever you use won't attack the metal if it's left in long term.
Hoppe's #9 is safe for very long term, but how long it'll take to remove all the nickel is a question I can't answer.
Bead blasting doesn't work well. Usually traces of nickel are left and don't become apparent until you try to do a new finish. Then the remaining nickel looks like white freckles in the metal.
The best stripping method is to have the nickel removed by de-plating. This is basically reversing the plating process so that instead of depositing nickel on the part, it's removed.
Some people claim that soaking the part in a bore solvent will remove nickel, but you need to be sure whatever you use won't attack the metal if it's left in long term.
Hoppe's #9 is safe for very long term, but how long it'll take to remove all the nickel is a question I can't answer.
Bead blasting doesn't work well. Usually traces of nickel are left and don't become apparent until you try to do a new finish. Then the remaining nickel looks like white freckles in the metal.
The best stripping method is to have the nickel removed by de-plating. This is basically reversing the plating process so that instead of depositing nickel on the part, it's removed.
TAROMAN
US Veteran
A local plating shop would be able to strip the part.
Engine49guy
Member
Unless its a rare hammer probably easier to replace it,
If your handy, like to tinker with stuff, feel like experimenting
and have an old worn hammer or trigger I have had some success on a set that the previous owner polished,
First scuff it with fine sandpaper to prep the part then apply Birchwood Casey Perma Blue paste unevenly in stages and it usually results in a close match to case coloring.
If you dont like the result you can remove it with fine sandpaper but experiment wth an old part first to get the "feel" o the stuff,
If your handy, like to tinker with stuff, feel like experimenting
and have an old worn hammer or trigger I have had some success on a set that the previous owner polished,
First scuff it with fine sandpaper to prep the part then apply Birchwood Casey Perma Blue paste unevenly in stages and it usually results in a close match to case coloring.
If you dont like the result you can remove it with fine sandpaper but experiment wth an old part first to get the "feel" o the stuff,
