Stubborn K Frame Sideplate

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Attempting to put a lighter trigger return spring in my new 617 (done this with several other SWs in the passed). Probably won't mess with the mainspring as most of my rimfire shooting is single action. Present trigger pull is 5.7 pounds.

To the point: the side plate moves only slightly when the grip frame is given significant raps (maybe only raises a 10th of an inch at it's rear). It stays snug and won't pop out. It pushes back in place with some moderate effort. It is tight enough I fear I won't be able to get it back in if I ever do get it out.

Suggestions?
 
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Take it off, put magic marker around the bottom part where it contacts the frame, on the edge of the sideplate. Put the sideplate back on the gun and tap it down with a rubber mallet or something non marring. Take it back off and see where the marker was rubbed off by contact with the frame. Use a fine file to remove material in those areas, keeping the file off of the outline of the outside of the sideplate. This will relieve the tight spots and make it easier to get on and off, without anything visible showing on the outside.
 
To remove the sideplate, turn the gun sideplate down, put your hand under the sideplate, put a towel on the edge of workbench, and rap the grip area down sharply on the bench/towel. The sideplate should come off in your hand. If it comes off, can't see why it would not go back on.
 
Thanks for the advice. I will spend some more time on this task when company leaves in a few days. I have rapped on the frame several times with some vigor with a Brownells plastic screwdriver handle. Only the rear part of the side plate popped up a little bit. It is the front portion of the side plate, under the cylinder itself, that appears to have the tightest fit and doesn't want to budge. I will try again with a little more vigor in my frame strikes.

I haven't really had a problem removing side plates before. I did have a significant problem putting one from a mountain gun back in a number of years ago. I had to carefully sand the bottom edge of the side plate to get it back in. I don't really want to go through that challenge again.

Thanks.
 
Put EMPTY cases or snap caps in the cylinder and with the side plate screws removed, dry fire the revolver a few times after rapping on the frame with your rawhide hammer, plastic hammer or what ever you are using.

Don't over do the dry fire thing, but the moving parts inside usually help dislodge the side plate some more for you. Then some more effort with the hammer/handle will generally get you there.

Turn it over in your hand so gravity is also helping you as many have stated.

They are swaged into place when fitted so as to get the very tight seam metal to metal fit.
The edges are made with a 'draft' or slight bevel to them. So once they initially release they should come apart fairly easily.
Some like to hang on more than others. Resist the temptation to pull it free by one of the lifted-up edges.

In fact place your thumb or finger(s) lightly over the edge that has come free so it can't come up/out any further.
That will avoid it pivoting on it's way out on a free fall which can leave those pucker marks in other edges of the frame where the side plate was 'stuck' and then levered/pivoted it's way free.

You want the whole piece to drop out at once or as nearly as possible to avoid those damage marks
that scream "The side plates' been off!"
 
When I first started working on S&W's, about 40 years ago, I read a gunsmithing book and it said, to remove the side plate use a "wooden" small hammer handle, ans hit "smartly" on the inside edge of the grip frame. I had a 2 oz ball peen hammer I use and it has let me remove every side plate I ever tried to remove. I do it with the plate face up, not down. It will just pop up and nothing falls out to get lost.
 
Let us know how it comes out if you don't mind. Kind of leery about trying to remove the side plate on my old revolver.
 
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