Stump removal

I have no experience using chemicals. My neighbors finally gave up after a year waiting for theirs to rot but I don't know what they used.

Guess I'm lazy cause I pay a local guy I know to grind them out if they're not close to the foundation. He digs if they're near the house.

I like more instant results.
 
Good luck!

In the early 70's, a friends mother wanted 4 or 5 large shrubs removed from her circular drive. She offered him $100 to dig them out.

That was a lot of money back then for youngsters and I had a rusted '69 Bonneville leper with a 428. Back then, cars only lasted a few years without rusting out, so late model beaters in Michigan sold for $400 - $500.

We wanted to go out and do our thing, so we used a tow strap and my car and had them out in about a half an hour. She balked at price when we were done, but a deal was a deal!

Innovation and raw horsepower beats hard work, all day long! ;)
 
Neighbor had some big pines to take out and made the mistake of cutting them close to the ground. he needed a front end loader to dig them out but it would have been way easier if he had left 6ft or so of trunk to give some leverage. shallow stuff like your shrubs are probably best taken out whole so it give something to wrap a chain around. some wacks with an axe to the surface roots will help too.
 
I'm partial to the "stump grinding removal suggestion.
Less labor and more cosmetically appealing in the short and long run.

I keep several gnarly old chains, a chewed up 25 inch chainsaw bar, and a modified Stihl MS660 for "stumping!"

Good luck!

I like the idea of using some gnarly old chains/bars of which I have a couple.
I'm just looking at getting them level to the ground and then planting Azaleas in between them for a new hedge.
The little Stump grinder still costs $265 a day from Iberia Rentals and as of now I do not have access to a pick up truck to go get it and I don;t think it will fit inside of blue
 
Take a spud bar and poke several holes in the ground close to the stumps. Get them as deep as you can, 24" is good. Next, grab a pail of shelled corn and pour a out 1/2 handful down each hole. If some doesn't make it into the hole, that's okay. Now, you are ready to remove the stumps. Get one or two, old boar hogs and show them the corn on the ground around the stumps. By the time they get all of the corn, the stumps will be gone!

Kevin
 
I've always had a bunch of nice fellas that don't speak English but have a solid grasp on the US monetary system show up and grind the stumps out. . . .

I'm cutting down a ligustrum hedge and will be removing the stumps by first killing them with a liberal painting of 41% glyphosphate and afterwards drilling them out and applying either epsom salys or Potassium Nitrate to sped up the rotting. Anybody have any experience with this method? Comments? Which would work faster Epsom salts or salt peter. I want to try to have the stumps pretty much gone by the end of April so I can plant my Azaleas
 
I like the idea of using some gnarly old chains/bars of which I have a couple.
I'm just looking at getting them level to the ground and then planting Azaleas in between them for a new hedge.
The little Stump grinder still costs $265 a day from Iberia Rentals and as of now I do not have access to a pick up truck to go get it and I don;t think it will fit inside of blue

Cut close to the ground they will grow back fast. I have removed a few by digging them up. I have also cut them down and watched them grow back when they got to big and tall. The ones I have dealt with were planted around 1957. They don't die easy.
 
As they say very few problems cannot be solved by the proper application of high explosives. It may however cause the local constable to visit so may not be the best way. LOL
Privit is tough stuff. No way will it be gone by April unless dug out completely. They root sprout like crazy.
Close to the fence and in a hurry honestly hiring some of our southern neighbors for a days worth of hard digging may be the best approach. You can sit in the shade and supervise and practice your conversational Spanish.
 
Counselor two suggestions. Times are tough and if you have a few extra bucks hire someone to remove them, it will be a two for one. You will avoid a nasty job and the people you hire will be grateful. Otherwise, cut the stumps at ground level, drill some holes in the stumps and fill them with undiluted Roundup, concentrate on the outer perimeter of the stumps as that is where the most nutrients or poison flows. You can then plant your new bushes between the stumps. A little mulch and you will be good to go. Roundup degrades quite quickly so don't buy the long lasting variety. I have employed both methods enumerated above and highly recommend the first!
 
Go rent yourself a backhoe for the weekend, company should deliver and
pick up. You may find it fun to use the machine and find other things
around the place that needs some digging. Keep in mind they will simply
charge you per day, an 8 hour reading on the hour meter. You may have
the machine for 2-3 days but every 8 hours you will pay for another day.
 
Cajun - Glyphosate remains residual in the soil. A good friend of ours who manages a 100 acre estate with 122 specimen trees, many of them national record holders, recommends a product called Crossbow.
It's an effective foliar herbicide, biodegrades in the soil, and I find it effective on shrub stumps if sprayed, poured or brushed on fresh cut stumps. Our next door neighbors had a massive plantation of forsythia hedge along our fence line that invaded our adjoining gardens every year.
When they moved, I cut it all down, sprayed undiluted Crossbow on the stumps and all the English ivy growing under and within it. GONE.
None of it came back.
Southern States, Walmart, Amazon carry Crossbow, about $50/gallon full strength. I buy it by the gallon full strength, dilute 1.5, 2.5 or 4 oz/gal water for foliar application, brush or dribble it on full strength for stumps.
I doubt you'll get the roots to rot by April no matter what you apply. Around here (central Virginia) we plant azaleas in the fall. It's too hot in the summer for a fresh rootball of most any shrub to make it through the summer without shade and intensive watering maintenance. By fall, the roots and stumps should be rotted fairly well, especially if you keep them wet. Couldn't you plant your azaleas then?
 
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My dad always drilled holes in the stump and filled them up with buttermilk to accelerate the rot.
 
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