subaru questions

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owned a 98 outback. good little car but it needed the head gasket repair. now looking to get an other one , in the year range 2002-2008 .
1 just when did the head gasket bug-a-boo go away ?
2 when did subaru start using the variable transmission & is it trouble prone.
?
3 how long lived is the 2.5 4 cyl. motor ? a lot of the ones , so far , that i am looking at have 120,00-180,000 miles .
4 is the six cyl. motor a good option in a subaru ? gas mileage ?

thanks for the info !
 
The bug-a-boo was really nothing. Change the head gasket every 100k and you're good.

The 2.5 is old and plenty of them out there with 300k miles and the bug-a-boo head gasket

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
 
Four years ago, I bought a new 2013 Outback with the 2.5 liter engine and the continuously variable transmission. It's gone nearly 40,000 miles with no problems at all.
 
My wife has a 2007 Forrester w/ the 2.5 liter four banger. Currently has over 140k miles on it. No problems, runs like a top.
 
I know a number of old Subies with >200K on them still running strong. The good news about those head gasket issues in the past was they leaked OUT, rather than into the oil. You could go a long time with one leaking a little if you kept up on coolant. Subaru even had a branded additive that would plug them if you caught them early. I still have a few bottles around. Wife has a 4 cyl. CrossTrek XV, 2014 that she loves. It's a hoot to drive.

And yeah, they're timing belts, not chains. Not particularly cheap to replace and critical. Last one I had done on the kid's 2000 Outback about 4 years ago cost nearly a grand as I recall.
 
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I have a 2011 outback with the 3.6L horizontally opposed six cylinder. My only gripe is that it burns a lot of oil -- usually 1.5 - 2 quarts every 6,000 miles. It's a known issue with those early 3.6L engines. As long as I keep a close eye on the oil level and check it frequently, all is okay. I feel that level of oil consumption is unacceptable on a 2011 vehicle. It has approximately 130,000 miles.
 
The last few years the 2.5 went back to a timing chain. I think some '13/14 models had issues with the oil rings causing excessive oil consumption.
 
I knew they were belts.
If they were chains, you probably wouldn't have to replace them.
I've never had one, but I have a kid who has owned several.
And several friends who have them.
There are a bunch of them all over the Mountain West.
 
I have a 2011 outback with the 3.6L horizontally opposed six cylinder. My only gripe is that it burns a lot of oil -- usually 1.5 - 2 quarts every 6,000 miles. ... I feel that level of oil consumption is unacceptable on a 2011 vehicle. It has approximately 130,000 miles.
Really, that is not all that bad, even for a new engine, let alone a 5+ year old one. IIRC, Ford had a lot of disgruntled owners when the factory said using a quart every 700 miles was acceptable on new / newish Ford engines. Yours is way way better than that.

A side note:
I have read that Subarus with AWD are very popular in Alaska. I do believe those folks know something about winter driving! :eek:
 
And yeah, they're timing belts, not chains. Not particularly cheap to replace and critical. Last one I had done on the kid's 2000 Outback about 4 years ago cost nearly a grand as I recall.

I have to wonder if the head gasket problems were related to 'burping' the coolant system, when changing/draining coolant. The EJ20 engines are a bit tricky that way...

AFA timing belts--read up on Subaru forums, it's not that tough. I did mine straight from forum reading, on my own, and had no problems. You can find kits with all sprockets & idlers (less cam wheels), belt, water pump and gaskets for around $450, last time I changed mine (done it twice, over 210K now).
 
I have a 2011 outback with the 3.6L horizontally opposed six cylinder. My only gripe is that it burns a lot of oil -- usually 1.5 - 2 quarts every 6,000 miles. It's a known issue with those early 3.6L engines. As long as I keep a close eye on the oil level and check it frequently, all is okay. I feel that level of oil consumption is unacceptable on a 2011 vehicle. It has approximately 130,000 miles.

I'm over 210K on EJ20. It leaked pretty bad from passenger side valve cover gaskets--got the kit from Rock for fifty or seventy five bucks, and did both sides (the passenger side goes out earlier from turbo up pipe heat), easy job.

The only other leak I had was around the oil filter. It seeped down around outside of filter case and blew back to various areas of the engine, so it was a little tricky to figure out. The culprit was a hardened O-ring on the filter pipe--the piece the oil filter threads on to. Was able to drop cross pipe and finagle the oil cooler out of the way and change the O-ring, without dumping coolant. Again, pretty easy once I got into it. The Subaru forums are very helpful.
 
15 Forester with the variable transmission and 2.5 engine. 58K problem free miles. You have to put gas in it and tires on it, change fluids when directed. The biggest trouble with the variable speed trans is you can't judge your speed by the sound. Far too often we look down to find we are going 90 mph as smooth as can be.
 
Had over 280,000 on my 98 outback before the 93 year old lady down the street turned into the wrong driveway and didn't stop. Changed the head gasket and timing belt at 150000 and was still running strong when I sent it to the scrap yard.

Rob
 
My wife has a 2012 Forester with a 2.5 in it. She will keep the car forever. We have it serviced every 6,000 miles and she has had no problems with it.

I, on the other hand, have had a 2014, 2015 and 2016 Forester Touring 2.5i. I don't keep mine long enough to go out of warranty so don't really worry about it. I've had my 2016 since Jan 2016 and am about to go over 9,000 miles.

Love the Foresters.
 
I owned Subarus from 1981 until a 2002 Model that I sold last year. I think once Subarus were made in USA the quality went down.

Another thing to be aware of. In 2001 Subaru changed the engine design from a non-interefence engine to an interference engine. If a timing belt breaks (or timing belt pulley seizes) on a non interference engine - no harm/no foul - the engine just quits. On the interference design if the same happens the pistons and valves crash together causing major damage about $2,000+ for valve job.

I had a pulley seize up and caused this. Always have the pulleys and belt tensioner changed out when changing timing belt. Subaru won't tell you this. I went around and around with the dealer and finally got them to reduce my repair bill to $1,200.

Won't buy another Subaru after that. Now own Toyotas!
 
Really, that is not all that bad, even for a new engine, let alone a 5+ year old one. IIRC, Ford had a lot of disgruntled owners when the factory said using a quart every 700 miles was acceptable on new / newish Ford engines. Yours is way way better than that.

A side note:
I have read that Subarus with AWD are very popular in Alaska. I do believe those folks know something about winter driving! :eek:

There's no way that I'd agree with Ford that consuming a quart every 700 miles is within acceptable tolerances.
 
I'm over 210K on EJ20. It leaked pretty bad from passenger side valve cover gaskets--got the kit from Rock for fifty or seventy five bucks, and did both sides (the passenger side goes out earlier from turbo up pipe heat), easy job.

The only other leak I had was around the oil filter. It seeped down around outside of filter case and blew back to various areas of the engine, so it was a little tricky to figure out. The culprit was a hardened O-ring on the filter pipe--the piece the oil filter threads on to. Was able to drop cross pipe and finagle the oil cooler out of the way and change the O-ring, without dumping coolant. Again, pretty easy once I got into it. The Subaru forums are very helpful.

The issue with mine isn't a leak. It is blowing by the rings. Threads on Subaru forums talk of poorly designed rings on the early 3.6 six cylinders. Subaru eventually corrected the problem on newer vehicles.
 
My 2016 Forester Touring 2.5 is great so far. Its my first Subaru after a run of Toyota's, and I'm very happy with it. The only thing that I find hard to adjust to is how long it takes for the transmission to catch up to the engine RPM when I accelerate quickly.
 
There's no way that I'd agree with Ford that consuming a quart every 700 miles is within acceptable tolerances.
A lot of Ford owners agree with you there, my friend!

I remember an episode of Motor Week (PBS show) where Pat Goss (super mechanic?) stated that he staunchly agreed with Ford on the "a Quart of Oil every 700 miles in a New Engine is Fine and Dandy" issue. After I saw that, he lost all credibility with me.
 
...I have a 2003 Baja with 225,000 miles...changed the timing belt at 133,000...need to do it again in about 13,000 miles...my biggest beef with the car is the rear suspension...when it wears out the rear end starts to steer itself...absolutely terrifying and dangerous on an icy road...I rebuilt the suspension myself...cost $1400 for the parts...have also changed the clutch...driveshaft...all four wheel bearings...and the ignition coil...it uses some oil now...but still has good power...and has been my favorite car...other than that rear suspension which was designed with unnecessary complexity...
 
My wife has an '07 Outback with the 5 speed, and about 130K. It does well, but that platform is a bit too small for my comfort, and it needs another gear. We went to Woodland CA (why yes, it was RottsOfFriends, and yes, I do recommend them) last summer to adopt a dog, and needed to take her car for the extra room for the dogs (Mya on the S/B trip, Mya and Ted on the way back). My legs and feet hurt afterwards from the smaller passenger area, and the noise from the higher rpms bugged me a bit. We drove each way straight through (it's only 700 miles, about 12 hours).

I have an '11 Legacy with the 6 speed, and get about 5-6 MPG better than hers (and about 900 rpm less) on the highway. It is the first car I have driven in which I did not have to put the seat all the way back (and in fact can't do that and push the clutch all the way in). I prefer sedans for the trunk, so that I have stuff out of sight on trips, etc. At 144K I see no sign of oil burning or other problems.

I expect to go roughly another 5 years, and if I had to trade tomorrow I would get an Impreza, even though they don't have the 6 speed and would be stuck with the variable. My goal is to stop using a car on trips and get a pickup based class C RV for the short term until we can go with a Super C (similar to a class A, but built on a semi-tractor).
 
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AFA timing belts--read up on Subaru forums, it's not that tough. I did mine straight from forum reading, on my own, and had no problems. You can find kits with all sprockets & idlers (less cam wheels), belt, water pump and gaskets for around $450, last time I changed mine (done it twice, over 210K now).

I just did mine on a 2006 Outback 2.5i MT at 44K miles due to age not miles. I planned to only replace the belt but once I opened it up I found a bad idler pulley - parts wholesale from the dealer were $60 for the belt and $55 for the pulley. The job is easy on subarus +1 on reading the forums.
 
I owned Subarus from 1981 until a 2002 Model that I sold last year. I think once Subarus were made in USA the quality went down.

Another thing to be aware of. In 2001 Subaru changed the engine design from a non-interefence engine to an interference engine. If a timing belt breaks (or timing belt pulley seizes) on a non interference engine - no harm/no foul - the engine just quits. On the interference design if the same happens the pistons and valves crash together causing major damage about $2,000+ for valve job.

I had a pulley seize up and caused this. Always have the pulleys and belt tensioner changed out when changing timing belt. Subaru won't tell you this. I went around and around with the dealer and finally got them to reduce my repair bill to $1,200.

Won't buy another Subaru after that. Now own Toyotas!

Some Toyota engines are interference also. Be aware of the service life of the belt and you will generally be okay.
 
I just did mine on a 2006 Outback 2.5i MT at 44K miles due to age not miles. I planned to only replace the belt but once I opened it up I found a bad idler pulley - parts wholesale from the dealer were $60 for the belt and $55 for the pulley. The job is easy on subarus +1 on reading the forums.

Yeah, just replace all the pulleys/idlers, and water pump, "while you're in there."

I made a version of the Subaru special tool to hold the driver's side cam wheels from snapping around, from two metric hex head bolts (M8? M10? CRS), a doubled up strip of plumber's tape, and six nuts. One nut under each bolt head (aligned to head), tape, and double-nut the bolt shaft on other side of tape.

Push the bolt heads into center of camwheels and tighten the doubled nuts...holds the camwheels steady but pulls straight out when you're done (don't bump it out, while stringing belt).
 
....my biggest beef with the car is the rear suspension...when it wears out the rear end starts to steer itself...absolutely terrifying and dangerous on an icy road..

Does it have composite endlinks on rear sway? Changing em out to aluminum makes a big change in how rear end responds...
 
I owned Subarus from 1981 until a 2002 Model that I sold last year. I think once Subarus were made in USA the quality went down.

Another thing to be aware of. In 2001 Subaru changed the engine design from a non-interefence engine to an interference engine. If a timing belt breaks (or timing belt pulley seizes) on a non interference engine - no harm/no foul - the engine just quits. On the interference design if the same happens the pistons and valves crash together causing major damage about $2,000+ for valve job.

I had a pulley seize up and caused this. Always have the pulleys and belt tensioner changed out when changing timing belt. Subaru won't tell you this. I went around and around with the dealer and finally got them to reduce my repair bill to $1,200.

Won't buy another Subaru after that. Now own Toyotas!

Subaru's are made in USA? News to me.

The timing belt tensioner is *always* replaced whenever doing any t belt work--it's a major wear item.

Sounds like you got a pretty spectacular deal on valves & timing belt etc replacement, if you got it all done for $1200.

AFA interference/non-interference...most engines today are interference. Ford and Mazda seem to have more
non-interference designs, but quite a few of them
are interference, as well.

Interference Engines - The Complete List - Your Car Angel - Your Car Angel
 
I drive a 2011 Outback and I have had no problems with it. I don't drive a lot. It has 58000 miles on it. I should be driving it for a while. My wife drives a 2014 Outback.

My Son-in-law's mother was involved in a wreck where they had to use the Jaws of Life to extract her. She bought an Outback because of the safety features.
 
I am pretty sure that most US sold Subarus are made in Indiana. I had a Ford Escort over 30 years ago that let a timing chain go, and that was a terrible expensive mess, probably more than the car was worth.
 
Outbacks and Legacys are made in Indiana. Unless they recently changed, other models are made in Japan.
 
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