Looking for suggestions on how to remove a stuck stop plunger spring. It still has spring to it but suspecting it may be damaged or broken since it isn't coming out even with some pressure on the plunger. Yes the screw was removed.
Suggestions to remove stop plunger spring?
- Thread starter Matt_X
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I use a steel dental pick to gently tug the spring out through the screw hole, the plunger should fall out once the spring is out of the way.
I have used a pipe cleaner. If the spring doesn't come out easy some solvent should loosen it.
I have also had good luck with dental picks.
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Dental picks are indispensable for working on guns and other small parts. I used to always ask my Dentist about his old tools that he was going to throw out - he gave me quite a stash over the years! I have also reground and reshaped a bunch of them for specific jobs - I even made a few screwdrivers out of them for miniature eyeglass screws.
Other great tools for working on guns are a GOOD assortment of high quality tweezers. They make very long and very thin needle nose tweezers that would also work well in your spring situation. A few rounded and a few straight ones are great to have. Probably the best place to get those from are a medical or lab supply store.
Other great tools for working on guns are a GOOD assortment of high quality tweezers. They make very long and very thin needle nose tweezers that would also work well in your spring situation. A few rounded and a few straight ones are great to have. Probably the best place to get those from are a medical or lab supply store.
Take it outside and use the nozzle tube on a can of choke and carb cleaner. Spray the heck out of it and you will likely free the spring. Using very thin tweezers, and grinding one down to fit the hole, it should pull right out. The factory switched to a flat base screw in later models and it sometimes distorted and damaged the spring if not installed properly, making it hard to remove.
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Thank you all.
Working with what I had on hand, used Kroil to reduce any gummy oil residue.
The tube would slip inside the first coil or two but not grab.
So next went to dental picks to see what I could do. I was trying to encourage the end coil away from the wall and into the threaded section but no luck. However observing that pressing down on the coils will cock one so it was way from the wall, I tried two picks. Tweezers probably would have been easier but two picks worked.
Questions:
1. Is the screw pictured a later 'flat base' ?
If so, I can look for on more appropriate to this '42 Victory.
2. Should the stop, or stop and plunger be replaced?
See photos.
The plunger looks OK to me, but the stop's slot seems oddly worn or filed.
The stop was slow in releasing from the trigger in double action. I polished the nose a little but was thinking it could be the spring and or stop also contributing. ??
Working with what I had on hand, used Kroil to reduce any gummy oil residue.
The tube would slip inside the first coil or two but not grab.
So next went to dental picks to see what I could do. I was trying to encourage the end coil away from the wall and into the threaded section but no luck. However observing that pressing down on the coils will cock one so it was way from the wall, I tried two picks. Tweezers probably would have been easier but two picks worked.
Questions:
1. Is the screw pictured a later 'flat base' ?
If so, I can look for on more appropriate to this '42 Victory.
2. Should the stop, or stop and plunger be replaced?
See photos.
The plunger looks OK to me, but the stop's slot seems oddly worn or filed.
The stop was slow in releasing from the trigger in double action. I polished the nose a little but was thinking it could be the spring and or stop also contributing. ??
Attachments
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Looks like it. The threads were turned off the earlier screw and that section pushed down inside the spring. You can see that the top of the spring is deformed, likely by catching the bottom of the screw as it was tightened. I think a new spring and care when replacing the screw will allow the stop to work correctly.
Thank you.
I see there are a couple different types of springs for sale. One with open ends (like the one out of this gun) and another with with more coils and closed ends. Closed ends probably less likely to get caught in the threads.
I see there are a couple different types of springs for sale. One with open ends (like the one out of this gun) and another with with more coils and closed ends. Closed ends probably less likely to get caught in the threads.
Another very useful thing to have on your workbench when dealing with tiny screws and springs is a piece of magnetic sign vinyl, which will prevent them from wandering. I got a piece from a local sign shop. It seems the back side is the magnetic layer and is black, but you can get a white one for about $10 on Amazon.
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Here's a photo replacement spring (new) which measures the same as the old spring other than free length. While I didn't use it right away, I did install it after fitting another stop.
The replacement screw I bought is the same style, so it will just go in the spare parts stash.
The replacement screw I bought is the same style, so it will just go in the spare parts stash.
