SW 686 or Ruger GP100 357: Buffalo Bore 158 gr rounds

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I have been told that the SW 686 won't hold hold up over time compared to the Ruger GP 100 when Buffalo Bore 158gr rounds are used repeatedly. I have a deposit on a SW 686+, but now am having second thoughts.

Does anyone have firsthand experience with heavy 357 magnum loads used in these two revolvers please? I will be using the revolver for potential self defense while outdoors in California and Oregon.
 
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I will concede to those with more experience but I've put thousands of 158gr .357 through my 686, some, certainly not all were BB 158's and she's just breakng in. I've shot some of their 180gr hard cast and they have a punch but I can't imagine that the 686 coudn't handle that consistently either. I think I'd run out of money before I'd run out of gun.
 
Don't believe everything you hear. Yes I do not own a ruger, but I do own a 686, and I have fired well over 5,000 of my own stout 140gr. 357 handloads with NO PROBLEMS! (18.0gr. charge of H-110 with 140gr. Hornady XTP bullets, with a chrono speed of 1390fps.) My 4" 686 shoots like a dream after 6 years, I would say I have also shot over 5,000 rounds of 38 Special handloads in this same time period. To each his own, I would probably own a Ruger if I did not own S&W's, but I love my Smith's so I don't see any Rugers in my future.
Good Luck on whatever you decide to buy, and Good Shooting----Riflemann
 
Sir,

Buy the 686+ and shoot heavy loads to your heart's content. The Smith L-frames were developed for them. Strictly speaking they may not be built AS heavily as the Ruger, but that doesn't mean they "won't hold up over time".

I have two plus models, and shoot nothing but the infamous, fire-breathing 125gr. load; and it doesn't fase my guns. I'm aware that BB loads are stout, but not stout enough to wear out a 686 for a long, long time.

Best wishes,
Andy
 
Whoever told you that is someone who should not be listened to. Because he does NOT have a thorough knowledge of either of these handguns. In fact, he is likely to be one of those self professed "Experts" who is not the least bit expert.

The S&W L frame was designed specifically to address some areas of weakness in the smaller K frame that was exposed when high velocity 357 Magnum featuring bullets lighter than 140 grains was used in the K frames. This weakness was a small flat on the bottom of the barrel extension inside the frame window that was required with the smaller diameter cylinder used on the K frame revolvers. With the L frame the cylinder was made slightly larger in diameter and that change allowed a larger diameter barrel extension into the frame and a fully round extension without any flat to cause a weak area.

The end result is a revolver every bit as strong as Ruger's GP100 with the advantage of a superior mainspring system that allows a much more refined trigger feel.
 
You're posting this on a S&W forum. Results should be expected. Final answer IMO is, why not have both? If it bothers you now, it probably always will. We will never individually have the collective experience of others that may reply. I've owned both and it's a matter of personal preference.
 
I'll give my standard response to these questions in terms of running the heaviest rounds you can all the time in a specific caliber...why? Do you run your vehicle on the floorboard all the time? And if you did how long would it last?

The 686 will last a lifetime (or two...or three) and would require a lot of $$ in any ammo to begin to wear it out. A .357 shoots like a .357 and standard factory ammo is plenty of fun. If you want it to shoot like a .44mag then go get a .44mag!!:rolleyes:

Yes, I have a couple of Rugers and I like 'em fine but they just aren't as slick as a Smith. As another post noted this is a S&W forum so, yes, I like the Smith's better. But you know what? Just like you shouldn't let whomever tell what gun you should get...don't let me do it either. Go get whatever you want and enjoy...life is short.;)

edit: My dad has hand loaded since I was a kid and he once had a very nice Browning 30-06 auto. For years he ran the hottest loads he dared through that gun. Well, it finally needed some work due to the constant beating he put on it. He now has a Browning bolt 30-06 and has backed off on the Rambo loads and has found that not only is the gun more fun to shoot but the "hottest" loads are rarely the most accurate and only serve to beat on your gun and in this case, your shoulder! Stout loads are fun from time to time but served up regularly?...nothing to gain.
 
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I own both and have shot everything in between through the two including the hottest of the hottest loads. Both of them can handle them. If I had to choose which to buy, its a no brainer the 686. I love Smith Wesson and the 686's take the cake.

Eric
 
I've owned many guns of each type and dearly love both. I don't have the experience to answer your question but I it's been aptly answered above. I will add though, that I've had a few older gunsmiths that do a lot of testing tell me essentially this:

You will wear your hand out before either of those 2 guns. But, both told me that is they were pinned down they said that if someone was going to be shooting crazy hot wildcat loads they would tell them to stick to the Ruger. They are that much overbuilt.
 
A 686 was built to run full power 357 loads. You can shoot nothing but thousands and thousands of rounds of 357 through it for decades. With proper cleaning and maintenance it will be passed down to your heirs. Same for the Ruger.

Smiths are much better looking, have a much nicer fit and finish, and operate much smoother than a Ruger revolver. Rugers are less expensive for a reason.

Both guns are very durable. Rugers tend to be overbuilt, and too heavy. There is a reason for that, it is cheaper to throw hunks of steel at an engineering problem rather then employ craftsmanship and unique designs to make something lighter and more attractive, yet equally as durable. I tend to think Rugers are ugly because they are bulky and heavy.

Would anyone really run Buffalo Bore loads exclusively through their gun at over $1.50 a pop? If you can afford to shoot Buffalo Bore ammo exclusively, you can afford both guns.

Nothing would hold up well being exposed to the harshest load all the time in any caliber. Be it a 22lr or a 50BMG, a Ruger or a Smith.

Also I hope you don't believe everything you hear. "This guy once told me..."
 
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Get the 686 and shoot the hell out of it. YOU will be falling apart before it does. And, if it craps out, buy another one. It's a freakin' $650 gun, not a Bugatti Veyron.
 
I went with the 686. Shot over 400 rds through it so far in the past couple wks ive had it. 158gr is actually more accurate from what I can tell. Looks brand new except for the cylinder. The little bit of powder on it doesnt bother me, but im sure I could scrub it off. Plan to keep it til my sons are older.
 
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Just to be non biased.....

Both the Ruger and the Smith L frame will take all the hot loads you want to shoot.

There HAS been special data published for the Ruger BlackHawk because being a single action with a solid frame, unlike a DA where the cylinder yoke takes a good part of the frame and the cylinder is 'snapped' in place. By virtue of being a SA and a Ruger, they are built tough.

If you are shooting a majority of heavy loads, you may want to consider an S&W mod 27 or 28 N frame. It'll be a little easier on the hands/wrists.
 
A 686 was built to run full power 357 loads. You can shoot nothing but thousands and thousands of rounds of 357 through it for decades. With proper cleaning and maintenance it will be passed down to your heirs. Same for the Ruger.

Smiths are much better looking, have a much nicer fit and finish, and operate much smoother than a Ruger revolver. Rugers are less expensive for a reason.

Both guns are very durable. Rugers tend to be overbuilt, and too heavy. There is a reason for that, it is cheaper to throw hunks of steel at an engineering problem then employ craftsmanship and unique designs to make something lighter and more attractive, yet equally as durable. I tend to think Rugers are ugly because they are bulky and heavy.

Would anyone really run Buffalo Bore loads exclusively through their gun at over $1.50 a pop? If you can afford to shoot Buffalo Bore ammo exclusively, you can afford both guns.

HARRISHMASHER SAID IT ALL. WHY YOU WOULD WANT TO SHOOT THAT AMMO ALL OF THE TIME IS BEYOND ME. THAT AMMO IS BUILT FOR A SPECIFIC PURPOSE, NOT TARGET SHOOTING OR JUST RECREATIONAL SHOOTING. I GUESS THAT YOU DON'T LIKE HAVING SOME CASUAL FUN WITH YOUR REVOLVERS. IN ANY EVENT, YOU ARE NOT GOING TO BREAK YOUR 686. YOU MAY BREAK THE BANK BUYING THAT AMMO, HOWEVER…….
 
My Smith 686 shoots 158gr .357 loads with no problem, though they've been in other brands than Buffalo Bore (BB).

As for Buffalo Bore, I shoot nothing but Buffalo Bore 158gr JHP in my CCW Ruger SP101, because they (and only they) shoot exactly to point of aim for me in that gun.

I don't believe BB 158gr loads will harm your 686.
 
140 grain at 1390? That's not a Magnum load. That's a castrated magnum load.
 
Some I'm guessing your next question will be "What's Better Ford or Chevy?"

I own both Rugers (3 GP100's 1 Ruger Redhawk 44) and a Smitih and Wesson 500 Magnum 6.5 inch. They ALL take hot loads and shoot them well. I bought these guns because they feel good in my hands (I'm ambi) and I shoot them well. I don't use hot loads all the time, but when out in the woods the Buffalo Bore, Garretts or HSM are loaded up, depending on my mood. However for Brown Bear it the 500 magnum without a doubt. In California and Oregon either .357 will do you fine.
 
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If somebody wants to shoot...

If somebody wants to shoot a lot of hot loads for target, hunting, whatever, there's nothing wrong with that. Since i reload, I can afford it if I wanted to do it. The problem for me is, they hurt. Not so much shooting, but in the days after.
 
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