I just bought a used SW40E pistol. It shoots very accurate and I really like the feel. However shooting 180gr LFN bullets @ 940 fps it misfed about every 3 rd. I used HP38 powder and Tightgroup. HP38 was the worst of the 2. What is a good reload (bullet and powder) for this pistol.
SW40E Reloading question
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FrankD45
Absent Comrade
First of all, welcome to our merry band.
That said, while I do load .40 S&W I do not have a SW40E, so all I can do is speak in generalities. I think failure to feed is usually related to a fault somewhere in the reloading process. In my experience it generally has to do with overall length or the crimp. They would be the first things I would check. A good start would be to measure those dimensions and compare to factory ammunition.
I hope that helps,
Frank
That said, while I do load .40 S&W I do not have a SW40E, so all I can do is speak in generalities. I think failure to feed is usually related to a fault somewhere in the reloading process. In my experience it generally has to do with overall length or the crimp. They would be the first things I would check. A good start would be to measure those dimensions and compare to factory ammunition.
I hope that helps,
Frank
FrankD45
Absent Comrade
Is it possible the the case neck is hanging up? I have seen similar if the taper crimp is not sufficient. I have loaded and fired flat point 180 gr rounds in my S&W with a ramped barrel as well as my Beretta with no problems. I would still check the dimensions against a factory round to see if anything jumps out.
Frank
Frank
I reloaded more of the 40 S&W 180gr LFP bullets and shortened the OAL 1.100. 15 with 4.1 gr HP38 (950fps) and 15 with 3.7gr HP38 (850 fpd). No hangups with the lighter load and 2 with the heavier load. Does this indicate week springs either the recoil spring or magazine spring?
FrankD45
Absent Comrade
The two things mentioned are both causes of FTF. If the mag spring is weak, the FTF is usually the last round in the mag. If the FTF is random I would lean toward a weak recoil spring.
Frank
Frank
uzisandfloozies
Member
assuming you have a micrometer (since you quoted OAL) be sure to check the cartridge rim diameter/headspace diameter, to be sure that it is properly taper crimped. the belling must be completely removed, but there still needs to be a distinct edge to the rim. factory rounds are typically a couple thousandths of an inch less than what is in the books as factory dimensions.
otherwise, be sure to check each round in a case gauge. gauges are supposedly reamed out to the SAAMI specs for the cartridge, and the chamber/breech of the barrel is supposed to be just slightly bigger than SAAMI spec. to insure proper feeding.
otherwise, be sure to check each round in a case gauge. gauges are supposedly reamed out to the SAAMI specs for the cartridge, and the chamber/breech of the barrel is supposed to be just slightly bigger than SAAMI spec. to insure proper feeding.
