Switch barrels ?
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bananaman
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I have never had to mess with something like that. I (speaking for myself) would only put a .38 Special barrel on it. Check to see if there are any for sale on this Forum. Have seen them on ebay. Do you know how to install a barrel, or have a capable person to do it at a reasonable price? Bob
The bore in a 38 S&W barrel is larger than a 38 Spl barrel. Not good for accuracy unless you reload and use .360" diameter bullets in your .38 Spls.
Jack Flash
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I sure would exhaust all leads on finding a .38 Special barrel first. Only as a last resort would I consider installing a .38 S&W barrel.
You see them from time to time in the Forum Classifieds. Also, you may post a Wanted to Buy. Someone may have a few they would part with, but have never bothered to advertise.
You see them from time to time in the Forum Classifieds. Also, you may post a Wanted to Buy. Someone may have a few they would part with, but have never bothered to advertise.
DWalt
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To answer your question, a .38 S&W barrel will work. For casual use, their grouping capability is generally OK, even with .357 bullets. For many years I reloaded .38 S&W cartridges using .357-.358" diameter lead bullets, and they shot fine in all of my .38 S&W revolvers. Also, .38 hollow-base wadcutter bullets will always be excellent performers in larger diameter bores. But finding a .38 Special replacement barrel is the preferred strategy. Keep in mind that swapping a barrel yourself is not as simple as it may seem if you do not have experience in properly fitting them and lack the correct tools. It's not too difficult to irreparably bend a frame.
The removal of a pinned barrel is not a casual affair. First, removal of the pin and extensive soaking. The jig and wrench are not Ace Hardware purchases. You kink the frame and you got a paperweight. Just my advice.
I have had a lot of barrels spun correctly. And the same re-installed.
Just my 2 cents from an old smith who is just south of 70. Mike 2796
I have had a lot of barrels spun correctly. And the same re-installed.
Just my 2 cents from an old smith who is just south of 70. Mike 2796
opoefc
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vv0350 Please see PM. Ed.
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vv0350
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This is what I have got…it was caught in a house fire and I reclaimed it..have it 99% back to working but the barrel looks iffy to me..but I'm not a smith….nothing moved on it when I started..nothing..about 25 hours of work so far….
StrawHat
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If it has been in a fire, I would have to do a lot of soul searching before firing it. Did it get hot enough to weaken the springs?
38 Special
If it was in a fire and the carbon was extracted from the metal (metal will look laminated) before its cleaned up, chances are the heat treatment of the cylinder may be impaired making it brittle. That might be a safety concern. I believe S&W started heat treating M&P cylinders in the early 1920s. It all depends on how hot the gun got in the fire. Did it burn off the wood grips? Is the barrel warped? Just a few things to consider. Good luck with your project.
If it was in a fire and the carbon was extracted from the metal (metal will look laminated) before its cleaned up, chances are the heat treatment of the cylinder may be impaired making it brittle. That might be a safety concern. I believe S&W started heat treating M&P cylinders in the early 1920s. It all depends on how hot the gun got in the fire. Did it burn off the wood grips? Is the barrel warped? Just a few things to consider. Good luck with your project.
opoefc
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vv0350 - Did you get my PM ? Ed.
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vv0350
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It got hot enough to burn off the grips…didn't notice any laminating, just a lot of rust….a lot…..the cylinder ejection spring was a little weak but I pulled it out just a little and it works fine now. Rest of the springs are ok…It was in a gun safe when the house burned down..I believe several guns were loaded and went off in the safe…about 16 guns..long and short…about 5 thousand $ worth. Maybe I should just leave it as a wall hanger...
DWalt
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It's possible that the temperature reached inside the safe was not high enough to soften the hardened components, but there is no good way to tell without metallurgical analysis. The usual "one size fits all" advice is to consider any gun which has been in a fire as being unsafe to use. At the very least, I would not use anything but the lightest target handloads in it. Remember, soft steel was used by S&W until after WWI, and those guns worked OK.
ironhead7544
Member
You could have the original barrel relined.
You said the barrel looked "iffy". Is the bore pitted badly? Try wrapping some material from an all copper Chore Boy scouring pad around a brush for a very tight fit in the bore. Give it a good scrub using solvent. Often, 38 Special bores are badly leaded from firing soft factory lead bullets and then not cleaning.
Even if the bore is pitted it may shoot jacketed bullets OK.
You said the barrel looked "iffy". Is the bore pitted badly? Try wrapping some material from an all copper Chore Boy scouring pad around a brush for a very tight fit in the bore. Give it a good scrub using solvent. Often, 38 Special bores are badly leaded from firing soft factory lead bullets and then not cleaning.
Even if the bore is pitted it may shoot jacketed bullets OK.
ironhead7544
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Bronze wool is OK too.
DWalt
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Interesting. My Chore Boy box says only "Copper Scrubber" "Will not rust" It says nothing anywhere on the box about being copper coated steel. Also, it is not attracted by a magnet. Maybe the new Chore Boy is different, my box is several years old. I did notice that Dollar Tree sells a similar scouring pad that also says it is made of copper, no mention of being copper coated steel. It looks like the Chore Boy pads.
ironhead7544
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Chore Boy makes both types. Take a magnet with you.
