T-Grip S&W J frame Airweight

38SPL HV

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I've just installed a T-Grip to my S&W 642 j frame Airweight. I've tried smooth splinter grips but recoil with even 3.5 grs Bullseye and 158 gr swc wrecked havoc on my hand. I've since replaced the grips with checkered version and added a T-Grip.

Haven't got to the range with it but I hope it will tame even +P 158 gr lhp FBI loads.

Your experiences with T-Grips on your J frames? Is it that much an improvement over the old time standard stock ("splinter" grips)? Do they help in taming recoil?
 
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My brief experience with magnas and a T-grip was that it didn't really affect felt recoil, but it did give me a little better control. It didn't twist in my hand as much. My experience was brief because I didn't like the space from the front of the magnas to the front of the T-grip. I now use a PGS Hideout grip which has similar dimensions, but are continous all the way around.

Some people add a Hogue Handall Jr. over both the adapter and grip, installed upside down. I tried it in hand, but not shooting. I didn't really like the way it felt.

Keep in mind that people experience recoil differently. It didn't work so great for me, in that regard, but it might for you. You won't really know until you try.

Hope that helps.
 
I love the T grip adapter with magnas on all my model 38's.

I don't shoot +p ammo in them, or anything. Standard pressure ammo works just fine.
 
IMHO unless you are going to install a set of custom made grips made exactly to your hands specifications, a Tyler T Grip will improve the grip most of the time for most people. I've used them on almost every Revolver I own except for the ones with custom made grips. I have purchased most of them years ago when Tyler was a more reliable Company, but any purchased now I get on line - since I get them in a few days. There are still many out there NIB or ANIB for sale. Just make SURE you order the correct one!

BTW, it's probably more important to install T Grip on a light-weight than on a standard weight J Frame due to the more violent recoil and jump.
 
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For me, and perhaps for many others, a Tyler is NOT about recoil control but about trigger finger placement and aligning the sights. In fact, I had to remove the Tyler from my 642 with M36 Magnas because my middle finger was getting rapped. It is useful, however, on a square-butt 37 or any steel J. Aluminum is too light, IMO, for 158 gr +P. Some folks, however, tolerate it.
 
I don't like magnas and the Tyler T on a J Frame as they do nothing for recoil. I do like them on K frames. On J frames I prefer either Uncle Mikes Boot grips or Pachmayr Compacs.
 
I keep magnas w/a T grip on my J frames that get carried. I do practice w/the gun set up that way and it does help w/follow-up shot control.
 
If you want less recoil, get a steel-framed gun or shoot lighter loads. A T-grip will do nothing to lessen recoil -- but it WILL greatly increase your ability to control the recoil. You'll get even better control by installing a longer grip, like a S&W "banana-type" grip or a Hogue, but the T-grip is a fine compromise that gives better control without appreciably increasing bulk or weight.
 
Let's review; you have a small, lightweight revolver and you stoke it with the hottest ammo it will safely take. You get a lot of (objectionable) recoil. Does that just about sum it up? Seems to me you need a heavier gun or lighter recoiling ammo, but what do I know?

I shot some FBI +P loads through my Baby Chiefs Special just to see what would happen, and although I wouldn't do it on a regular basis, and it can be done, I wouldn't suggest it. The Laws of Physics are generally not subject to repeal.

Froggie
 
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