Takedown lever on M&P 45

GK, Hows that 325TR coming....

Also, I'm the one that found and wrote about the "fix" for the TDL.. If you do a search, I posted it up here and also on M-P bulletin board. It really is very easy, only takes a few minutes to a 1\2 hour. IMO, not worth sending it back...
 
I'll be talking about the 325TR on the same call. Been too busy to call in the last couple of weeks. But now, two new S&W handguns, two problems. Hmmmmm.

I did actually start to file the TDL, but not enough to fix it. I could do more, but then I thought... if every M&P owner with this problem either accepts it, or fixes it themselves, how will S&W know they've got a problem? So I held up on filing it more, lest I give S&W cause to blame me. From the little I did, the detent seemed to work slightly better, if I assisted it by pressing the end of the guide rod toward the barrel, to firmly seat the end of the spring on the TDL edge.

I must say I agree with you that I'd prefer not to send it back for a small issue I might be able to fix myself. But if I file it down and it's not fixed, then S&W has an out. And I'm not giving them one. I wonder if a new TDL purchased as a part would have the same nub?

I looked closely at the TDLs on our Sigs and FNs, and although their TDL designs are different, they are identical in function. Perhaps that's why they stay PUT!

I'll post up on both Jack when I have resolutions. For better or worse.
 
My 9fs just started doing this and I have found that if you lightly pinch the guide rod towards the barrel it will stay down. At least it works on mine and someone here told me to try it when I asked the same question a while back.
 
My M&P 45 is going back to S&W. I took it to my FFL yesterday. We compared operation with the other M&Ps in his case, and they DON'T behave like mine! The TDL stays put in all cases.

I noted that his other M&Ps have the same nub on their TDLs as mine; in some cases the nub is larger. My FFL also agreed with me that my slide is riding out of alignment (high) on the frame. We can see through a gap at the barrel; we see daylight between the coils of the guide rod spring. NG. And the guide rods on his other M&Ps have a different motion than mine when the TDL is manipulated.

I will do my best to determine exactly what S&W finds and fixes to make the TDL behave as it should.
 
I own several m&p's in various calibers. I was having the TDL problem with one of mine. I swapped levers with another one of my nines and the problem was cured. I am just going to order a new one from S&W.
 
My 9C does NOT stay down, which I find a bit annoying, but there's worse things it could (or could not) be doing, so...
 
Older thread, but my problem fixed on just purchased used PD (.40 - $315.00) from Bud's on line. Many thanks To turbo38gn for below info;

"There was a little bump in the middle of the lever that was black, that means it was there from it's birth and colored over. After removing the slide, remove the TDL by turning it forward past the roll pin, then remove out the left side. You may be able to turn the lever over the roll pin or you may have to drive the pin in about an 1\8th of an inch and the TDL will turn easily forward then just pull the lever out. In the middle of the flat on the forward edge there is a little nub there, file it off so the surface is flat, install and your TDL should stay down much better. The spot we need to pay attention to is where the recoil guide rod makes contact with the TDL."
 
Last edited:
Older thread, but my problem fixed on just purchased used PD (.40 - $315.00) from Bud's on line. Many thanks To turbo38gn for below info;

"There was a little bump in the middle of the lever that was black, that means it was there from it's birth and colored over. After removing the slide, remove the TDL by turning it forward past the roll pin, then remove out the left side. You may be able to turn the lever over the roll pin or you may have to drive the pin in about an 1\8th of an inch and the TDL will turn easily forward then just pull the lever out. In the middle of the flat on the forward edge there is a little nub there, file it off so the surface is flat, install and your TDL should stay down much better. The spot we need to pay attention to is where the recoil guide rod makes contact with the TDL."

Nice to see it worked for u.. I figured the vid would help.. but after reading my post... it's a pretty simple fix.. I wonder how GKDoll made out..
 
Odd timing but I just picked up my police trade in .40 yesterday and have the same behavior. I Googled it and this thread came up. I did pull the TDL and saw the burr / nub that is being discussed. I thought about calling CS just to see if they would send me a new TDL and then still try the fix listed above on the one I have. To me it's not a big deal but it is awkward to have to keep it down. If I call I'll post an update.
 
Odd timing but I just picked up my police trade in .40 yesterday and have the same behavior. I Googled it and this thread came up. I did pull the TDL and saw the burr / nub that is being discussed. I thought about calling CS just to see if they would send me a new TDL and then still try the fix listed above on the one I have. To me it's not a big deal but it is awkward to have to keep it down. If I call I'll post an update.

Once the TDL was out I don't think I spent more than a minute with a sharp file. Done. G/L
 
THis is a post I made back in March I think... if the TDL snapping back bothers you... this is what I found and what I did to fix it.

TDL = take down lever

Ok, well I feel pretty comfident about my assessment of the TDL snapping back. I like not having to be a contortionist to take my M&P down. I just picked up my new M&P40c a few weeks ago, the trigger sucks in Mass.. we in Mass know what that's like... I ordered my Apec trigger kit a month ago so it's on the bench ready to install tonite. I want to just update my findings from previous M&P's I own that do not need to have me hold the TDL while removing the upper slide assembly, as I stated, I had one that the TDL wouldn't stay down and fixed it, well my new 40c won't stay down so I checked it out, found a little high spot easily seen before removing the TDL, filed it down and my TDL stays down just fine now!! There was a little bump in the middle of the lever that was black, that means it was there from it's birth and colored over. After removing the slide, remove the TDL by turning it forward past the roll pin, then remove out the left side. You may be able to turn the lever over the roll pin or you may have to drive the pin in about an 1\8th of an inch and the TDL will turn easily forward then just pull the lever out. In the middle of the flat on the forward edge there is a little nub there, file it off so the surface is flat, install and your TDL should stay down much better. The spot we need to pay attention to is where the recoil guide rod makes contact with the TDL.
hope this makes sense and helps, let me know.
__________________

I know this post is getting old, but I wanted to give some input as the same issue came up with my 45C. Removing the bump is the correct answer. S&W sent me a new take down lever after I read about the bump removal. It worked, and now I have a back up take down lever without a bump.
 
Back
Top